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 Post subject: Camber
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2001 1:34 pm 
Sorry I didn't really have much time to make my reply to Bolivar's question as clear as I would have liked. The following is an extract from a page I'm building.<br><br><br>I found a company in Canada called Aligncraft who sold camber bolts, these are 8mm diameter bolts with a little 12mm diameter cam in them. And they're cheap! They replace the top bolt (12mm diameter shank, 17mm head) which secures the strut to the upright. They work beautifully and give +/- 1 degree camber change.<br>I soon discovered I was still tearing the tyres up when competing and, needed more -ve camber than the -1 deg bolt could give. I looked enviously at the TAS adjustable ball joints but, since I could barely afford to put petrol in the car, there was no chance of affording the £150 for a set.<br>Sitting down and staring at the suspension it was obvious, even to me, that "all I needed to do" was alter the point where the strut bolted to the upright. Now, it may be blindingly simple if you're an engineer, but, I'm not ! (and I freely admit, not the sharpest tool in the box), so it took me a while to see what was staring me in the face. Doofus that I am, I spent ages trying to draw out plans for some sort of jig, until I realised I had all I needed, bar a location method. That turned out to be only one small hole and a pin (or a drill bit in my case).<br>I stripped down the struts, removing the springs and inserts, sandlasted the mounting points. I got an old upright, bolted it to a strut and set the camber bolt to -1. I then put the whole lot in the drillling machine and, drilled a small hole through the strut mounting bracket and the upright. A vise and handrill would work just as well. Loosening the bolts and removing the camber bolt, I then pushed a spare drill bit through the holes in the bracket and upright. This showed how "misaligned" the hole was at -1 deg. I marked where I would have to add metal, easy to see on the blasted surface, stripped it down and added some metal with a MIG welder. Ground flat, I could then reassemble with a lower bolt and the drill (or pin). I then carefully removed all excess metal using a Tungsten carbide cutter in a handpiece. A quick ream with a 12mm drill bit and I now had a strut which was permanently set to 1 degree -ve camber. Adding the camber bolt again now let me adjust back to 0 deg, or -2 deg. (in practice it's actually -2.25 deg, since the movement is in an arc, it's not cumulative in a linear fashion.. maybe not the best explanation, but I don't have the language to express it more clearly.)<br>As I say, simple and blindingly obvious, (not!).<br><br>Hope that helps.<br><br>Iain<br><br>P.S.<br>I would NOT recommend trying to use -2 deg on a road car, SCARY as ****.<br>Bugger, I've only just noticed the email me notice at the bottom of the form. What a dickhead. <p></p><i></i>

 Post subject: Re: Camber
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2001 5:30 pm 
Iain, so basically what you did was to alter where the<br>lower strut hole is located right?<br>ie. on the bottom of the strut, there are 2 holes<br>where the strut bolts to the steering knuckle...<br>and, you 'slotted' the lower (upper?) hole in the strut<br>thus creating a slot, and then you filled in the other<br>side of that slot so you were left with a hole and<br>not a slot...<br>Right?<br>(now all of us are waiting for you to tell us how to<br>alter the rear camber!) ;-)<br><br><br>Darryl <p></p><i></i>

 Post subject: Re: Camber
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2001 10:43 am 
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Iain,<br><br>The bolts that aligncraft sell are actually ingalls and they have 2 12mm bolt. The one that you have is 3541 wish give you a range of 1 degree - and +. They also have a 3541PR that give you a range of 2 degree - and +.<br><br>You can check this at the ingalls site, <!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href=""></a><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END--><br><br>The tas adjustable ball joins are actually camber plates? the one that go on top of the strut mount?<br><br>Bolivar <p></p><i></i>

 Post subject: Re: Camber
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2001 3:28 pm 
Hi Darryl, <br>Sort of, the camber bolt should always go through the uppermost of the two strut holes, that way most of the load is still carried through a 12mm bolt, the lower one. I welded it up first so I only had to cut metal once. It's actually easier to visualise if the parts are in front of you and you read what I did.<br><br>At the rear you can slot the holes for the shock studs, that would allow a small amount of camber change. I plan to do that soon, with a threaded adjuster to lock it in place. I normally use a welded-in strut brace (a bloody great tube welded between the towers! ), so I'll attach the adjusters to that. It means the lateral suspension loads should be passing into the adjuster, rather than relying on the frictional qualities of two 8mm fastners. The adjuster will consist of two brackets in 3mm steel, one drilled to accept the strut spacing, one welded to the bracing tube. Connected via a piece of 10mm threaded rod, LH thread at one end, RH thread at the other, Hex nut welded in the middle (and on the brackets). Turning the nut one way will screw the adjuster in, (more negative), turning the other will screw it out, (less negative).<br><br>Yes Bolivar, they are Ingalls. They also make a really good yet inexpensive camber gauge.<br> I didn't want to try the +-2 bolts as Hillclimbs have very little, if any, run-off areas, so the suspension can take a real battering. I have eventually bent one of the 8mm camber bolts, but it involved hitting an earth kerb at about 40mph hard enough to knock one side of the car almost clean in the air. As it is, it's only fractionally bent, knocking the camber back 0.4 deg. I'll certainly be buying some more to replace the present ones.<br>The TAS modification is to the suspension arm, the welded in ball and socket joint is machined off and replaced with a bolted on spherical joint, A threaded section allows the length to be adjusted in/out to alter the camber. A pin goes through the joint to locate the upright. Obviously everything can be replaced individually if/when failure/wear occurs.<br>I think I have a picture somewhere, I'll try and look it out.<br><br>Iain <p></p><i></i>

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