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 Post subject: Drilled shocks
PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 5:21 pm 
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Well, the last minute thrash for tomorrow is about halfway done. All 4 struts have been drilled and drained of every drop of old oil in them. I have 30W bardahl synthetic fork oil ready to go into them. I drilled a 3/16" hole 1" below the weld on the bottom of the rear struts, and 1 " below the middle weld on the front struts. My fluid levels are as follow:

front strut #1- 195mL
front strut #2- 205mL
rear strut #1- 240mL
rear strut #2- 230mL

Those are the final numbers I am going with for each of the struts. I am cutting one coil off of each spring, which should lower the car approximatley 1" (no further for fear of rubbing). Any suggestions? I will look periodically at this post throughout the rest of the day to see if anybody has any idea's/thoughts about what I am doing. Tomorrow will truly tell how well this modification works.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 5:37 pm 
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not sure about where you drill the shocks .. you should have been drilling a hole ~1/2 - 3/4" from the TOP of the shock body and plan to weld over the hole when you've re-filled them or use a very short sheet metal screw so you don't puncture the inner tube.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 6:16 pm 
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Well, I know I drilled into the reservoir at the very least. I did not go through the second wall of the struts. I think I SHOULD be ok. I'll post pics around 7 o'clock-ish. I plan to weld over the holes, as I have access to a welder. Wish me luck everybody, I just picked up a syringe and the fork oil is going in.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2005 12:30 am 
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I drilled mine into the seals first attempt. The second was over an inch down. I don't think it matters too much as long as you drill the resevior and fill it with the right amount of oil.

It seems to me that the stock struts have crappy seals especially the rears.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2005 1:25 am 
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which struts were you re-oiling, this mod was meant for the oem gt struts.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2005 1:36 am 
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Are you asking me or metropwr? I'm not stupid enough to drill into gas charged shocks :lol:

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This makes me wanna hurt someone, really bad. Where's Hitempguy, he's expendable
CJDavE wrote:
You have a girlfriend? :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2005 3:29 am 
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HiTempguy wrote:
I plan to weld over the holes, as I have access to a welder. Wish me luck everybody, I just picked up a syringe and the fork oil is going in.

Good luck trying to weld a shock filled with oil.

If the hole you drilled is below the spring area you can simply use a hose clamp with a thin strip of old inner tube,
or neoprene is better, placed under the hose clamp.
Tightened down just snugly is good for over 100psi, imho.

However you fill the shock (I place it in a pan of oil and pump the shock) make sure it is not filled to the point where oil comes out when the shock shaft is fully compressed.
If it is full of oil the shock might hydraulically lock up when it gets hot.
Its best to leave a few ml's less than full for air expansion.

If you must have "gas filled" shocks then one way is to braze a Schrader valve body in the middle of the hose clamp and put a small hole in the rubber under it.
You can them pump it up all you want.

The main benefit of 'gas shocks' is to reduce cavitation in rough usage (like motocross or Baja).
Hey, Swift Scrambles or Metro Motorcross - a new sport?

Good luck,
Pres

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2005 9:33 am 
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I drilled my factory struts. You can weld the strut when it full of oil. Wipe the hole down with brake parts cleaner tilt the strut to an apropriate angle and weld.

When I drilled the seals I didn't really chech wher I was drilling. I just drilled a hole 3/4" down from the top of the strut body.

I can tell you aftermarket springs just don't get along with factory struts. I didn't like driving a pogo-stick around.

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 Post subject: Re: Drilled shocks
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2005 11:04 pm 
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HiTempguy wrote:
I have 30W bardahl synthetic fork oil ready to go into them.

30W oil seems awfully heavy viscosity.
The 'std' valving in most auto shocks is designed for a light (around 5w) oil.

If you are trying to stiffen them up, consider increasing to, perhaps, a 7.5 or 10 weight oil.
(mixing different weights- like 50%5W & 50%10W- works just fine)

Changing oil weight later on is one of the benefits of NOT welding up the holes you made.
Securing (weld or clamp) a Schrader valve body makes changing oil alot easier.

HiTempguy wrote:
My fluid levels are as follow:
front strut #1- 195mL, front strut #2- 205mL, rear strut #1- 240mL,rear strut #2- 230mL

Why different amounts of oil in identical (front or rear) shock bodies?
It seems you would want to put the same amount of oil in the same strut.
(maybe have different viscosity oil in front vs rear shock - more load on front)

Whatever,
Good luck with it.
Pres


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2005 11:18 pm 
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I ran 30W. The problem it seems with stock struts is there is no compression dampening or not enough.

If anything I think the rear should be dampened heavier than the front. I can't even begin to explain it.

You can average the amounts of oil for the front and rears. Being exactly on is not that important as long as you don't over-fill.

The reason why I welded is because it is very easy for me to drill a new hole and weld it shut again. I think I can modify a pair in under 30 min. start to completion. Welding is the fool proof way of doing it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 12:48 pm 
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Basically what metro said about the 30w oil. I am following Murr's recommendations on this project, seeing as how he has done it many times.

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GeoZukiGTi wrote:
This makes me wanna hurt someone, really bad. Where's Hitempguy, he's expendable
CJDavE wrote:
You have a girlfriend? :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:47 pm 
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Metropwr wrote:
The reason why I welded is because it is very easy for me to drill a new hole and weld it shut again. I think I can modify a pair in under 30 min. start to completion. Welding is the fool proof way of doing it.


Must be fun to have all those metal particles from the drilling to float around in the shock body. Don't tell me you are 100% positive all the particles are going out will oil. :razz:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:50 pm 
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Stock struts are crap anyways. No compression dampening. Got's to get me some Koni's.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 11:43 am 
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Just reviving this thread to see how all your modded struts ended up, long term?
I was looking at doing a set soon, and am looking for a little input.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 11:48 am 
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In all honesty, my project stalled as I tried to figure out specifically what I wanted out of the suspension. I have the struts drilled and I started to fill them, but I drilled them in what could be termed an "incorrect" place, so filling them is difficult. I recently got a screaming deal on a set of KYB's, but I am looking at finishing the struts up soon anyways (mabye throw them on my fathers car?)

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GeoZukiGTi wrote:
This makes me wanna hurt someone, really bad. Where's Hitempguy, he's expendable
CJDavE wrote:
You have a girlfriend? :shock:

HiTemp Inc. ....... taking over the world one Sprint Turbo and Swift GTi at a time.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 11:49 am 
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Well, from seeing the word ' dampening' so many often in this thread, I assume it ended up all wet. :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 11:50 am 
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I'd really be interested in doing this.
Where would be the best place to drill, then?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 1:22 pm 
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About an 1 1/4"- 1 1/2" from the top of the struts is the best place to drill.

Long term of the stock struts sux, especially on the rears. My seals failed rather quickly after I changed the oil. It seems that the stock rear strus don't last long anyways. My front gave up shortly after the rears.

I got Sensa-craps and they seemed to do the job. Although the front struts seemed way too soft compared to the rears. Perhaps the rears are from a GTi since I found them like new at the junk yard.

Looking back it would of been way better to go with the KYB's from a GTi, that is if the valving is diferent.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:24 pm 
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I did this job over the weekend, using 20W oil, and it woked great.
To keep the chips from going in, I used a strong magnet as I was drilling, then tapping the drain/fill holes, near the hole, and did all this before draining the oil. Hopefully the oil carried out any small chips that may have made it in. I refilled with 20W, pumped them up a few times, and it worked perfect. The difference, on the bench is amazing. I can't wait to get them on the car.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:05 pm 
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Could you please post a pic where u drilled the front struts?




thanx
Steve

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 9:23 pm 
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suprf1y wrote:
I did this job over the weekend, using 20W oil, and it woked great.
To keep the chips from going in, I used a strong magnet as I was drilling...

I was thinking about the magnet idea myself, another techique would be to magnetized the drill bit itself (use one of those screwdriver magnetizer thingies). Keeping the drill sharp is a good idea too. It's harder to get shavings inside if your only waste is two corkscrew ribbons of metal. :wink:

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 Post subject: Re: Drilled shocks
PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 4:00 am 
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Does anyone have pictures of where to drill the struts?

Any long term results superfly?


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 Post subject: Re: Drilled shocks
PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 5:22 am 
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im curious as well, rears are bad and need replacing

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 Post subject: Re: Drilled shocks
PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 8:07 am 
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ehos wrote:
Does anyone have pictures of where to drill the struts?

Any long term results superfly?


Long term, no problems.
The car is lowered and working fine.
I think I drilled them near the top of the body, just low enough not to hit the seal.

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 Post subject: Re: Drilled shocks
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:27 am 
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Superf1y:

I know I am reviving a seriously old post here, but I pulled some extra struts out of the junkyard with some Mk4 springs that I plan to cut and use to lower my car, a mk3 GT. Given that fooling with "phonis" doesn't cost much I was going to try it on the front struts before I go do the sensible thing and buy some new KYB's.

Dattman says that viscosity of fork oil is relatively meaningless, and that I should use some "centistrokes per something" measurement that varies between different manufacturers of fork oil. With that in mind, since you got good results I'd love to know which 20wt oil you were using, if you remember.

Maybe I'll just use Mazzola =)

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