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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:17 pm 
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Location: Atlanta,GA Havana,Cuba
i have 95+ springs 0n my 94 geo-convertion to gti and i cut 1 1/2 frt 1rear the rear is a lil lower but the front is two high!

so go
1.front 2 coils
2.rear 1 1/2

Note:it handle's waaaaaaaaaaayy better in turns real quick steering response!

and it doesn't bounce around

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 Post subject: Now I know
PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 10:30 pm 
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Location: Lynnwood, WA
With this comment, easy goes, thanks for advice all of You; and I know is not the right place, but what about calipers? Thank You again.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:20 pm 
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Location: Atlanta,GA Havana,Cuba
well if you have metro hub's i don't know if honda civic calipers will fit!
they will if you have swift hub's i seen in the junkyard for cheap if i go this week i can get them

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 Post subject: I'm afraid
PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 10:48 pm 
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Location: Lynnwood, WA
Reading all post I start afraid that not, I pull apart the whole strut, I mean shock absorber, spring, rotor and caliper from a 95 swift -obviuosly not a GT-and the big question is: If I switch the whole part, could works? or just improve the suspension part; ebay show the sloted, drilled rotors for 89-00 swift models as the same and I understand it's jus one part, I'm not sure if is on sale in auto parts shop, I'll check tomorrow. BTW, I'm runnig 15" Enkei RP01, so, room is not a problem.

Thanks again.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 12:06 am 
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Location: Atlanta,GA Havana,Cuba
yeah they will work just find get the lower control arm also they are longer
and the ball joint is different from mk3

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 11:28 pm 
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Location: PA
Well, next weekend i should be getting the Vert front spindles. Aren't the front spindles the same as the swifts?
With that in mind-can i just get vert struts and put the 95+ springs on them? I don't want to bother moving the brake hose location tab on the 95 struts.
Then, to lower, just cut 1-1/2 coils up front and about 1 coil in the rear. maybe 2f and 1-1/2 rear....

Oh, should i also be getting the rear struts and spindles from the vert?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 7:54 pm 
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Location: PA
Ok, please tell me i got the right ones....i got springs from a 96 or 97 metro 2-dr to put on my 91. Did i get the wrong ones? I brought them home and they look the same to me.......PLEASE let me know if i got the wrong year springs or what.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 8:52 pm 
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You got the right ones.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 8:19 am 
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Location: PA
ok, so them being longer applied to comparison to the MK1....but why do they lok the same as my MK2?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 10:59 am 
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Thr Mk1's are totally different.
The 96/97 should be longer than your Mk2, and raise the car about 1", from what I recall.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:09 pm 
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Location: PA
Well, if they raise the car about an inch; that's no problem because i think i'm going to cut them to lower it a bit. Anyone have the problem where the front sits higher like the car is launching all the time?

Speaking of heat-can you heat the springs in an oven at 400* and not change the characteristics?


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 Post subject: Re: heated
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 9:14 pm 
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Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
larry griffith wrote:
i've heated the coils on a few of my Geo's . if done right at the base of the coil . then it will drop down about 1 inch onto the seat. this drops the car about 4 inches . the trick is to keep the rest of the coil from getting to hot. heat a small spot on the coil and spray a fine mist of water on as soon as the spring drops.
once the 2nd coil sits down onto the base coil it can't sag later on.


Has anyone else tried heating coil springs to lower the car instead of removing and chopping the springs? I was going to attempt this trick, but I don't want to ruin the springs either.

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 12:38 am 
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Don't do it.
You are far better off cutting them.

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 6:24 pm 
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Location: Atlanta,GA Havana,Cuba
cut don't heat it will distort the metal,i did that on my mk1 1985 sprint back in the day to lower it.

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 9:04 pm 
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Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Well good thing I asked here first then................

*/me puts torches away*

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  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
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  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 11:37 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 19, 2008 5:22 am
Posts: 38
Location: INDIA
i cut my rear springs... 1 coil in each spring by arc welding...!! tot i totally wasted my stock springs...
after installation... they were pretty good... the back is abt 1 inch lower than the front..
(used to be 1 inch higher than the front)
im guessing more of the weight is distributed to the back...
handles better in cornering...
ride bumpiness is similar to what it used to be... :)


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 10:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2008 12:41 am
Posts: 170
Location: Oregon
I cut the springs on my Mk4 sedan with a small cutoff wheel. I cut 1.25 coils off the front springs and 1.5 coils from the rear. This lowered the car nicely. I also removed 1/3 from the front bump stop and 1/2 of the rear stop. The car rides a little stiffer and you can hit the stops if driven aggressively. I might remove a little more bump stop. I think that the car sits as it should.


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8_08 196.jpg
8_08 196.jpg [ 24.59 KIB | Viewed 6482 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:52 pm 
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Location: Canada
Last year I replaced the driver's CV axle. This year, I replaced the driver's CV axle. That's when I realized that the springs were cut, and because of this, the springs can't entirely do their job, and my boots can hit my (dunno what you call the thing that has 2 bolts that you put the front wheel onto that holds the whole front end together).

Sucks. Now I have to nurse my car over speed bumps in parking lots etc, railway tracks scare me, etc etc etc.

But good luck with lowering your car an inch or two.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 7:02 am 
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kaboler wrote:
Last year I replaced the driver's CV axle. This year, I replaced the driver's CV axle. That's when I realized that the springs were cut, and because of this, the springs can't entirely do their job, and my boots can hit my (dunno what you call the thing that has 2 bolts that you put the front wheel onto that holds the whole front end together).

Sucks. Now I have to nurse my car over speed bumps in parking lots etc, railway tracks scare me, etc etc etc.

But good luck with lowering your car an inch or two.


How about a picture - or if you like use paint or something to mark one of the ones in my album (there are some that show the front strut assembly on the second page) - the only thing I can think of under there matching that description is the knuckle, and I don't see how cut springs can cause the CV boot to hit that.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 10:46 am 
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There are people who have dropped their Swifts 3" without having this CV problem. Mine was down almost 2" for years without any issues whatsoever.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 10:03 pm 
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Location: Abbotsford, BC
me and my metro wrote:
I cut the springs on my Mk4 sedan with a small cutoff wheel. I cut 1.25 coils off the front springs and 1.5 coils from the rear. This lowered the car nicely. I also removed 1/3 from the front bump stop and 1/2 of the rear stop. The car rides a little stiffer and you can hit the stops if driven aggressively. I might remove a little more bump stop. I think that the car sits as it should.


Could you please clarify, I don't understand 'hit the stops' ?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 10:12 am 
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1995Firefly4dr wrote:
me and my metro wrote:
I cut the springs on my Mk4 sedan with a small cutoff wheel. I cut 1.25 coils off the front springs and 1.5 coils from the rear. This lowered the car nicely. I also removed 1/3 from the front bump stop and 1/2 of the rear stop. The car rides a little stiffer and you can hit the stops if driven aggressively. I might remove a little more bump stop. I think that the car sits as it should.


Could you please clarify, I don't understand 'hit the stops' ?


There are rubber bump stops at the top of the shock/strut - these are normally at the very top of the shaft against the upper mount. If you fit cut or lowered springs and do not cut the rubber bump stops, you can get the body of the shock/strut (which is the part that moves up and down) to strike the rubber bump stops at full compression.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 11:15 am 
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fordem wrote:
1995Firefly4dr wrote:
me and my metro wrote:
I cut the springs on my Mk4 sedan with a small cutoff wheel. I cut 1.25 coils off the front springs and 1.5 coils from the rear. This lowered the car nicely. I also removed 1/3 from the front bump stop and 1/2 of the rear stop. The car rides a little stiffer and you can hit the stops if driven aggressively. I might remove a little more bump stop. I think that the car sits as it should.


Could you please clarify, I don't understand 'hit the stops' ?


There are rubber bump stops at the top of the shock/strut - these are normally at the very top of the shaft against the upper mount. If you fit cut or lowered springs and do not cut the rubber bump stops, you can get the body of the shock/strut (which is the part that moves up and down) to strike the rubber bump stops at full compression.


for instance how much do the rubber stops need to be cut if the springs are to be cut ?

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2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 7:56 pm 
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Location: Oregon
I think I will remove another 1/3 of the front stop and another 1/4 of the rear. When it hits the stops it will make the cd player skip. I still like the lowered car. It is about 3" lower than stock in back and about 2" lower in front. Cold weather has my fuel mileage down to 49 even with the xfi cam and 10 degree gear. :(

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Swift bumpers and taillights :D
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 9:02 am 
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I cut exactly one coil front and rear on my 98 Metro four cylinder. The back dropped more than the front, looked a lot like GEOPAT's black Metro with the H&R springs. The back end crashed heavily and the exhaust system hit a little on big bumps. Got another set of rear springs and cut 3/4 of a coil. They're much better, not very noticeable cosmetically, but a lot less dramatic when driving. First picture is with one coil cut all around. Second picture is with one coil front, 3/4 coil rear, sorry about the shadow. Don't have a matching picture for the stock springs, but this three quarter view should give you idea of what it was before I started.

One coil cut
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By donmccorkle

One in front, 3/4 in back
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By donmccorkle

Stock
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By donmccorkle

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