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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 7:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:27 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Springfield, Oregon
jonathan180iq wrote:
http://www.speedstash.com/wheelguide.html

Just keeping it current :)

For those that don't read the whole posts, our cars need:
-4x114.3 bolt pattern
-60mm Center Bore (minimum)
-12mm lugs
-Base model 2DR Hatch needs to upgrade to 12mm lugs (from 10) or buy expanding nuts


The website you list shows that a 1988 Honda Accord 4-cyl has the right rims (except for the center bore being larger). The large list posted earlier shows that 1990 Accord and up except V6 will fit. What is the real answer? The reason I ask is that I have a set of Honda rims.

Also, do I have to get spacers for the center bore if I get 13-inch rims with larger bores?

Lastly, I am thinking of drilling out the hubs and installing 12.5mm studs on them to accommodate the larger lug lands on 13-inch rims once this winter season is over. Do you think that will compromise the hubs?

Thanks for the great info!


Oregon Jim

Springfield, OR

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1990 Geo Metro Xfi
1995 Ford Escort Wagon
1997 Buick LeSabre
1994 Chevy Z71 pickup (250k miles)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 5:49 pm 
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Location: Gloucester, Virginia
Maybe I got lost in the search, but would a -9 offset work?
I found a good deal on a set of wheels I like but they are a 14x7 with a -9 offset.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 1:14 pm 
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Location: Maple Ridge, B.C. Canada
Hi there everyone.
I'm a new member and I own a 1990 Sprint Convertible. I'm trying to clarify something. Are the wheel bolt patterns the same on the verts as the hatchbacks? Are the studs and stud holes the same? I have the chance to pick up some factory GT alloy wheels, and concerned about a direct bolt on. Thanks in advance!


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 2:09 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
the verts have the same bolt pattern as any metro or swift. 12mm x 1.25 threads and 114.3mm or 4.5".

http://bolt-patterns.com/Geo-Bolt-Patterns.htm

the only thing that i have run into is that sometimes the stud length, being fairly short for steel rims, can cause problems with the fitment of some cast aluminum rims. be sure that you have enough length to get good thread engagement on the nuts. a couple of threads only won't work out.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd. - 1992 White Suzuki Swift GT

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 1:20 pm 
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Location: Gloucester, Virginia
Anyone running 14x5.5 wheels on a MK4/5? Looking to get a set of "mini-lite" style wheels in that size.

Anyone know about offsets? they are listed as ET 22 for offset.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:23 pm 
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Posts: 161
Location: Texas
Ok, So I tried to find some tires today and came up short. Seems no one carries 155R12's anymore. Or anything in the R12 other than trailer tires. Which will not work.

I went to the local junk pile to see if I could find some wheels and tires for the one sprint they had. Saddly they were dry rotted to all hell. But found that they have like 10 metros lay'n around. Found 4 wheel and tire sets with the right bolt pattern and the tires are pretty much new. @ $26 a pop I may just go up to the 175/70R13 just so I can find tires.

My question is about the lugs listed earlier. I found some lugs on summitracing.com that say they are the 10mmx1.25. I'm just wondering what will work. There are two types I found and I am confused as to which ones to get. There is a bulge type lug (here:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-41117/) and a flange type (here:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DTG-952-27/) Which ones will work for the crossover from 12" to 13" rims?

If the flange are OK. Then i think autozone by my house has them in stock. For like 90 cents or something like that. If not I'll be ordering the bulge from summit racing for $30.

Please help! I need tires soon!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 11:07 pm 
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Location: Fort Irwin, CA
Check these 15" Acura Legend rims I got from the junkyard for $20 each:

Image

Here's the before:

Image

And from the right side before and after:

Image
Image

They are 45 offset and weigh 17.8lbs, which is heavy but not bad for $20. I painted mine black. As far as center ring adapters you would need 60.06 to 64.1 to use Honda rims, which nobody makes. I plan on having some made at a machine shop eventually but so far have no problems (I haven't driven 1000's of miles yet, just put them on yesterday) with vibration when centered carefully with the lug nuts.

I would really prefer 14x6 wheels but I would have to buy them new, and 15" opens up a whole new world of possible tires. I put Falken Ziex Ze 912s on mine for $56 each--anyone will tell you the Falkens are not the grippiest, but they are definitely the grippiest for less than half the price of Potenzas or Star Specs.

On a budget I think it would be hard to do better than 195/50R15 Falkens on Honda rims. If money was no object , I might do something silly like have 13X7 rims custom made and mount Hoosier race tires on them. I still might go back to my 14" steelies or try to find som 14" Tiburon wheels and put starspecs on them for track days instead, as the 15" wheels seem to have improved everything except braking over my previous set up--even acceleration because there is so much less wheelspin. Admittedly, the previous tires where GITI Chinese all-season touring. Not exactly autocross tires.

Edit: These wheels started rubbing at full lock in the front after lowering the car about an inch. I dialed in some toe out--no more rub. But it is that close.

Edit: More new shoes, September 2012:

Image
Image
Image

These are 13x5.5 offset 38 Konig Incidents. If you are in the market for new aftermarket wheels and either have a Metro or Swift GA or have done the CRX caliper swap http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1657&start=75#p407215 these only weigh 11lbs and are available at discount tire direct for $300 for the set, shipped. I have saved more than 24lbs in unsprung weight vs. the Acura wheels, lowered the cars CG, and they are the same width. The problem is finding good tires--the same Falken Ziex 912s are decent and available in 185/60R13, but I am pretty sure that's your only option in the U.S.

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Last edited by Teeth on Sat Sep 08, 2012 9:17 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 5:27 pm 
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Location: New York
Lovin' the 13" stock corolla rims :D


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 5:13 pm 
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Location: lisboa;Portugal
i got the 14x6 nissan primera gt rims
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:56 am 
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Location: pittsbrugh
honda prelude n honda accord rims will fit it thts where i got my rims

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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 11:56 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:27 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Springfield, Oregon
Hi Guys, Jim in Oregon again. Wore out another rear wheel bearing on my 1990 Geo Metro Xfi. The one that was on the hub had somehow gotten rusty, and of course that took it out. I put in a Chinese made $3.00 bearing, removing the inner seal and greasing the heck out of it (and the outer $16.00 one I got from another source). Made it about 1200 miles when it started to go bad again and is now howling and cracking at me.

Question: Can I replace the whole axle/spindle assembly with a later model Geo Metro set (both sides) with no adaptors? In other words, if I get a pair of complete spindle assemblies with hubs from a 1196 - 2000 Geo Metro, will they just bolt up? I am wondering if the fact that I am using 13-inch rims is causing the bearings to go out, and whether just moving over to rear spindle assemblies with hubs from a later model Geo that was DESIGNED for 13-inch will help.

Anyone?


Greetings from Springfield, OR

Jim

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1990 Geo Metro Xfi
1995 Ford Escort Wagon
1997 Buick LeSabre
1994 Chevy Z71 pickup (250k miles)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 7:49 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2012 7:30 am
Posts: 22
Location: UK
I think the universal wheel was never meant to be on the car, Swift that has 215/40/17 tyres fitted. you will have to watch out for the stud fittings and clearance of calipers.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:47 pm 
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Location: Fort Irwin, CA
Hub center bore question:

Most databases list the Swift hub bore as 60.1, while listing most Geo Metros as 59.6. That's not a huge difference, but it's odd as at least the base models of both cars are "identical". I just measured my 94 US market GT, and though I don't have measuring calipers so I had to eyeball a tape with mm increments, it appears to be closer to 59.6 as well. Which makes sense as I was able to test fit a Metro 13" on the car (CRX caliper swap to clear them, mostly, some scraping) with no apparent issues with the hub bore. Oddly, the same database http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern-Adapters-Wheel-Spacers-Finder.asp also lists an 88 Mazda 323 as 59.6mm, and I literally test fitted that wheel at the junkyard yesterday too and it didn't fit on a Metro--very, very, close, but not quite there.

The information is corroborated by this database http://lugpattern.net/ and this database http://www.wheelsupport.com/. I am kind of freaked out because I am planning to buy some aftermarket wheels today and I was hoping to get some proper hub centric rings with the package. I know from experience that they are not strictly necessary, but I'd love to get this right given the opportunity.

Can anyone confirm which measurements are correct for which cars?

Edit: Discount tire direct sent adapters for both 59.6 and 60.1 at no extra charge (great customer service!) so I'll post back when I get them on the car to clear this up definitively...

Edit: I have both adapters and only the 60.1 would fit on the car, but it's not that tight. Close enough to assist in centering the wheel, but certainly not taking any load--can be wiggled just a smidgin (.05mm?). So, given that Mk4 13" Geo wheels went right on my GT, I still don't know what the real answer to this question is. I have trouble believing that all Mk2/3 Swifts have 59.6 hub bores and all Mk2/3 Metros have 59.6. Given that the Mazda rims were very close but wouldn't fit, I am guessing that 59.6 is correct for Mazdas but is wrong for Metros and that both Swifts and Metros are actually closer to 60.05 or 60 even.

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1994 Swift GT chump special autocross warrior


suprf1y wrote:
You think you're special? We abuse all members equally.

Well, except the dumb ones, they get it worse.


Last edited by Teeth on Sat Sep 08, 2012 7:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 10:32 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 15, 2011 5:03 am
Posts: 194
Location: lake stevens, wa
OregonJim wrote:
Hi Guys, Jim in Oregon again. Wore out another rear wheel bearing on my 1990 Geo Metro Xfi. The one that was on the hub had somehow gotten rusty, and of course that took it out. I put in a Chinese made $3.00 bearing, removing the inner seal and greasing the heck out of it (and the outer $16.00 one I got from another source). Made it about 1200 miles when it started to go bad again and is now howling and cracking at me.

Question: Can I replace the whole axle/spindle assembly with a later model Geo Metro set (both sides) with no adaptors? In other words, if I get a pair of complete spindle assemblies with hubs from a 1196 - 2000 Geo Metro, will they just bolt up? I am wondering if the fact that I am using 13-inch rims is causing the bearings to go out, and whether just moving over to rear spindle assemblies with hubs from a later model Geo that was DESIGNED for 13-inch will help.

Anyone?


Greetings from Springfield, OR

Jim


I have been running 13s forever with no problems. To answer your question, you can swap mk4/5 to 2/3.

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00 swift 2dr turbo 1.3 5spd 4.10. dd
93 geo metro with 96 1.3 5spd swap turboed at 5psi. roommates.
12 ford focus. Wife's. 50mpgs @ 35mph 6th gear.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 10:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 1:19 am
Posts: 108
Location: tampa florida
Teeth wrote:
Hub center bore question:

Most databases list the Swift hub bore as 60.1, while listing most Geo Metros as 59.6. That's not a huge difference, but it's odd as at least the base models of both cars are "identical". I just measured my 94 US market GT, and though I don't have measuring calipers so I had to eyeball a tape with mm increments, it appears to be closer to 59.6 as well. Which makes sense as I was able to test fit a Metro 13" on the car (CRX caliper swap to clear them, mostly, some scraping) with no apparent issues with the hub bore. Oddly, the same database http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern-Adapters-Wheel-Spacers-Finder.asp also lists an 88 Mazda 323 as 59.6mm, and I literally test fitted that wheel at the junkyard yesterday too and it didn't fit on a Metro--very, very, close, but not quite there.

The information is corroborated by this database http://lugpattern.net/ and this database http://www.wheelsupport.com/. I am kind of freaked out because I am planning to buy some aftermarket wheels today and I was hoping to get some proper hub centric rings with the package. I know from experience that they are not strictly necessary, but I'd love to get this right given the opportunity.

Can anyone confirm which measurements are correct for which cars?

Edit: Discount tire direct sent adapters for both 59.6 and 60.1 at no extra charge (great customer service!) so I'll post back when I get them on the car to clear this up definitively...

Edit: I have both adapters and only the 60.1 would fit on the car, but it's not that tight. Close enough to assist in centering the wheel, but certainly not taking any load--can be wiggled just a smidgin (.05mm?). So, given that Mk4 13" Geo wheels went right on my GT, I still don't know what the real answer to this question is. I have trouble believing that all Mk2/3 Swifts have 59.6 hub bores and all Mk2/3 Metros have 59.6. Given that the Mazda rims were very close but wouldn't fit, I am guessing that 59.6 is correct for Mazdas but is wrong for Metros and that both Swifts and Metros are actually closer to 60.05 or 60 even.


my 93 metro is 60.1mm in the rear(drums), no hub center in front, actually is concave there. that said, hubcentric rings do nothing for you once the lugs are tight. not needed, dont matter, loose them. the rotor to hub bore fit is the one thats important. the rotor kinda needs to be centered.....and the wheel studs dont do a good enough job here.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 2:12 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2013 11:01 am
Posts: 4
Location: UK
The saab wheels, is it the aero wheels? The 3 spoke ones?
Image

Or these?
Image

Think they would look good on my swift and there's many being broke, but dont want to buy a set that doesnt fit.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 1:44 am 
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Location: Fort Irwin, CA
Image

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