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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:29 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2006 6:49 pm
Posts: 116
Location: Zagreb, Croatia
I currently have a coilover setup on yellow Konis:
Image

The problem with the setup is lack of suspension play at the desired ride height.

I was looking at Koni (http://www.koniracing.com/8611.cfm) and Bilstein inserts (http://ryanizer.blogspot.com/2008/07/bi ... -s14s.html), and currently leaning towards Bilstein (shorter body and possibly cheaper).

Bilstein R36-5022-H0 inserts from the top link would not work, I would have to machine my sleeves too thin to get them in.

Do you know of any thinner Bilstein inserts of the same body length or shorter?

Thanks!

--
Bye,
Tom


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:35 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2006 6:49 pm
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Location: Zagreb, Croatia
Made some progress (c/p-ed from http://driftninjaz.com/blogthis/?p=7 ):
Quote:
Here is a short breakdown of the bilstein numbering system
First letter -
B Shock absorber
P Cartridge
R Reconditioning set
S Sports kit
V Front/rear strut

Second letter – generally only on newer units
E Mono-tube system
M Manually adjustable
N Twin-tube system

If no second letter, first two numbers are the working piston size in mm-
22 -30 -36 -46 -60 -32 are the most common


Also found this insert catalog:
Attachment:
E4-WM5-Y189A01.PDF [62.04 KIB]
Downloaded 798 times


Which gives me some part numbers (not all are available) and the ODs, and some other numers :huh: (maybe the cutting / fitting measures as in page 3 of http://www.allshocks.com/instructions/R36-5022-H0%20instructions.pdf ???) .

Well, on to some more digging.

EDIT: the 'A' dimension in the catalog is not the OD of the insert, but the length on which to cut the original shock (as in the above PDF instructions) :oops:


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2005 12:48 am
Posts: 112
Location: Shawinigan, Qc
Thanks for sharing those information with us, this will be helpfull.

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SX4 JLX 07 (winter beater)
Swift GT-T 93 (summer beater)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 3:43 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 10:59 am
Posts: 76
Location: kelowna
please explain what your "desired ride height" is... i assume its quite low. i was hopeing to run almost the same setup at a very low height so any extra info would be nice


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 5:04 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 5:56 am
Posts: 2328
Location: Christchurch NZ, quake capital
Holy dead post Dattman :huh:

Measure between the center of your rim and the highest point of your front guard/fender, if that is less than 330mm then that is about as low as you can go on stock struts/koni sports, the shaft will need to be shortened or buy a shock/damper with a shorter body, ie koni 8611-1256 and get it installed into a strut, I think Murr used a VW golf mk1's strut housing.

Beware once you get get lower than about 310mm from centre of wheel to guard you will start to get bumpsteer and excessive camber change so there is little benefit to going much lower unless you can engineer out those issues.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 12:59 am
Posts: 1047
Location: Canby, OR
What dattman said x2.

You would end up having to make spacers for where the lower control arms attach to the spindle to fix your negative camber gain as the suspension compresses, as well as either moving the rack an pinion up in the body or making spacers for where the tie rods attach to the steering knuckle till the tie rod is parallel to the lower control arm. It's some work, but it is the only way to have a very low car and not be plagued by handling problems(assuming you started off with another, shorter body strut housing).

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 10:59 am
Posts: 76
Location: kelowna
Understood. Thanks for the replys. I'm aware of the bump steer issues as I've got an s13 on coilovers which sees simular issues.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 11:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:35 pm
Posts: 2433
Location: Regina, SK
But but the Ricer gods demand I drag the the floor on the pavement and think it's hot shit for suspension!

:cry:



hehehe.... :twisted:

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 1:47 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 10:59 am
Posts: 76
Location: kelowna
its all prefrence bud. thanks for the weak flame. saskamchewawn=ricer hub btw. take a look around. you couldnt put on a hill climb if you wanted too


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 1:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:35 pm
Posts: 2433
Location: Regina, SK
I know, and I just chuckle when I see these guys have to go 5km/h max over a speed bump or they hit a pothole and the whole car starts a dancing.

Meh... I learned how to drive while I lived in Kelowna for a few years, so really, I know all about the pro's and the con's to both sides. In a war of weak burns, your's is winning though... :wink:

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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