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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 1:47 pm 
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Location: Roumania
Hello people,
I need advice on what to consider in terms of brake pads for 2011.
I am racing in hillclimb events, short track mostly less than 4 km with the longest being 7km.
What pads should i consider ?
I need them to work from cold to moderate slightly high temps.
Right now i have the original brakes 231mm rotor with tokico caliper, but willing to swap them to honda only if the would fit under the 13'' wheels.
Please reply with your experience in terms of brake pads.
Brand/model codes would be of great help.

Thanks

P.S: This year i used ferodo pads in front and ferodo shoes in the rear. I also have a set of genuine suzuki shoes for the rear.
Are genuine pads better than most aftermarket pads?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 4:13 am 
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Location: Christchurch NZ, quake capital
I would suggest swapping the front rotors to mk2/3 ones, they are 250mm, you will need to get them machined down to about 246mm because your caliper mounting holes are a little closer to the hub and then you can use mk2 swift calipers, with the bigger rotors you should be able to use anything labeled 'Heavy duty' and the whole lot should fit inside 90% of 13 inch rims.

I am using Bendix 'heavy duty' pads, cheap, work great from cold and I have never overheated them even on the track.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 3:32 pm 
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Location: Roumania
bendix...hmm they are standard for renault right?
Renault has good brakes:)

I was thinking of motaquip..they supply pads for oem .
Any experience with that?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 2:19 pm 
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Location: Roumania
How about Suzuki geniune pads.
Are they better than aftermarket?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2010 2:08 am 
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Location: Christchurch NZ, quake capital
Rov it doesn't really matter, find a good supplier and see what they recommend, anything rated as 'heavy duty' will be fine, you only need something slightly better than standard.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:06 pm 
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Location: Trinidad
What about EBC "Red stuff ?" Hi performance pads for racing, superb grip from cold to hot, or "Green stuff"

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:40 pm 
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Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada
i've had Apex Kevlar pads on my old gt, they performed excellent.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 2:07 am 
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Red stuff would not be ideal, made for heavier higher hp cars, greenstuff would be fine but are really expensive, we are talking about a lightweight car going uphill on a run that will only take a minute or two, rear pads don't do much work but definitely have to work with zero heat.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:49 am 
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I wuz considering getting green stuff for my car but not sure if it would be "overkill" as you say. The car really is easy on the brakes.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 12:30 pm 
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Location: Trinidad
I know this thread has been cold for a while.

I have a MKIII Swift and needed to replace my rotors. I purchased the 250mm rotors.

I notice now though that the original rotors seem to be smaller, maybe 230mm. I Thought that the MKIII had 250mm rotors.

If it doesnt fit, what calipers should i get ??

Havent tried to install them yet....just got the package and trying to guage the difference by eye.

I supose I may have to machine them to get them to fit otherwise or grind some material off the caliper.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 3:24 am 
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The mk3 gti has 250mm rotors where as non gti versions are 232mm, sounds like you have non gti hubs, the caliper mounts are slightly closer to the center of the hub, you will need to get a few mm's ground off the outside of your rotors to make your calipers fit, plenty of people on this site have done this mod.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 6:09 pm 
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I changed the rotors and the actually fit fine, however, I was trying to solve a problem i have which still has not been solved. Ive notice that the brake pedal has become spongy, I hate the feel of it. Previously, when i depressed the pedal it was easy to heel and toe because the pedal was almost the same height as the accelerator pedal. I find now that the pedal does down too low and has an awful spongy feeling. I did the following in an attempt to resolve this:

Bleeded the system
replaced the master cylinder
Bleeded the system
Serviced all the calipers
Bleeded the system
Changed the rotors in front which were very worn (stay away from MINTEX)
Changed all the disc pads (EBC green in front)


Despite all of the above, my brakes still feel lousy, i dont have any confidence in the brakes. Ive only just installed the EBC today so theyre still bedding in. The car used to have excellent brakes.

Im now thinking about the hoses, considering changing the hoses, maybe theyre swelling out under pressure ??

Anyone have any suggestions ??

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 5:12 am 
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Location: Fin
Did You bleed enough? some times the air doesn't come out easily and noticed that swift has not normal brake line " schematic" , forexample front left and rear right cylinders are a pair. So when bleeding the brakes those should bleed as pair. I have recently had also some prob's with brakes. Burned one set of green EBC's and now have red ones on try, but not convinced that they will work any better. Next saturday I will know how the EBC red's work in rally... I bought a set of Endless (expensive) race pads (mk1 gti ) from friend but those are on the way. :(


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 3:05 am 
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Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
Dattman wrote:
Red stuff would not be ideal, made for heavier higher hp cars, greenstuff would be fine but are really expensive, we are talking about a lightweight car going uphill on a run that will only take a minute or two, rear pads don't do much work but definitely have to work with zero heat.


On my Mk3 I am running green stuff on the front and black stuff on the rear for similar events, very happy so far.
Have just installed red stuff on the WRX and yet to test.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 7:06 pm 
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Finntroll wrote:
Did You bleed enough? some times the air doesn't come out easily and noticed that swift has not normal brake line " schematic" , forexample front left and rear right cylinders are a pair. So when bleeding the brakes those should bleed as pair. I have recently had also some prob's with brakes. Burned one set of green EBC's and now have red ones on try, but not convinced that they will work any better. Next saturday I will know how the EBC red's work in rally... I bought a set of Endless (expensive) race pads (mk1 gti ) from friend but those are on the way. :(


Thanks, im going to try that next.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 12:54 pm 
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Location: Fin
I tried those EBC red ones. No better than green ones. Burned out after 10 km first SS. Two last SS we drove basicly without brakes.
I swapped to Endless pads EP20 compound and now have first time BRAKES on car!!!! With half pedal force car really stops and first time of swift's history I don't have "ABS" brakes. Only little drawback is that Endless pads need pre heating. Anyway if somebody use left foot braking with mk1 gti and has brake problems, Endless EP 179 pad is the solution to problem. :D


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 7:43 pm 
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For the Mk1 guys, is it necessary to convert to disc? Im building a forsa for tarmac sprints and some circuit racing with sprints no longer than 11km max.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 11:48 pm 
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Autocross Mk3:

I swapped to Honda calipers to clear 13's, with the added bonus that Greenstuff pads for them are easy to find. I am using cheap (yet hard to find :huh: ) Monroe pads on the rear that were the only ones I could find listed as semi-metallic.

Brembo rotors, SS lines.

I love the brakes but while Greenstuff heat up quickly, they still feel slightly slick for a couple of good stops sometimes before they're completely ready to go.

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