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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 3:12 pm 
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Location: Florida, USA
I have a 91 metro, wanting to improve suspension what would be best to go for first.. rear sway bar or rear strut bar.

rear sway bar
pro-recomended for FF cars, I can use a used from another car
con-I have to find and buy one and fab it on

rear struct bar
pro-easy to install
con- price (229 turbine tech) wont imporve handling as much?

this what im in the process of doling:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50785

let me know what you guys think, thanks for your time.


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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 3:32 pm 
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I say go for both. The swaybar is easy to install. Plus once that's done that rear strut bar will be worth its weight in gold.

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You get an old one, clean it up, put it back to specs and take care of it, and she'll last for years.

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1989 Suzuki Swift GTi: Red "My PocketRocket"
1989 Suzuki Swift GTi: White (Being resurrected)
1996 Geo Metro (Stocker)
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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 3:34 pm 
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#1 for me would be neither....

Front lower strut brace. It ties the 2 front framehorns together that are notoriosly flimsy on these cars. Go to turbinetech.ca - they have steel and al ones on there.

edit- when you do end up doing the rear sway bar, addco makes a 7/8" bar for swift gt's (I have it) that you can use on your Geo. You will just have to make some mounts to mount it to the body- there are threads on here showing how to do it with just fender washers and bolts.

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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 12:18 am 
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did u put the Front lower strut brace on the car, if so how does it feel from before?

check out my project: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50785


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 12:20 am 
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rear sway bar first.

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1992 Geo metro, 1.0L 5spd, 511,000miles on original engine & trans
- First time engine work at 456K miles, bad headgasket. Rebuilt head, Felpro gasket installed.
- knuckles/hubs/brakes/13" wheels from a 2000 Metro, running 175 70R13
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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 11:00 am 
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Quote:
#1 for me would be neither....

Front lower strut brace. It ties the 2 front framehorns together that are notoriosly flimsy on these cars. Go to turbinetech.ca - they have steel and al ones on there.


By far this should be the first Thing to get to help handling. Its a night and day difference with a under body brace.

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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 7:47 am 
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thanks for all the input guys


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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 3:30 pm 
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Location: Telford, West midlands, UK
Have a look at the Whiteline web site, some usefull info on how to make your Swift handle.

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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 9:17 pm 
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Location: Richland, WA
I have all three turbine tech on my GTi. I put them all on at the same time so the difference between the braces is unknown to me but overall its night and day. I will be modifying my vert to the same config as the GTi.

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clinty wrote:
Us swift people are a rare breed.

pacapo wrote:
You get an old one, clean it up, put it back to specs and take care of it, and she'll last for years.

JVS wrote:
We (the Suzuki enthusiast) are Dinosaurs.

An eye for an eye will leave the whole world blind.

1989 Suzuki Swift GTi: Red "My PocketRocket"
1989 Suzuki Swift GTi: White (Being resurrected)
1996 Geo Metro (Stocker)
1999 Suzuki 1.6 Esteem (Baleno) Wagon (Sleeper creeper)


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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 11:17 pm 
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Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada
i have murr's rear strut bar, it bolts down where the seatbelt laches are to the body and to the towers, its excellent,

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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 1:58 am 
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thicker rear sway bar(20mm) was one of the biggest improvements i made to my cars handling. It just balanced the entire car out more. A lot less understeer and held corners much better

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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 10:52 am 
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Location: TX-USA
rear sway bar off a '95+ metro, should be <$20 from a local pull it yourself yard, holes already in the right place on the control arms, just have to drill 4 holes in the trunk floor to mount it to the bottom of the car.
from my build:
I finally got the rear sway bar on today.
Image Image
I attached it to the control arms first, then lined up the brackets with the same spacing as they had on the sedan I took them off of.

Image
Drilled 4 holes, and bolted it up into the trunk. I used 4 fender washers that fit the bolts I used (grade 8 zinc coated. I also used lock washers on the outside.

Image Image
It really tightened up the car's handling I took a drive today and tested it out. Much nicer :)

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:12 pm 
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Location: Florida, USA
sorry for late post, thanks for the info guys , i think right now im trying to get the rear sway bar then the front brace and lastly the rear upper strut bar, thanks for all the input, hope u all do well in your project ill keep u all posted


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 10:31 pm 
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Location: Edmonton
Late post as well, but our little Swifts love MASSIVE, huge rear sway bars! :)

I wonder if I can run 2? or even better 3!!! MORE OVERSTEER!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 5:11 am 
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Yes I have seen a photo's from the 24hr lemon cbr metro with 2 swaybars stacked.
Yes more swaybars or bigger rear sways add oversteer, BUT it's because adding more bar REDUCES grip, why reduce grip in the back when you can add MORE grip in the front, grip up the front end and have more overall grip without understeer.
If you are using anything more than 18mm rear bar you need to sort out other aspects of your suspension if you still have understeer...


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 10:40 pm 
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Location: Edmonton
Dattman wrote:
Yes I have seen a photo's from the 24hr lemon cbr metro with 2 swaybars stacked.
Yes more swaybars or bigger rear sways add oversteer, BUT it's because adding more bar REDUCES grip, why reduce grip in the back when you can add MORE grip in the front, grip up the front end and have more overall grip without understeer.
If you are using anything more than 18mm rear bar you need to sort out other aspects of your suspension if you still have understeer...


How do you add more grip to the front? I have Koni's, Azenis, H&R coils.

I would like to improve my car for autoX (I have a big rear bar).


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 1:14 am 
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More Castor, more neg camber ie 2.5 deg neg and most importantly aluminium strut tops, urethane bushes on the control arms, lower brace on the front control arms, The front top strut brace doesn't do much but if you 'need' one then the suzitech one with combined engine brace would be my pick, at least the engine steady is actually doing something.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 10:02 pm 
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Location: Edmonton
I have the massive OMP strut brace.

I have poly bushings from Aus, but not installed. Where do I get the aluminum strut tops? And I am planning on welding up the front (x brace times 4 and front to back so bracing shouldn't be a problem).

I think I have enough neg. camber. Just trying to get ready for next year's autocrosses.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 1:42 am 
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The suzitech top brace has a built in engine steady which is quite useful, personally I think the top strut brace does very little, if you look at the strut towers they are quite close to the fire wall and thats not going to flex much, most of the flex occurs in the factory strut top, I have measured upto 11mm of deflection and that is all due to the rubber compressing.

The next thing to address is the control arm mounting points, the bottom front brace is the only brace worth having, rear braces are a waste of time and just add weight, there's not much loading thru the rear shock, most flex is in the tiny rear toe bars which contributes to understeer in and oversteer out of corners, pretty much the complete opposite of what you want.

Cusco make alloy strut tops amongst others, on my mk1 gti the alloy strut tops I made with incresed camber saved 2.8 secs per lap on a 3km track.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 5:49 am 
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For those that asked, my mk1 solid strut tops, I offset cut them to shape to give extra camber.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:58 pm 
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Location: Edmonton
Is there another name for them? I keep getting the 'strut bar' when I try to search for the tops.

They look great by the way!! I'm hoping that the car improves enough to make me a better driver. :)


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 9:16 am 
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Sorry for reviving an old thread... But, I have a question, does the "bottom front brace" from suzitech that is referenced here do the same thing as the underbody brace from Turbine Tech?

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89 Suzuki Swift GTI
15" Lancer OZ Racing Rims
Custom Trailing Arms by Dethbrd
Boxed Rear Control Arms
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2 1/4" Exhaust
Turbine Tech Underbody Brace
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:04 am 
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Yes they do the same thing, but Turbine Tech's brace is better because it bolts to four points under the car rather than just 2.

However, if you're serious about autocross competition in the US, the extra two attachments are against SCCA rules in the classes you would want to run in :(

Good news: Jess from Turbine Tech will make you one with only the two attachment points if you want. Two is not as good as four, but way better than none :D

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http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=57216


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:10 am 
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Teeth wrote:
Yes they do the same thing, but Turbine Tech's brace is better because it bolts to four points under the car rather than just 2.

However, if you're serious about autocross competition in the US, the extra two attachments are against SCCA rules in the classes you would want to run in :(

Good news: Jess from Turbine Tech will make you one with only the two attachment points if you want. Two is not as good as four, but way better than none :D


I thought they did, I knew the Turbine Tech brace was better if it was the same thing. Thats a bummer about autoX I suppose I need to look up those rules and find out if I'm willing to abide by them. I assume you picked up a two point one from him? What did he charge you for that?

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89 Suzuki Swift GTI
15" Lancer OZ Racing Rims
Custom Trailing Arms by Dethbrd
Boxed Rear Control Arms
Super Pro Poly Bushings
Genie Header
Nissan Intake Manifold
2 1/4" Exhaust
Turbine Tech Underbody Brace
Honda CRX Front Brake Calipers


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:35 am 
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$125 plus shipping, very reasonable.

You can download the solo rules here: http://www.scca.com/solo/content.cfm?cid=44517

I am not sure if you are allowed to run your oversize TB in STC, but that's a good target for a car with minor mods (no hope being competitive against 91' Civics, but a fun class nonetheless).

I run FSP, which is maybe a better fit, but then you need race tires to be competitive.

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Quote:
No one expects the Spanish Inquisition!

Spanish Inquisition Racing chip burning service--build yourself a custom chip!
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=57216


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