TeamSwift

Home of the Suzuki mini-compacts ! Your Home for all things Suzuki Swift, Geo Metro, Holden Barina, Chevy Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, and Suzuki Cultus. TeamSwift is a technical performance oriented community!
It is currently Tue Oct 17, 2017 2:19 pm

Underbody braces, turbos and more!

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 23 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:36 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
I was wondering how to adjust camber on my MK1 sprint. I.E. where are the camber bolts located? So's I can fix my camber issue.

Note: I need to add positive camber as the inside of my front tires are getting bald.

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:06 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
You can adjust toe in and toe out.
Shoot up some pictures of your suspension.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:13 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Oct 15, 2005 11:43 pm
Posts: 776
Location: Greer,South Carolina USA
there is a product called camber bolt. it is a offset bolt that you install in the upper strut bolt and then it makes camber ajustable.

_________________
Cars and Harleys


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:31 am 
Offline
Teamswift Racer
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 5:56 am
Posts: 2328
Location: Christchurch NZ, quake capital
As Phil said, adjust your toe, there is no factory camber adjustment available on these cars, you do not correct uneven tire wear by adjusting camber, if you have more negative camber on one side compared to the other then something is bent, get a wheel alighnment done.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:15 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
Went and got alighnment done. Changed tires and tierods as well. Still got wicked camber. Could this be an issue with struts springs and mounts?

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:48 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 08, 2006 8:40 am
Posts: 873
Location: End of days ranch Bouse az
MOOG K100083 Alignment Camber Kit

_________________
it doesent have to be surrounded by water to be a island and dont forget it's a 3cyl Blow,Suck,Bang


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:48 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Here's my thoughts:
-someone switched the steering knuckle

The Turbo Sprint and Carburetor Sprint knuckles are NOT interchangeable.

Take a look:

Image

a different view:

Image

Now, what are your thoughts?

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 3:33 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
Mine are factory. Not a swap out. Most of the car is original. Except the parts I've added sine I've owned it. Which isn't much.

I'm trying to get the suspension delt with before working on getting power out of the 3 banger. Any help is good help.

Another tierod inner is going out again. Which was replaced only a few months ago. From what I'm to understand tierods are to almost last the life of a vehicle. So going thru them every few months just isn't cool. Also the boots on the outer tierods I replaced a few months back are already split and leaking out grease. I'm pretty sure It's the camber issue I'm having.

Either way. Need to figure out whats up with this thing. Will have pictures up soon.

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 11:01 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
bigbadmonster wrote:
I was wondering how to adjust camber on my MK1 sprint. I.E. where are the camber bolts located? So's I can fix my camber issue.

Note: I need to add positive camber as the inside of my front tires are getting bald.


Looking at excessive camber on an MK1 Sprint
Image
due to incorrect knuckle replacement, it is almost impossible to notice the problem with the naked eye.
Maybe it has been in an accident or someone has the wrong axles installed?
We have several Sprints, and the only time a boot rips is when we accidentally rip one.
:oops:
Tie rod boots ripping annually doesn't sound right at all.
You might include more information about the car: Turbo/non, auto/5 speed etc. but I'm sure that will be apparent when you post the pictures that we've been waiting for these past 4 months.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:09 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
The car was hit on the passenger side. But not enuff to destroy it just messed up the fender.

Car is a 1987 sprint n/a 5 speed.

I wouldn't doubt that someone down the line has monkied with it. Maybe I do have wrong knuckles installed. I'll take some pictures tonite and post them later.

sorry for not posting pics sooner. ran into some money issues and a camera wasn't top of my list. :wink:

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 8:10 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Everyone West of Chicago is waiting for the economy to turn around, so don't feel like the Lone Stranger.

You probably have the right knuckles, I'm just rattling your cage.

:shock:

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 3:31 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
Picture time.

the car:

Image

the engine:

Image

the issue:

Image

Image

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 7:53 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
In this picture
Image
that lower arm is called the 'lower ball joint' and you should be able to swap them right to left.
Either measure them to see that they are the same or swap them to see if you get a different angle.
You can also do the same with the entire spring/strut assembly if you are worried they are incorrect.
They swap left to right and vice versa.

The damage is apparent from the accident you mentioned in the picture and doesn't seem to be too bad.

Is there any difficulty turning the car left to right, or right to left?
When you turn the car all the way to the right or left, do the wheels turn back toward center on their own?

All is well in Texas, where a man still means what he says, and says what he means. Thanks for the pictures.
If you get a chance, maybe a picture like the first, only from the damaged angle (passenger side).

Apologies if this doesn't make any sense; I haven't been to a rodeo in years, but did enjoy them when I had the chance.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:07 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
Damaged side:

Image

I'm pretty sure I don't get the snap back you are talking about. I'm getting a slight pull to the right side (damaged side) but a pull to the right is common. I'm not say'n you can do U-turns if you let the steering wheel go at 5mph. Just a slight right pull.

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 1:45 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
bigbadmonster wrote:
Changed tires and tierods as well. Still got wicked camber. Could this be an issue with struts springs and mounts?


This is easy to check:

Use a 12 mm and remove the three nuts on the top.
Disconnect the flexible brake line clips.
Use a 17 mm and remove the two bolts on the bottom.
Now, take the right shock assembly and switch it with the left shock assembly.
This procedure can be done in half an hour if you have someone to help (or some air tools).
Make sure to lay the two assemblies side by side and shoot a picture.

It may be that the strut tower mount was moved toward the center of the car, causing your negative camber.
Without pictures of the mount, we can only speculate.
Here's normal:
Image
Hope yours didn't get smashed over, but if it did, you may have a different situation than normal.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 3:01 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
Sorry to miss diag. It does return to center when the wheel is let go. I wasn't awake whe I wrote that.
=)

I was wondering if that mount may have been the issue. But don't think it is. because the camber is out on both sides. Not just the impacted side. O could one side cause to give negative camber?

From the looks there is no damage beyond the fender.

Could struts or springs or both be an issue to my camber problem? I'm pretty sure they are OE.

By the way thanks for the help phil!

I'll get a pic up of the mounts this evening.

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 3:59 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
With over 200 views, I'm sure there are a few other MK1 owners who are waiting to see if we can solve this before they chime in.

Since you don't think the towers were bent and have excessive negative camber on BOTH sides (did I read that right?) it points to a common error on both sides.
The lower ball joints are the same, Turbo or NA. So I'd concentrate in another area.

One little tidbit I left out on purpose was the fact that if you swap in a Turbo Sprint knuckle the steering wheel will attempt to center when you let go of the wheel.
If you have that same symptom it might point to that.

I have a knuckle in my super deluxe special 'For Sale' thread which is a whopping $15 plus shipping, but the main reason I mention it is because it is a pretty good picture of one.

You might do well to take a closer look at the steering knuckles and see if they compare better with a NA Sprint or a Turbo Sprint.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 7:59 pm 
Offline
Teamswift Racer
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 5:56 am
Posts: 2328
Location: Christchurch NZ, quake capital
When you got a wheel alighnment did they say how much camber you actually had??? any more than 2' and I would say something is bent, have you taken the struts out and swapped them over? does the extra camber follow the strut?, the tabs for the brake hoses won't be in the right place but thats minor, if the strut is bent in the middle then you will get extra camber.

You could always file the top bolt hole on the damged side strut, if you file it outwards then you can pull the top of the hub out adding positive camber.

Also those silly cantilevered control arm mounting points flex a mile and are easily bent.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 3:03 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
Here is a pic of the mounts. They are in line. and I even measured the distance center to center. If anyone has a measurement from center to center I could take my numbers and compare the diffrence. They look pretty darn straight tho.

Image

To answer the other questions. Firestone pretty much pushed me out the door after my alighnment was done. No print out or anything. I will most likely not be useing them again. Or atleast that one. So as to how much camber I'm getting, I don't know? If that was the case it would help with diag.

The struts seem to be fine. But I'm no mechanic. I can turn a wrench with the best of them but when it comes to diagnosis. I'm not so good.

I will check the knuckles as mentioned. Probably wont be till next weekend.Gotta do some brakes.

Keep in mind this is still a daily driver. Even at 550,000 miles. :lol:

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 8:18 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
When you do the brakes, post a picture of the distance between the caliper and the rim.
Any chance the front springs were cut?

See you next week.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 5:51 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
Well, my breakpads are on order and should be ariving tomorrow. Saddly they didn't have them in stock at my local parts store. They should have come in today but no dice.

Will have some pictures up tomorrow when I get my breaks in.

A buddy of mine said to check my strut mounts as they wear out over time. Could this be the issue? If so it looks like another sepcial order will be needed.

I'm hoping to get this issue figured out so I can get to the engine and trans. But as of now I'm kinda stuck. :(

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 1:16 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Finally got a chance to chime in here...

Quote:
Changed tires and tierods as well. Still got wicked camber. Could this be an issue with struts springs and mounts?


Tie rods do not affect camber.

Quote:
Another tierod inner is going out again. Which was replaced only a few months ago. From what I'm to understand tierods are to almost last the life of a vehicle. So going thru them every few months just isn't cool. Also the boots on the outer tierods I replaced a few months back are already split and leaking out grease. I'm pretty sure It's the camber issue I'm having.

Boots are replaceable, it doesn't mean the tie rod is bad. Some of the economy replacement tie rods are not as robust.
If you replace them again, be sure to get the ones with the zirk fittings so you can grease them.
Tie rods do not last the life of the vehicle. When the tie rod becomes loose and dangly, or has perceptible play
then it needs to be replaced. If it takes several finger pressures to rotate the ball in the socket, then it should be fine.
Regarding the inners, they will have in/out play. You can check this play by rocking the steering wheel back and forth
and see how much play you have while sticking your head out the window and watching the front tires.
Detect the play in the wheel when you rock it, without moving the front tires. If you have perceptable play
in the steering wheel, it is likely you have worn inner tie rods. (Do not confuse this with play in the outer tie rods)
It is possible you have play in the rack as well, try to determine the difference. If you do replace the inners, slap
some grease on the rack gear notches while you're in there. None of these issues will affect camber.

Quote:
there is a product called camber bolt. it is a offset bolt that you install in the upper strut bolt and then it makes camber ajustable.

This is an excellent, inexpensive product and will give you some camber adjustment. Very easy to install, one per side in one of the
strut to knuckle bolt holes. Then re-align.

Quote:
The car was hit on the passenger side. But not enuff to destroy it just messed up the fender.

Very common damage. Very easy to get things out of whack if it contacted your wheel as well.
In this case it may have jolted the sway bar/strut rod out of position in the front mounts.
This will affect camber. It is also possible to adjust camber/caster during an alignment by loosening the
front sway bar mounts and repositioning. This will affect both sides, so you have to find the happy medium.

Quote:
Keep in mind this is still a daily driver. Even at 550,000 miles

Quote:
Most of the car is original. Except the parts I've added sine I've owned it. Which isn't much.


So the front end is OE except for the tie rods you replaced?
Your problem may be accident related, but honestly all your parts are severely worn
@550k miles and you should do an EZ overhaul.
Recommend:
Lower Control Arms/Ball Joints ($44.00 Ebay)
Strut Rod/control Arm Bushings (good luck finding these, but definately evaluate yours for wear)
Struts ( around $50ea)
Strut Mounts with bushing and bearing kit ($20-60 per side)
Sway Bar Bushings ($20 online or Jegs aftermarket polyurethane)
You need to have sound front components to do a proper alignment,
even with all new parts factory specs may be off, so the camber bolt kit will help.
You can replace all yourself pretty easy, hardest part would be the struts and
strut mounts as you need to compress and remove the spring, and power tools
help on the top strut nut removal.

My opinion is that your OE parts are all worn and need overhaul, these will greatly
affect your alignment specs. In addition, the side impact may have dislocated the
sway bar position causing your camber issues. It is possible you may have a bent
part as well, a competent alignment shop should be able to tell you.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 12:07 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
Sorry it's taken so long to reply to the thread. Been working my butt off try'n to make some cash.

Anyway. Fixed the issue with some camber bolts. Got everything back in line. It's amazing how just a little of and angle out can go a long way.

Thanks for the help all! :D

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 23 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group