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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:36 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Montague PEI, Canada
Hello every one,
I recently bought a 99 Firefly to drive, 1.3 16 valve , 4DR sedan. It came with a bad proportioning valve, and a spare one in the trunk from a Suzuki Esteem. The front calipers had not been releasing, so I swapped the proportioning valve for the spare. Had no problems for about a week. This evening on the way home from work, my calipers stuck on again. I have 3 other Fireflys but all the proportioning valves are a little different, but look like they may bolt up. Does any one know for sure if proportioning valves can mixed and matched, or would it be unsafe to do so? I 'm not 100 percent sure that the calipers aren't ruined either.
Thanks :?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 9:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
Problem is far more likely the calipers than the proportioning valve. I've seen a few calipers do that on these cars,I've never seen prop valve cause this. I'd really consider a new pair of calipers before doing anything else.
If you can catch it in the act, diagnosing it will be easy. Jack up a wheel when the brake is sticking and crack the bleeder screw. If fluid come out and wheel moves easily, you have an issue holding pressure to that wheel. If it stays sticky/tight, it's the caliper piston sticking.

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:10 pm
Posts: 880
Location: Vancouver, WA
+1 most likely a caliper

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 8:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:36 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Montague PEI, Canada
Thanks for the help, I've never had a car seize both front calipers before, are these cars prone to this? Or is it dumb luck, not that it matters, the car is well worth fixing. I will try the calipers next. If any one has any more suggestions, I would love to hear them.
Thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 7:57 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 9:16 am
Posts: 412
Location: sidney, nebraska
+1 on calipers but consider the flex lines. They will start degrading on the inside and swell acting like a check valve and hold the caliper clamped.

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1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11669
Location: columbus, ohio
this is just me, but when i do brakes i do all the brakes.

since the brakes are a major safety system i replace the rotors, calipers, brake linings, hoses, and somethimes the master cylinder. i've even replaced worn brake pedal linkages.

if your rubber hoses are more than 3 years old or you don't know how old they are, replace 'em. i usually find a set of the nitrile or nylon lined braided stainless hoses as a replacement because the tubing liner doesn't swell like rubber hose does. braided brake lines will last 3 times as long as oem replacement rubber hoses, they are armored, and they improve the pedal feel.

you can get a set for $50 in any color your want on ebay.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 10:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:36 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Montague PEI, Canada
Thanks for the help guys, since my last post, I put new calipers and pads on the car, the hoses were new, so I didn't touch them. Drove the car home, and the same thing ,calipers heated up and stuck. Only this time, I pulled up on the brake pedal with the toe of my boot, and they released. I wondered if the brake switch could be the problem. I called a good friend of mine who is a mechanic at a Chev dealer and explained it to him, and he suggested the brake switch might be sticking. The next day , I sprayed some AD2000 {Penetrating fluid} on the switch and the pedal assembly. It seemed fine for a few days, and then I lost my brake lights. I have since replaced the brake switch, and all seems well, After getting the old switch out and depressing it with my fingers, I can see how it may have been just stiff enough to hold the brakes on just enough to cause the calipers to heat up and stick worse. I think it may be fixed (knock on wood!) Another mechanic friend of mine ( I work at a Dodge dealer), said if the switch was faulty, the penetrating fluid would have certainly finished it. I will keep you all posted as this is certainly a new one for me, in case any one else is having the same problem. And if the problem persists, its master cylinder and booster time! :blackeye:


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 6:50 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
if you remove the brake master cylinder and vacuum canister you will see the adjustable linkage that connects to the brake pedal. if the pedal return spring doesn't provide enough pull off to return the master cylinder piston to it's neutral position, you adjust the linkage until it does return the piston to it's correct position.

if the piston doesn't clear the hole for the master cylinder's fluid reservoir, the pressure can remain in the braking system and hang the brakes. swelled rubber cups on the piston can do the same thing.

you can rebuild or replace the master cylinder or try the adjustment. you will need a new brake light switch now as well.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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