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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 12:17 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:55 pm
Posts: 1257
Location: So. Calif
Replaced steering rack bellows this weekend and after putting the rack back in I had some clunking in the steering. Traced it to the steering column shaft as it exits the column and turns into a u-joint. It's not the u-joint as I can grab the shaft as it exits the column and it will clunk around with the same noise and feel if I move it laterally.

I think there might be a bearing or sleeve in there with a plastic or rubber collar and this collar is messed up.

Before I tear into it, anyone taken a steering column apart before? Can it be disassembled? Online exploded diagrams don't show that it can be.

TIA

ps, obviously fixing the bellows didn't cause the clunk - just happened to notice it when I was paying attention/checking how the steering rack wear was progressing.

_________________
1992 Geo metro, 1.0L 5spd, 511,000miles on original engine & trans
- First time engine work at 456K miles, bad headgasket. Rebuilt head, Felpro gasket installed.
- knuckles/hubs/brakes/13" wheels from a 2000 Metro, running 175 70R13
- New bearings and 1st/2nd synchros at 440.5K miles.
- MPGuino
- Averaging ~ 51MPG these days


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 3:32 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2004 5:56 am
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Location: Christchurch NZ, quake capital
If you're sure it's inside the steering column then there won't be much you can do, it's a collapsible steering column, there's a plastic crush tube type arrangement inside, I took one apart to extend it for my race car, very ugly inside, thought I had a photo but can't seem to find it.
You might want to find another column.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 1:01 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:55 pm
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Location: So. Calif
Dattman wrote:
If you're sure it's inside the steering column then there won't be much you can do, it's a collapsible steering column, there's a plastic crush tube type arrangement inside, I took one apart to extend it for my race car, very ugly inside, thought I had a photo but can't seem to find it.
You might want to find another column.


Thanks much - helps actually.
Do you remember HOW it was assembled in the factory? I'm guessing the 'two rods' from each end press together into something in the middle. I can't imagine they slipped the shaft/plastic assy in from one side, then welded the bottom u-joint on.

In the meantime I found a way to take up the slack down there without taking it all apart. Made a HUGE difference. I don't know why it got sloppy that I felt things through the floorboard when going over bumpy surfaces (like the wooden bridge at the ranch) but now everything feels tight.

Still might try and disassemble a column at the pick your part junkyard. Wonder if I could take a slide hammer to it and pull the u-joint end out.

_________________
1992 Geo metro, 1.0L 5spd, 511,000miles on original engine & trans
- First time engine work at 456K miles, bad headgasket. Rebuilt head, Felpro gasket installed.
- knuckles/hubs/brakes/13" wheels from a 2000 Metro, running 175 70R13
- New bearings and 1st/2nd synchros at 440.5K miles.
- MPGuino
- Averaging ~ 51MPG these days


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 12:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 1:32 am
Posts: 254
Location: Kitchener, ON
Edit: Just realised I'm talking about the RACK and the OP is asking about the COLUMN. Doh! :P Still need to crack into that one!

---
I've had mine apart (1990-94) for a complete tear-down, clean-up and re-grease. Works beautiful now!

There is a ball-bearing on the input shaft and a needle bearing (if I remember correctly). The ball-bearing was a std size but I was unable to remove it from the shaft or housing ... can't quite remember what the issue was. It wasn't really bad, just a bit rough. I think I put a new oil-seals, but I'd need to revisit it to be sure.

I was able to remove and rotate the outer bushings for the rack so that it's riding on a fresh surface (rotated 90-degrees).

There is also an adjustable (or spring loaded?) backer for the pinion (where the rack makes contact). You could adjust it to apply pressure and take up the slack.

After all was done I refilled it with John Deere Corn-Head Grease which is a NLGI 0 grease. Works better than new! Would really like to get in there again to replace that bearing sometime.


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