oil cooler install on a g10 metro
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Author:  87t1 [ Tue May 23, 2006 6:35 am ]
Post subject:  oil cooler install on a g10 metro

this is an oil cooler install on a 1989 g10 metro

to do the install, you need the following parts:

the easy way to get matching parts is go to/contact a parts supplier, tell them you want
to use aeroquip brand hose p/n #FC332-8. then ask for 4 male pipe to hose adapters (3/8 mpt to #8an )
the angle of of push on swivel hose fittings will be determined by the cooler location in your car. just ask the parts guy to match the fittings
to the hose being used. (be sure to ask for the plated steel fittings and pipe adapters) they are stronger and cheaper than alumnium.

1- a sandwich adapter (with thermostat) and 3/8 npt outlets that uses a 3/4 -16 thread oil filter. geo/suzuki/sprint ( 1 needed)
the thermostat helps in engine warmup and does not over cool the oil in winter. the adapters can be found at ... d-1313.jpg ( pix of transdapt adapter) ... ndwich.jpg ( pix of flex a lite adapters with part #)


2-push on hose fittings to go between the cooler and sandwich adapter using 1/2 id. (or # 8 aeroquip hose) (4 needed)
( the plated steel type works best) (different bends will be needed depending on car and cooler location)
90 degree fitting is p/n# 191321-8 ( 9 USD ea. )
45 degree fitting is p/n# fc5847-8 ( 6 USD ea. )
straight fitting is p/n# 4797-8 ( 2 USD ea. )

3- aeroquip brand hose p/n # FC332-8. Specs for the hose are 250 psi max, -40 to 300 degree f (8 to 10 feet needed)
5 inch min. bend radius. ( FC332-8 hose is 3.50 USD per foot ) ... roquip.htm (the files are pdf)

4-pipe to hose adapters to connect between push on hose fittings and cooler/sandwich adapter (4 needed)
( the plated steel ones work the best) 3/8 mpt to #8 hose is P/N# 2021-6-8 (2 USD ea.)

5-oil cooler--- you can pick the one you like, i use a fin and plate "long" brand 11x7-1/2 x2 with 1/2 -13 FNPT openings.
this fits on the mk2/ mk3/mk4 cars with the least problems.
****used coolers are ok-- flush them with solvent to remove old varnish and dry with low pressure air.****

6-to install the push on fittings on the hose, you will need a vise, a rubber mallet, 2 small wood blocks , some silicone spray,
a pipe to hose adapter, and a small pair of vice grips. (hose in vice) (fitting preperation)

7-when installing pipe to hose adapters, use the selant of your choice.
I wrap the pipe thread with 2 wraps of 1/2 inch teflon tape, and dab a small
amount of rectorseal # 5 pipe dope over the tape. ****avoid putting selant on the tips of the pipe threads ****
EXCESSIVE SELANT CAN GET IN THE OIL SYSTEM be careful. (pic of sealant on pipe to hose adapter)

8-when installing pipe to hose adapter fittings in the oil cooler or sandwich adapter, DO NOT OVER-TORQUE THE FITTINGS .
doing so will split the cooler fitting bosses. use the proper size back-up wrench, and firm, but not excessive torque on fittings.

9-test mount the cooler where you like, then select 2 push on hose fittings best suited to help route the hoses to the sandwich adapter.
then install the push on fittings in the hose ends, making sure to butt the hose end against the fitting ring. if you like,install hose clamps
on the push on fittings . (pic of cooler with lines)

10-remove the cooler, attach and torque the cooler lines using a back up the cooler, route the lines away from
sharp / hot objects. on my 1989 g10, I had to roll the top edge of the frount crossmember with a 2 x 4 board . this lets you route
the oil lines from the cooler to the sandwich adapter easily. (pic of crossmember)

11-before mounting the sandwich adapter, ***use low pressure air to blow out the cooler and lines.***

12-remove the oil filter, lube the sandwich adapter o ring with motor oil, and mount the adapter to the engine.
test fit the 2 push on fittings on the adapter, and trim the hoses to length. insert the 2 push on fittings in the hoses.
( I used 2 pieces of angle iron and a pair of vice grips to hold the hose)

13-replace the oil filter. if you like, pre fill the hose and cooler with motor oil. check all fittings for correct torque. check oil level in motor,
remove EFI fuse to prevent engine from starting. crank engine 10-15 sec and check for leaks. crank engine 15-20 seconds and
check for leaks. if no leaks, replace EFI fuse and RE-CHECK engine oil level. if ok, start motor and watch for leaks. let run for 20-30
seconds, and shut off. go have a cold one and come back in 15 min. :D re check engine oil level, and start motor. let run and watch for leaks.

the cost of the install can vary between 100-200 dollars, this sounds expensive,
but the engine will last longer and run better doing it.

the fun was finding all the parts


to install the cooler in my car cost 110 usd... :D .... :thumbsup:

hose- 29 usd

fittings- 40 usd

adapter- 30usd

used oil
cooler- 10usd

here are 2 types of sandwich adapters with thermostats--- ... ndwich.jpg (pic of flex a lite sandwich adapter) ... ew=sku(pic of transdapt adapter)

good luck :)

Author:  JellyBeanDriver [ Tue May 23, 2006 11:05 pm ]
Post subject: 

Seems I hear more problems with dying G10's from burned valves than bearing wear and oil breakdown. My 1992 1.0L with 282K miles still happily zings along - without an oil cooler attached.

Have you taken oil temps before your mod? Did it warrant the addition of a cooler?

Just wondering out loud.

Author:  n1tr0 [ Tue May 23, 2006 11:35 pm ]
Post subject: 

:cheers: awesome write-up !!

Author:  87t1 [ Tue May 23, 2006 11:51 pm ]
Post subject:  burnt valves

thanks, N1tro :)

hi jbd-

when i sold the car it had 600,000 + miles
wore out 4 motors, most were rings worn out. I did burn 1 exhaust valve. i installed the cooler because the car is being powerd by a
small motorcycle engine. (it needs all the help it can get) :)
I never botherd to note oil temps, but the motors lasted longer--
10-20,000 more miles before compression came down. as far as engine heat load, 3 160 lb people and tools at 70-75 (with the air on)
over 1100 ft hills is not good. I just figured the cooler was cheap insurance. :wink: glad to hear your car still zings along. :) (mine usually grumbles)

good luck :)

Author:  98 suzuki swift [ Sun Feb 24, 2008 8:54 pm ]
Post subject: 

So with this oil cooler can you get the temp of the oil with a gauge inside the car???? By hooking it up to the oil cooler or is that something different to get the Temp???

Author:  87t1 [ Mon Feb 25, 2008 6:21 pm ]
Post subject: 

98 suzuki swift wrote:
So with this oil cooler can you get the temp of the oil with a gauge inside the car???? By hooking it up to the oil cooler or is that something different to get the Temp???

The oil cooler removes heat from the engine measure oil temp, a temp sender needs to be installed
in the oil pan or oil passage in the motor. Here is a pic of a VDO temp sender installed in the oil cooler adapter
to measure oil temp to the engine after going thru the cooler. :)


Author:  98 suzuki swift [ Mon Feb 25, 2008 8:48 pm ]
Post subject: 

alright thanks.

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