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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 6:26 pm 
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i use grade 20w 50 in my gti and i was told by my mechanic that back in the day when he use to build and race his GTi he use to use 10w 30.... he said he gets the best performance out of the G13b with that grade... i was eager to try this but b4 i did, i wanted to get sum feedback from persons who have tried this particular grade......

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 6:48 pm 
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Location: Georgetown, Guyana
10W30 is the factory recommended grade for the car in your climate - what more is there to say?


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 6:53 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, ON
How thick is 20w50? How would oil pressue be affected by stanno changing grades?


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 7:40 pm 
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Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
10/30 is recommended. Other (thicker) grades often cause noisy lifters (something that irritates the heck out of me)...


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 4:36 pm 
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oh yes, noisy lifters killing me epecially when i cold start...

the next important question is... can i just switch to 10w 30 just like that my next oil change???

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 7:26 pm 
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Changing the weight of oil is as simple as that. At the next oil change you just pour in different weight oil. Some parts of the world they do that as the season changes. In the high desert areas it gets nice and warm in the summer, but cold and snowy in the winter. So different weights are used as the average temp raises and lowers. :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 5:52 am 
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Location: Kildare, IRELAND.
Always been 10w-40 for my gti.


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 2:16 pm 
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Location: Kingston
if i do a block swap and convert to 1.5 (G15A) ... is the 10W 30 grade still a good choice?

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2007 2:21 am 
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Fu<k... 10w30 is a excellent choice. I dont run anything else on such a small engine. On the 5.0 I would run 20w50 because it seemed to 'like it'... but 5w30 is a little thin for a warm climate. Mabye use it up here in canada in the winter ;)

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2007 7:31 am 
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0W-30 5W-30 and 10W-30 are identical when warm, the first number is the cold number.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 5:05 pm 
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I was told in a smaller high perf engine like the ones in the GT's and such. The best oil to use is the 5w20 synthetics.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 5:17 pm 
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Location: San Juan, Argentina
Jamaica is hot. I would keep the 10W grade, but get something thicker when hot... Like 10W40 or 10W50... even 10W60.

If you keep hearing lifter noise, you can try 5W40.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 6:58 am 
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Location: Chester County PA
Being that the temp doesn't fluctuate much(in Jamaica)why not just run straight 30weight?

There is VERY little chance of the oil breaking down before scheduled maintenance.

I was told to avoid ANY oil (dino or synthetic if it had a "spread" of more than 20....Meaning that 10w30 is good 10w40 is NOT good. Reason being that in order to get an oil that is a 30weight that POURS like a 10 weight when it 0 degrees outside, they need to use polymers in the oil. The more of the spread the more polymers needed. The more polymers added, the quicker the oil breaks down and loses protection....

I could be wrong, but that's how it was taught to me in mechanic's school.

(recently, too..)



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:57 am 
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:52 pm 
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jimmyjr wrote:
Being that the temp doesn't fluctuate much(in Jamaica)why not just run straight 30weight?

Because he is already getting lifter noise on a cold engine running 20w30 - straight 30 weight oil would just make that worse.

Try 10w30 on your next oil change and then 5w30 after that and see which one works best for you. Experiment a little.

LOL - I just realized this thread is already two months old. :roll:


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 1:49 pm 
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i'm kinda sceptic, friend of mine who has a GTi head 1.5 block set up switched from 20w 50 to 10w 30 an immediately he has oil pressure issues... his oil pressure gauge read level 10 which he said was real low... low enough to hit rod bearings... :( he was advised to adjust the oil pump...

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 2:04 pm 
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Location: Chester County PA
Hi Stanno,

Here's an old mechanic's trick.....

Have you tried running a quart of K-1 kero (mixed with your old oil) BEFORE you drain it?


Whatever you do....do NOT overfill your oil(when adding the kero) OR....use more than 1 quart of the kero....It would be a fire hazard.....


You can also use cheap tranny fluid, then drain it immediately.
then....fill up with new oil of your choosing......


Jimmy


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:51 pm 
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Location: dunnville, ontario,canada,the world,the universe
Stanno wrote:
i'm kinda sceptic, friend of mine who has a GTi head 1.5 block set up switched from 20w 50 to 10w 30 an immediately he has oil pressure issues... his oil pressure gauge read level 10 which he said was real low... low enough to hit rod bearings... :( he was advised to adjust the oil pump...


how do you hit rod bearings? :?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:33 pm 
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Location: Georgetown, Guyana
Stanno wrote:
i'm kinda sceptic, friend of mine who has a GTi head 1.5 block set up switched from 20w 50 to 10w 30 an immediately he has oil pressure issues... his oil pressure gauge read level 10 which he said was real low... low enough to hit rod bearings... :( he was advised to adjust the oil pump...


Let me put it this way.

Suzuki Motors who build the car state in the owner's manual that 10w30 is the recommended grade of oil for the 1.0, 1.3 & 1.6 Swifts when used in a Caribbean climate.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 6:37 am 
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Stanno wrote:
i'm kinda sceptic, friend of mine who has a GTi head 1.5 block set up switched from 20w 50 to 10w 30 an immediately he has oil pressure issues... his oil pressure gauge read level 10 which he said was real low... low enough to hit rod bearings... :( he was advised to adjust the oil pump...


That might be because of the damage that was done by insanely thick oil.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 4:53 pm 
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20W50 isn't insanely thick, and can't damage the engine.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 6:09 pm 
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10w-60 Castrol TWS Syn all the way.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 10:44 pm 
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I'm changing my oil tomorrow. It's been 6 months running with 10-40. Already bought some 10-30. Will see if there's a difference.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 6:10 am 
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Caaarlo wrote:
20W50 isn't insanely thick, and can't damage the engine.


The engineers who designed and built it disagree with you, but you can choose to believe whatever you want. They say 10W-30 is right for a warm climate in all G series engines. Went on to say that 10W-40 was a contributing cause of burned exhaust valves in the three cylinders.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 12:13 pm 
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Woodie wrote:
Caaarlo wrote:
20W50 isn't insanely thick, and can't damage the engine.


The engineers who designed and built it disagree with you.


Yeah sure. That's why 20W50 is listed in the manual as an accepted oil viscosity for warm climates. 10W30 is fine for regular climates, where 30deg C is the hottest ambient temperature seen. But Jamaica gets hotter than that. Furthermore, it will never see freezing temperatures.

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Woodie wrote:
Went on to say that 10W-40 was a contributing cause of burned exhaust valves in the three cylinders.

:shock: Ok, enough.

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