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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2007 12:40 pm 
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Location: Utah
Heavier oil probably won't damage anything too badly, but it can lower fuel efficiency and cause cold start noises.
Switching oil weights absolutely will not cause problems, but it may reveal issues that heavier oil might cover up. That's when people see low oil pressure, spun bearings, oil consumption. It was ALREADY a problem, you just didn't know it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 8:14 pm 
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I'm flabbergasted by that chart for two reasons: it's drastically different than anything I've ever seen before, and the graphic is completely at odds with the writing. It specifically says 10W-30 preferred, but shows a bar with no arrows hinting that 10W-30 is only for a narrow range? Makes no sense at all. I didn't make up the thing about the 10W-40, there was a TSB concerning the burned exhaust valves in three cylinders that said 10W-40 was part of the problem and should not be used as it was too thick. At any rate, you should always use the thinnest oil that will protect the bearings. It flows quicker on start up, reduces heat build up, gives more power and better mileage.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 9:16 pm 
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Location: Georgetown, Guyana
Why does the bar need arrows - it says uses 10w30 between -20 to 30 Centigrade, the Caribbean at large doesn't get below 20 and rarely goes above 30.

What's interesting, and I've never really noticed it before, is that 5w30 is apparently not acceptable on a GTi or a 1.6 above 10C and the 10w30 is. Seeing as the 30 is the "hot" weight, that really doesn't make sense.

I've been using 10w30 for ten years now with no regrets, and I know from experience that 20w50 will cause lifter "patter" at startup and switching to 10w30 clears that up very nicely.

Maybe I'll switch to a 10w40 at the next oil change and see how it goes.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 10:12 pm 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Have you guys taken into account expanding tolerances in the engine as the miles rack up or you feel it is a non-issue?

I have used 10w/40 in my 97 GTi with 140000kms for years without issue but not sure if a 10w/30 would really serve me better. I may have been more inclined to go with a lighter oil if I had less k's on the engine but again I'm not certain if it's an issue unless your engine is obviously unhealthy and worn out.

Summer temps here can range between high 20's to low 40 degrees Celcius! Don't think I can really be bothered using different oil grades for summer and winter.

Technically there isn't a huge difference in thickness between the weights from my understanding. 40w is not 25% thicker than 30w for instance. 40w simply is the next weight up in the viscocity scale. Maybe this can keep things in perspective. However, ofcourse we want the most appropriate oil for our engines so such discussion is indeed warranted.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 10:03 am 
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Location: Los Angeles, Ca.
I ran 20w 50 synthetic for about the last 50k miles on my car. I saw no ill effects. The car was noisy anyways, so I didn't notice any lifter noise.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2007 7:18 am 
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Metropwr wrote:
I ran 20w 50 synthetic for about the last 50k miles on my car. I saw no ill effects. The car was noisy anyways, so I didn't notice any lifter noise.

Didn't you have the SOHC 16V engine? I thought they didn't have hydraulic lifters?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 9:57 pm 
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Location: Regina, SK
Gasoline Fumes wrote:
Metropwr wrote:
I ran 20w 50 synthetic for about the last 50k miles on my car. I saw no ill effects. The car was noisy anyways, so I didn't notice any lifter noise.

Didn't you have the SOHC 16V engine? I thought they didn't have hydraulic lifters?


Correct they run a rocker style of valve activation/opening system. So as long as the valve lash on the rocker arms is set correctly then running 80w90 won't give you lifter noise on a 16V SOHC engine.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:38 am 
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I did have rocker noise for a little while, due to mis-adjusted valve lash.

But I still never had any troubles with the oil.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 10:42 am 
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Location: San Juan, Argentina
Metropwr wrote:
I did have rocker noise for a little while, due to mis-adjusted valve lash.


We're talking about hydraulic lifters.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 10:10 pm 
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Location: Detroit, Michigan
Hey Stanno,
Need more pics of the car in your avatar. What is it excatly and where did ya get it?



Tanxxs


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:47 am 
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I think its called a formula Hyabusa dude.
Google will sort you out. :wink:


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 12:34 pm 
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My parents ran 10w30 in their 1.0, hell the cap said to use 10w30 in their 1.0. Later they found out that 1.0 Swifts were dying left right and center. All with burnt exhaust valves. My instructor knew a gm tech, and he told him that the cars were spec'd to use 10w30 but that the oil was too thick, and baked to the egr passage, causing a the exhaust valve to burn out.

So that's why it's 5w30 in my ride, and my parents freshly rebuilt 1.0. It's supposed to help keep the egr much much clearer. That and when it's -20c outside it's much nicer trying to crank over the lil motor with 5w30 than with 10w30.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 3:48 am 
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LittleMSG wrote:
10w-60 Castrol TWS Syn all the way.

yup yup...i use that...its the TWS motorsport right??? same oils used in the BMW M3,M5s,Z4Ms and Z8s...


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 3:13 am 
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Location: karachi
its time for me to change the engine oil and the temperature is mostly hot around 25-35centigrade.

i went to oil shop so there was 10w-40 available in shell
and 5w-30 available in ZIC.

so plz champs recommend me which oil to use...


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 6:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2008 4:50 pm
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Location: California
Hey, I couldn't find another oil thread that fit to my question.

I went to Wal-Mart for an oil change and they put Castrol Syntec 5W20 in my 1.0L 3 Cyl (92 Geo Metro Convertible).

Is that going to be problematic? Would you put another oil in or is that fine to drive for now?

Do I need Synthetic Oil in that motor?

Thank you guys!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 1:00 am 
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5W20 is too thin for you. I would put that oil if I lived in alaska LOL.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 5:58 pm 
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Location: California
Too thin... hmm so would you change it to thicker oil or would you just leave it in til the next change and then go with thicker oil?

Will it harm my engine or will it just burn quicker?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:39 pm 
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I run 5W30 in my 1.0L which is the recommended oil. I use synthetic by choice and have had no issues since my rebuild 20,000 miles ago. When I first got the car with a dead cylinder, I ran 15W40 which then made my lifters noisy especially when cold.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 10:37 pm 
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Just do some 3K miles on that oil and replace it with another that has the proper viscosity.

For a tired engine, i would use no thinner than 15W40. I use 20W50 in my turbo engine with only 7K miles since rebuilt. Summer temperatures can go as high as 45 deg C where I live. Winter temps never go lower than -5deg C

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