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 Post subject: EGR and 3 cyl header...
PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 3:02 am 
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Joined: Mon May 05, 2008 9:48 pm
Posts: 88
Location: Wisconsin, USA
does the suzukird header work with the EGR system or is my addition of the header going to negate my egr system?

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1989 Geo Metro LSI- THE BEAST
-Performance head package, header, drilled/slotted rotors, cut front springs, lightened flywheel, +10 timing advance, short throw shifter, modded exhaust
1997 Blazer
-Front lowered 2", euro taillights with LED light bar, clear corners, CAI, 31x10.50 Rear tire swap
1993 Dakota
- All stock, big ol v8 beast. Wanna buy it?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 6:42 am 
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It has no provision for EGR at all, you will have a constant "check engine" light.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 4:20 pm 
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Location: Wisconsin, USA
hooray, so i ought to be expecting a burned exhaust valve, eh? Any way to prevent the burning of the valve?

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1989 Geo Metro LSI- THE BEAST
-Performance head package, header, drilled/slotted rotors, cut front springs, lightened flywheel, +10 timing advance, short throw shifter, modded exhaust
1997 Blazer
-Front lowered 2", euro taillights with LED light bar, clear corners, CAI, 31x10.50 Rear tire swap
1993 Dakota
- All stock, big ol v8 beast. Wanna buy it?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 6:50 am 
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No, some of the early mk2's didn't have EGR at all and show no measurable difference in valve life. Best thing you can do is advance your ignition timing as far as it will go without ping. Most engines will take 12 degrees or so. Free power, mileage, and longer exhaust valve life. Mark where it is now so you can set it back for emissions checks.

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91 Pontiac Firefly Turbo
10 Suzuki Kizashi


Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 9:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 12:47 am
Posts: 139
Location: Prescott, AZ
How are you guys checking the advance + what they say to run which is 5 degree's right? are you plugging in the jumper wire in the port on the drivers side or what?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 9:31 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
probably the best way to avoid burning valves is to order stainless valves with your head package from suprf1y. :D

i check my ignition advance with my timing light. when the timing mark goes off the scale, my light has a knob that i can turn to bring the pulley mark back to zero. then i read the knob to get the total advance. always use the appropriate jumper to keep the ecu from adding any timing adjustment.

advancing the ignition timing usually seems to raise the idle speed, too. i like mine set to +12 degrees @ 1,000 rpm. it helps to keep the electrical system from sagging, especially in the winter where you're running the heater blower, lights, and windshield wipers all at the same time. most people don't realize that just running the electric fuel pump, injector(s) ecu, and ignition takes about 38% of the power the alternator makes. if your lights dim, wipers seem slower, etc. when the car is idling then you aren't getting full voltage to the ecu, either.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 6:01 am 
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Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 12:47 am
Posts: 139
Location: Prescott, AZ
I've got two heads sitting here waiting till i get any sort of spare money! I'm driving my little metro from 6000' to 700' elev and back every day, and lemme tell ya, coming up the mountain sucks with the stock flow!!! poor little guy doesn't like doing the 200mi/day and I'd like to get over 75mph!!!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:15 pm 
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Bozo the crying clown

Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:19 am
Posts: 414
Location: Chester County PA
You don't need the header to go fast. Port and polish your head and then do the same to the stock exhaust manifold. Clean up all the internal imperfections and slap a hi flow cat on there...


You'll REALLY be rockin and rollin'. ;-)


And BTW...I had the header and it does work well, but not passing emissions...... that just didn't cut it. :-(


Jimmy


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:28 pm 
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Location: Prescott, AZ
luckily, I don't have emissions where I live (for now)

I am going to weld an elbow on the EGR to keep the damn check engine light off, that would drive me nuts!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:34 pm 
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Bozo the crying clown

Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:19 am
Posts: 414
Location: Chester County PA
Please post a pic when your done, cause I'd be interested in seeing what it looks like.
I had the header and don't believe it could be easily modified...(I could be wrong) ;-)




Jimmy


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 6:14 pm 
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Location: Prescott, AZ
Not a problem at all, the mod would be really easy, should only cost about $30 for you to take it to a welding shop and have them do it if you can't your self, I was planning on using a stainless steel elbow so that I wouldn't get rust on it, but from the pictures that I've seen of peoples headers from SRD I don't think I'll wasted my money on that. I'll just use a mild steel tube with an ID of around .5 inch, bent. drill the flange using a gasket as a template and then add a hole where it hits the down tube, and bingo, no CEL!!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 12:24 pm 
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Location: florida usa
does the g10 really need the egr valve and all that shit?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 7:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 12:47 am
Posts: 139
Location: Prescott, AZ
ok here are some pics of the prelims on the header, I don't have a TIG machine, or it would be done already, I need to try and borrow one as I would prefer not to wirefeed it........


Attachments:
File comment: Here is the flange.
IMG_1297.JPG
IMG_1297.JPG [ 365.19 KIB | Viewed 1461 times ]
File comment: Here is the tube.
IMG_1298.JPG
IMG_1298.JPG [ 408.61 KIB | Viewed 1457 times ]
File comment: The new egr tube.
IMG_1299.JPG
IMG_1299.JPG [ 606.89 KIB | Viewed 1460 times ]
File comment: A rough fit on the tube/flange joining.
IMG_1300.JPG
IMG_1300.JPG [ 439.83 KIB | Viewed 1458 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 3:04 am 
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Location: Regina, SK
Can you post a picture showing the flange face that meets the engine?

I has, idea, but need to see to be sure of it.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:15 am 
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Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 12:47 am
Posts: 139
Location: Prescott, AZ
I'll take one a little later on and post it...


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 12:47 am
Posts: 139
Location: Prescott, AZ
Here are a couple flange side pics.


Attachments:
IMG_1302.JPG
IMG_1302.JPG [ 365.11 KIB | Viewed 1457 times ]
IMG_1303.JPG
IMG_1303.JPG [ 464.35 KIB | Viewed 1456 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 12:47 am
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Location: Prescott, AZ
now i don't want anyone taking these pics and submitting the finger prints on the flange to the FBI......


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 2:10 am 
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Location: Regina, SK
Oh you got lucky, they ground off the lip of the pipe the curl over to make tack welding them easier.

On the back side of your flange, where the pipe exits, I'd make sure you get it fully welded. Seems in the shots they only welded along the bottom part.

It'll help keep your header from an early death.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:52 am 
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Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 12:47 am
Posts: 139
Location: Prescott, AZ
I've read a lot of that, but none of the other sets of headers that I've owned were ever welded on the back side, just on the gasket side. My BB and SB Chevy headers were all just tack welded on the tube side and then fully welded out on the inside...do these ones have a problem rusting out or something?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:39 am 
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Location: Regina, SK
When I got mine, I had rust creeping through where the pipe and the flange met.

But you see, mine still had the pipe lip on the inside of the exhaust header, so mine only got welded at the bottom of the of the pipe. So I hd to go in and get someone to weld it. When I took it in for ceramic coating, the guy running the place even commented on the welds 3/4 of the way around the pipes, and the distinct difference in quality compared to the rest of the header.

I also had rust creeping out from inbetween the pipes where they meet to form the collector. You can see the pics in my gallery, I stopped referring to it as an SRD header, because when I spent more to "finish" it, it became my own piece of work. 8)

I'd have the back side welded up, just to be on the safe side. Dunno how much weld there is on the on the front side, and the last thing you is the pipe corroding and giving you popping a real nasty leak.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 5:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 12:47 am
Posts: 139
Location: Prescott, AZ
well here is the finished EGR tube, not the best welding of my life but it will suffice. The machine I used was an OLD machine and there were a few problems with it, scratch start, gas solenoid non functional, but it got the job done and now I should be able to live without the check engine light on all the time, Now...getting the rest of the exhaust fabed up.....


Attachments:
IMG_1305.JPG
IMG_1305.JPG [ 347.2 KIB | Viewed 1457 times ]
IMG_1304.JPG
IMG_1304.JPG [ 330.12 KIB | Viewed 1455 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 6:42 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2009 2:17 pm
Posts: 10
Location: pittsburgh pa usa
So, this contradicts everything i have read. But I just passed PA emissions with the suzuki RD header, I got the stainless prototype :D with an O2 bung.

I barely failed the first time with no engine tune up. Idle Nox was 350 ppm, max 220ppm. passed the other 5 sections

replaced rotor, cap, plug wires, iridium +4 plugs, air and fuel filters, set ignition timing to 6 degrees (from 4), O2 sensor.

Got tested a 2nd time and passed with flying colors. 140ppm Nox

APPARENTLY YOU CAN PASS EMISSIONS WITH EGR BLOCKED AND SRD HEADERS!!!!

at least in my 92 xfi


Edit:forgot, my check engine light never came on when i installed the headers ( bulb does work.)


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 6:02 am 
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Location: Washington, DC
Does your car have an EGR system? They don't all have it from the factory.

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91 Pontiac Firefly Turbo
10 Suzuki Kizashi


Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 6:59 pm 
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Location: florida usa
mine 1994 geo metro 5door auto did. the egr system is a nightmare. it has 3cyl, auto and yes it was thw wagon!

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 8:55 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
in general, g10 engines 91 and back won't have an egr. the mk3 cars, 92 through 94 will have an egr with the 94 model having production changes throughout the year affecting different components. 95 was a transition year and from what i've seen has it's own special bastardizations of ecu functions and controls. still, it's considered obdII.

i'd lay a straight edge across the flange after welding in the egr port to make sure it didn't warp. the stock cast manifolds are really flat. a warped exhaust flange can really do a number on an aluminum head.

another thing about that design is that the runners are really long until they tie into the collector. there's no support bracket and all the vibration and flex gets transferred to the individual runners where they're welded at the flange. i'd be welding the runners on the outside of the flange. you'll never see the original welds cracking under the flange when it's bolted to the head.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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