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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 8:28 pm 
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Location: Jamaica W.I.
Hi has anyone packed their engine mounts with window sealant or urathane sealant?

I hear that this strengthens the mounts and improves engine feel and gear change .. it also helps to lessen / prevents wheel hop

Its a siple process to do .... using a caulk gun and urethane sealant you just fill the spaces in the mounts and set to cure for about 24 hours! then reinstall

Can anyone tell me of the advantages & dissadvantages of this mod ?

Thanks :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 8:51 pm 
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there was a discussion about it on the old board not too long ago. Once the search feature is fixed, you can look it up, had lots of info.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 8:59 pm 
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Oh the search feature is down ok .. cause i tried a search and nothing of great use came up ..
thanks i'll try again later!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 9:48 pm 
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Sikaflex or the like works great. Eliminates a lot of axle tramp. Transmits a little more vibration into the cabin...but who cares. :D

Not as hard as the urethane mounts but cheaper and less likely to stress the mounting points. Certainly better than stock mounts.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 10:04 pm 
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i have done it

i used pattex 'no more nails' glue
its used to glue metal together and i thik it works much better than urethane sealant
almost as good as pure urethane

BUT i suggest using new mounts and letting them dry for at least 2 days, if you use yoyr existsting mounts i suggest you degrease them thouroughly other wise the sealant will not stick to the rubber and vibration will loosen it


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 Post subject: Re: .....
PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 10:05 pm 
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OzMidnight wrote:
Not as hard as the urethane mounts.


ok well i used urethane sealant on my stock bushings ... so when my engine goes back in i'll see how muc hbetter it is!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 7:42 pm 
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I have '3M Windo-weld Urethane P/N 08609' to install in my mounts this winter. The local SC group suggested it as it is very stiff. It is usually used to glue in windshields in the newer cars and trucks. It is very tough as you couldn't chew it up with your teeth for an idea of how dense it is.

Later,
Mike 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 7:55 pm 
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You could also try seam sealer.Its urethane,but not as hard as the windshield stuff,and alot cheaper.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 8:45 pm 
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WE0H wrote:
I It is very tough as you couldn't chew it up with your teeth for an idea of how dense it is.

Later,
Mike 8)


speaking from experiance Mike :lol: ......or what :lol: .....

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 8:58 pm 
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qwall wrote:
WE0H wrote:
I It is very tough as you couldn't chew it up with your teeth for an idea of how dense it is.

Later,
Mike 8)


speaking from experiance Mike :lol: ......or what :lol: .....


Well I haven't tried chewing it up but damn if I can tear it up with my fingernails. It is some tough crap.

I got a smokin good deal also; FREE!!! No it wasn't a five finger discount; our family owns a few dealerships and I get parts for free. Thanks to dad for this one.

I'll goop 'em up later this winter along with the zillion other mods to do. I guess you have to do the rear brake swap this winter since you got your parts today. I'll go give YA an A+ in the 'Good Guy' section of this site.

Later,
Mike :alien:


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:45 am 
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I used heavy duty high temp hot melt glue in mine. Works fine so far.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2003 7:47 am 
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good to know i guess i can expect good things when these mounts go back in !


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2003 10:21 am 
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I haven't done my car but here is almost everything you probably want to know about making urethane motor mounts:

http://www.mr2sc.com/websites/tech/SolidMounts1.htm

http://www.mr2sc.com/websites/tech/SolidMounts2.htm

It's not from a swift but the theory's the same.
Ed


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 8:27 pm 
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I did this mod two years ago and found the urethane fill was not sturdy enough on the front passenger side mount. It oly lasted about 3-4 months before it was just as bad as my shot stock rubber mount. The other two mounts still look good though.

I pulled the one mount and cut out all the rubber. I then used an 80A hardness urethane casting liquid to make it solid urethane - it should be plenty sturdy now. I'm finishing some repairs in the next few weeks and should know for sure.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 12:43 pm 
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I have got the solid urethane casting compound in my car. It is a little noisy but I have not any problems tearing the firewall yet. It has about 10,000 miles on it. I will not trade it for any thing. I've only used a pint of the casting compound so far and have done the shifter mount as well as the roll resistor.

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 Post subject: Mounts
PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2003 1:35 pm 
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Greg, I had done the same as you a while back. I filled the stock mounts. Even the shifter mount. I just cleaned and roughen the rubber up. Have not broken one yet. But now as I am getting more power added. The motor still moves a bit. I am looking at building an engine steady. Or buying a strut brace with it from Suzitech.


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 Post subject: Re: Mounts
PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 12:35 am 
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92GT wrote:
Greg, I had done the same as you a while back. I filled the stock mounts. Even the shifter mount. I just cleaned and roughen the rubber up. Have not broken one yet. But now as I am getting more power added. The motor still moves a bit. I am looking at building an engine steady. Or buying a strut brace with it from Suzitech.


I'm only filling my mounts half-way. Hopefully it's the best between too much vibration and stiffer engine mounts. What about filling the shifter mount, is this the rubber piece that holds the shifting stick and makes it come back to centre ?

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Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 3:42 pm 
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okay, what happened is I bought a automotive glass-sealant compound, said it remains flexible and non-hardening. it's been about 20 hours and it's still soft. should i wait more, or did i buy the wrong product ?

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Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 5:20 pm 
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I waited 3 or 4 days if I remember correct. Filling them halfway I would have been nervous about them spitting the new nugget of urethane out..... I did mine full and it's not offensive. Give it a few more days, and then report back with your results-

It sounds like you used the correct stuff- about $15 or $20 for a caulking looking tube right?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 6:43 pm 
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airwerks wrote:
I waited 3 or 4 days if I remember correct. Filling them halfway I would have been nervous about them spitting the new nugget of urethane out..... I did mine full and it's not offensive. Give it a few more days, and then report back with your results-

It sounds like you used the correct stuff- about $15 or $20 for a caulking looking tube right?


BTW thanks for the reply , I was waiting for someone who could give their opinion :P
No it was $7 and they describe it as 'window urethane' . It's not the 3M brand but could be the same formula since it's described as a window sealant. It's what they had at the parts shop.

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Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 9:56 pm 
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Its such a coincidence that this thread has been resurrected! Only a couple days ago I asked a cousin who is flying in from Canada to bring me a cannister of window weld since our 3M distributor does not stock it. My engine is out and my mounts feel weak so I'm gonna do this.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 11:18 pm 
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I filled all mine in with JB weld (there wasn't much left of the rubber anyway).
Not good. Much too rattly. I removed them all and replaced most of them
new and a few old for the time being.
I have an older car that I filled in broken ones with simple silicone gasket
maker. They've been holding up for years.
I'm basically talking about the transmission tork strut mounts
and the side one on the head to the strut tower. Not the actual
front and rear block mounts (MK1 G10).


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 2:50 am 
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I used GE "100% polyurethane construction adhesive" to fill my spare set, $5 a tube at can tire. Gonna swap in the tranny torque mounts and top mount when I get a chance. I think they will work out good.

Scott

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 1:42 pm 
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TheSilverBullet wrote:
okay, what happened is I bought a automotive glass-sealant compound, said it remains flexible and non-hardening. it's been about 20 hours and it's still soft. should i wait more, or did i buy the wrong product ?


Okay well I definitely bought the wrong stuff, going to scoop it out as it has stayed soft like peanut butter.

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Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 10:34 pm 
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Well looked around the garage and so I'm trying a roof hole patcher, says quick drying . Looks like liquid tar. Packed one mount and leaving to dry over night.

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Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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