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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 1:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 8:57 pm
Posts: 89
Location: Portland, or
I just have one question what is so good about the SR20 Tb what does it do to bennefit a n/a car. I'm thinking of just keeping my car n/a so I need some options on how to get that horsepower for the least amount of cost. What kind of power would I be looking for if I put a nice cold air intake like the ones that go behind the bumper, sr20 tb, cams, header, and full cat back exhaust?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 8:06 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:55 pm
Posts: 524
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Quote:
I just have one question what is so good about the SR20 Tb what does it do to [benefit] a n/a car.


The SR20 TB is so "revered" in the swift community for 2 simple reasons.

a) It fits. VERY little modifications are required for you to put it on your GT.
b) It's bigger. The SR20 TB's can provide up to 60mm of diameter @ the butterfly, which is a big jump from the stock TB. (42mm i think? Maybe even less, been so long i can't remember.) If you hold up a stock TB and an SR20, even a smaller one like the 52mm i put in mine, you can see the difference CLEARLY, and it's almost laughable how small the stock one is.

The mechanical/scientific reason of why it works so much better is real easy. More flow. An engine is essentially a big, complex air pump, and the less restrictions that you can have on the flow, both in and out of the cylinders, the more potential for power to be generated.

Quote:
What kind of power would I be looking for if I put a nice cold air intake like the ones that go behind the bumper, sr20 tb, cams, header, and full cat back exhaust?


Add a good chip on there, and you'll be SOMEWHERE around 100hp at the wheels... give or take.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 11:15 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 8:57 pm
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Location: Portland, or
ok so what the heck am i supposed to do about the maf sensor that is super small


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 12:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2005 10:19 am
Posts: 361
Location: Canberra, Australlia
buy one that has been properly modified. Try markymark on www.redlinegti.com

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 1:09 am 
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Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:55 pm
Posts: 524
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Or you don't do anything about it. I know lots of members, including myself, that run larger throttle bodies, and not larger MAFs. Some claim boring MAF will screw up the readings, some claim to run a bored MAF with no problems. Others claim that you absolutely must run a larger MAF or there's no effect to a throttle body upgrade.

Opinions vary :D

From my perspective, i installed a larger SR20 TB, and as i said before, left my MAF stock. Pod filter is the only other intake mod aside from the TB, and there is absolutely no question in my mind of the improvement. Both myself and my roommate immediately noticed the increased throttle tip in, more useable mid range power and using my accelerometer based quarter mile timing/horsepower graphing, you could CLEARLY see where the car was no longer running out in the top end, but rather running stronger.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 7:11 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2004 9:44 am
Posts: 521
Location: Perth, Australia
Don't bother with those over the over the top air filter set-ups, you will gain little, and maintenance will increase. Just a good quality airfilter in the engine bay will do, a shield to protect it from general dust and heat would be a bonus.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 4:17 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 11:51 am
Posts: 167
Location: Australia
Ive read that when doing the SR20TB swap, you need to run an adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (AFPR) and bump up the fuel pressure to stop from leaning-out higher in the RPM's. Has anyone else heard this and if its true or not ?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 6:15 am 
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Location: Canberra, Australlia
Recommended if you have standard computer and map. Best to get it on a dyno and check your setup. FPR is a simple bandaid if not getting a properly mapped chip or aftermarket setup.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2007 1:44 pm
Posts: 29
Location: st george
put on a sr20 tb but what i want to know is how do u control the air like our stock tb with the air ajustment screw


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 3:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 11:34 pm
Posts: 319
Location: orlando, fl
so I assume you just go to a junkyard and pull one of these throttle bodies...

What model/year cars are they on?

Also, what is the recommended fuel pressure (I have an adjustable fpr on my car) with minor mods? Or is this something you need a wideband to determine?

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89 Swift GTI raced in ITB with the SCCA.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:24 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:55 pm
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Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Some people recommend using an AFPR to bump it to 42psi @ idle. Some people claim this will make it run overly rich regardless of throttle body. Personally, i played on the safe side and bumped it to 42. Rather run a little rich than a little lean.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 6:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 7:27 pm
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Location: Sunshine Coast
l4mbch0ps wrote:
Some people recommend using an AFPR to bump it to 42psi @ idle. Some people claim this will make it run overly rich regardless of throttle body. Personally, i played on the safe side and bumped it to 42. Rather run a little rich than a little lean.


Alot of people argue you don't need an aftermarket FPR or a modified fuel rail. I have had one mate lean out his engine and other people have shown DYNO evidence that the standard fuel rail and regulator works fine.

I was lucky and scored a Billet fuel rail and Sard FPR for cheap a few weeks before i did my SR20 (60mm) tb conversion. I got it dyno'd with the fuel reg at 45psi and got a AFR of 12-13.

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Those who watch and laugh don't understand. Those sit in the passenger seat get a rough idea. Hop behind the wheel and it will blow your mind...Swift GTi {drumer-z}


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