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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:56 pm
Posts: 414
Location: colorado river, arizona USA
Ok hear me out. I am pulling the N/A rods and slugs from my freshly machined/ assembled motor in a effort to diagnose a serious ring seal/ blowby issue..i"m thinking ring and or ring land damage. Bore scope says the walls look a-ok. The car has only been run a couple times, as well as a handfull of heat cycles. I'm attempting to keep the block in the car (if possible) and piston rod assys are getting pushed up through the bottom( 1 hour job. total, maybe..real ez with my setup).

I have also purchased some gti rods from strider to add while i am at it as well as some std 75mm vitaras. i am attempting to retain my fresh hollow wonder of a crank, as im not looking for extreme rpm and would like to minimize downtime (for now). a gti crank is a definate possibility if the motor has to be entirely pulled.

My real question concerns the effect of the reciprocating weight change(increase) and the partially counterbalanced design for us unfortunate americans and our hollow journal cranks that litter the land. I am wondering if the heavier rods and pistons are going to merrit dynamic balancing and mallory..i'd just go gti crank in that case.

Do you gurus think i will be ok with the extra mass swinging around on the 8v crank? Is there enough counter balance built in?

I am going vitaras for the real low(7.x:1) compression ratio(non intercooled roots blown) and gti rods for the compressive strength. I have concluded (based on archieved posts) that the cast crank is good for around 200 or so..Inquireing minds would like to know. I am unsure. thanks for the consideration.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:29 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:35 pm
Posts: 2433
Location: Regina, SK
I pushed 250psi without bending or breaking the cast rods and hollow crank on a G10. =)

200psi is basically stock for the 16V SOHC engine, and it uses the forged rods and hollow crank.

The biggest thing is to make DAMN sure you have no knock. Knock is a killer, a back fire at the wrong time will either bend or break stuff.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:46 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2004 9:48 am
Posts: 725
Location: Winnipeg
Don't worry about the rod/piston weight unless you're going for longevity in a very high rpm engine.
The Suzuki style crank is dynamic balanced without bobweights on the journals anyway, so you would find that your machine shop would change things very little anyway.

Good advice about the tuning given above too...my bent rods usually came while i was tuning/experimenting and had not got things sorted yet. ...backfire....opps, it's missing now! ...hmmmm, this piston doesn't come to the top anymore! :lol:

How much boost are you expecting from your creation?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 2:35 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:56 pm
Posts: 414
Location: colorado river, arizona USA
yeah, sounds about right. ive spent hours searching archieved posts. I think ill be ok...the car sees about 10 as soon as you give it wot. it is instant. I have seen 13 for a quick moment untuned..it also has seen 36* at 20lbs (discovered after the fact) for one good wot static rev... hasnt been right since...poor uneven compression, clean oil, clean water, no oil smoke.. just a lot of blow by. I think i lost some ring lands the same time i killed my head gasket. head gasket is A-ok now. bores look ok from a scope..im thinking everything is still intact but stuck between the rings...dont know untill i pull it... it is now at 15* a and much more conservative 10lbs...we shall see...


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