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 Post subject: exhaust system size 1.0L
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:48 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2008 5:09 pm
Posts: 56
Location: pasco,wa.
Im getting to the point where I need to build an exhaust system for my metro build.
The car:
97 geo metro 1.0l
ported and polished head
+10 cam sprocket
s.r.d.underdrive pulley
s.r.d.header
custom high flow air intake
non-cat

Ive read alot of you guys are going with a full 2" system on these cars.That seems huge to me but im a newb.I was concidering 1 3/4" system.

This is a n/a motor so I would think a certain amount of back pressure would be nessesary.But maybe not.Whats youre advice and why on the size of my exhaust system??


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:49 am 
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rockmike wrote:
Im getting to the point where I need to build an exhaust system for my metro build.
The car:
97 geo metro 1.0l
ported and polished head
+10 cam sprocket
s.r.d.underdrive pulley
s.r.d.header
custom high flow air intake
non-cat

Ive read alot of you guys are going with a full 2" system on these cars.That seems huge to me but im a newb.I was concidering 1 3/4" system.

This is a n/a motor so I would think a certain amount of back pressure would be nessesary.But maybe not.Whats youre advice and why on the size of my exhaust system??


stock GTi cat-back ( = cheap, readily available and perfect fit) should suit you just fine.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 1:18 pm 
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Posts: 56
Location: pasco,wa.
The pipe size of that system would be what??

More interested in building my own system,cause im just that way.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 2:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2008 5:09 pm
Posts: 56
Location: pasco,wa.
I cant seem to find any aftermarket mufflers that I can afford that will fit in the stock location.
I dont want one of those fart cans on my rig.What do you guys think about runnin 1 or 2 glass pack mufflers under the car about midway through, then just run the tail pipe out the back?

Or a guy could run the tail pipe just in front of the rear tire.I would think all the pipe going out the back is just along for the ride(meaning it hurts performance)

Opinions please,thanks Mike.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 4:11 pm 
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Why not use a GTi exhaust pan

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 6:46 pm 
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This is what I did on a budget.
Build yours accordingly
I stuck 2 glasspacks in there, and it sounded great.
Quote:
I got a little time today and pulled the exhaust off, and re-did it from front to back, re-using only the 2" section from the axle back.
It turns out that there are 2 different down pipes. The one pulled from the 95 parts car looked mint, and appeared to be 2". When I cut the cat off, I found out that it was double piped with the inside one being 1.5". I thought they were all like this. Another one that I had measured up at 1.75", so I cut off the cat, and found out that it was not double walled, and was actually 1.75" from the flange back. Guess which one I used?
A section of 1.875" slipped right over the 1.75", and went back to a 2" glasspack salvaged from a turbo parts car. from there I hooked up the 2" axle back piece.
WOW what a difference!!
It pulls much, much harder, but only to about 6000, where it levels off (but keeps on screaming effortlessly right to 7K). Before it would pull to 7k, but not nearly as hard, and after each shift, it would take a long time to get back in the powerband, and overcome the drop in RPM (all you 3cyl. guys know this feeling!). It no longer does this. When you shift, it starts pulling right where it left off.
The only problem is that its a little (actually alot) farty sounding, especially when letting off the throttle at high RPM's. I think I'll hack a section off the back piece and add another glasspack. I have a short 22" one that should fit right in there.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 7:29 pm 
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i'm sort of partial to cutting off the flange that bolts to the exhaust manifold and welding it to a fabricated 2" pipe made in 2 pieces that fits like the stock pipe. i connect that to an oem fitment replacement muffler.

the stock muffler provides just enough restriction to allow for decent low end torque while not being too loud at highway speeds. i've never failed a safety inspection/ sniffer test with that set up, either.

whatever you do with the exhaust, make sure that your induction balances with it. a restricted intake is every bit as bad as too small of an exhaust.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 1:29 pm 
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Location: pasco,wa.
suprf1y wrote:
This is what I did on a budget.
Build yours accordingly
I stuck 2 glasspacks in there, and it sounded great.
Quote:
I got a little time today and pulled the exhaust off, and re-did it from front to back, re-using only the 2" section from the axle back.
It turns out that there are 2 different down pipes. The one pulled from the 95 parts car looked mint, and appeared to be 2". When I cut the cat off, I found out that it was double piped with the inside one being 1.5". I thought they were all like this. Another one that I had measured up at 1.75", so I cut off the cat, and found out that it was not double walled, and was actually 1.75" from the flange back. Guess which one I used?
A section of 1.875" slipped right over the 1.75", and went back to a 2" glasspack salvaged from a turbo parts car. from there I hooked up the 2" axle back piece.
WOW what a difference!!
It pulls much, much harder, but only to about 6000, where it levels off (but keeps on screaming effortlessly right to 7K). Before it would pull to 7k, but not nearly as hard, and after each shift, it would take a long time to get back in the powerband, and overcome the drop in RPM (all you 3cyl. guys know this feeling!). It no longer does this. When you shift, it starts pulling right where it left off.
The only problem is that its a little (actually alot) farty sounding, especially when letting off the throttle at high RPM's. I think I'll hack a section off the back piece and add another glasspack. I have a short 22" one that should fit right in there.


Thank you sir,appreciate youre post.I didnt find that one, when I did my search.That was exactly what I was looking for.So my assumtion seems about right 2 glass packs would sound good.Im going to run 17/8" pipe.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 1:55 pm 
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Location: pasco,wa.
t3 ragtop wrote:
i'm sort of partial to cutting off the flange that bolts to the exhaust manifold and welding it to a fabricated 2" pipe made in 2 pieces that fits like the stock pipe. i connect that to an oem fitment replacement muffler.

the stock muffler provides just enough restriction to allow for decent low end torque while not being too loud at highway speeds. i've never failed a safety inspection/ sniffer test with that set up, either.

whatever you do with the exhaust, make sure that your induction balances with it. a restricted intake is every bit as bad as too small of an exhaust.


whatever you do with the exhaust, make sure that your induction balances with it. a restricted intake is every bit as bad as too small of an exhaust.

Agreed ,one or the other mod helps but both together is what really makes the differance.And its not what you do to a rig,its more about the combination. For the rig mods need to compliment the others.I feel like im a modified cam and ecu chip away from a sweet combo,when I get the funds to do the cam and chip ill be asking for advice on that.Appreciate youre help,thanks Mike.


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 Post subject: update
PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 1:15 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2008 5:09 pm
Posts: 56
Location: pasco,wa.
The 1 7/8" pipe and 2 24" glass packs sounds real good guys.Very happy with it,nice deep tone.At first when I fried it up in the shop it seemed kinda loud.But on my test run its not that loud at all,no hint of that ricey high pitch shit I hate so much.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 1:12 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 12:47 am
Posts: 139
Location: Prescott, AZ
I've been looking at doing my exhaust as well, only thing really holding me up was trying to find a muffler that didn't have that ricer sound, as I drive 200+ miles per day, I really don't want a head ache when I get to work in the AM after that 95mi commute. I was kinda hoping to stay away from glass packs as they always seem to burn out so damn fast, any thoughts on other mufflers?

I am planing on sticking to 1.75 or 2 inch tube as well, perhaps 1.7/8 is the way to go? I have one of the Suzuki RD headers that I'm going to be tossing in the mix, (mine actually showed up with all welds finished and fits perfectly) I just need to fabricate an elbow to put some gasses thru the EGR as I don't want to have that stupid check engine light on all the time.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 6:09 pm 
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Posts: 139
Location: Prescott, AZ
and here is that egr tube...


viewtopic.php?f=11&t=38760


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 10:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 12:50 pm
Posts: 61
Location: South Gate California
This is my car with magna flow an dual exhaust and 2 " pipe with camaro type tail pipe on each side


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 5:13 pm
Posts: 20
Location: England
im going to sound stupid now but can anybody tell me wat a glasspack is

im interested in opening my 3 cyl exhaust system but dunno wat a glasspack is??


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:48 pm 
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Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
http://www.cherrybomb.com/products/glasspack

That is a glasspack. I am doing 2 on mine and using the 87522 or 87521 as the muffler as the length and everything is perfect for the stock location. They even have a S/S insert to finish it off. I am going to run either the 87507 or 87510 in the longer straight run after the cat. Can't wait.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 8:06 pm 
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Location: Missouri USA
I posted elsewhere, but I will post again here, that I have had a Harley Davidson Factory Sportster with 1 hole drilled in it (by others before I got it) on my 99 for almost 3 years now. Works and sounds great.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 11:30 am 
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Posts: 139
Location: Prescott, AZ
daddy65069 wrote:
I posted elsewhere, but I will post again here, that I have had a Harley Davidson Factory Sportster with 1 hole drilled in it (by others before I got it) on my 99 for almost 3 years now. Works and sounds great.



I'm guessing that it (the hole) would be at the low point in the exhaust, a lot of factory exhaust systems have a hole to drain off condensation in the pipes, to prevent it from collecting...


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 2:16 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 5:22 pm
Posts: 92
Location: ZH
TGstring wrote:
rockmike wrote:
Im getting to the point where I need to build an exhaust system for my metro build.
The car:
97 geo metro 1.0l
ported and polished head
+10 cam sprocket
s.r.d.underdrive pulley
s.r.d.header
custom high flow air intake
non-cat

Ive read alot of you guys are going with a full 2" system on these cars.That seems huge to me but im a newb.I was concidering 1 3/4" system.

This is a n/a motor so I would think a certain amount of back pressure would be nessesary.But maybe not.Whats youre advice and why on the size of my exhaust system??


stock GTi cat-back ( = cheap, readily available and perfect fit) should suit you just fine.


I also have a 1.0, but is a gti cat-back just mount or do you modify other things? I thought the GTI had a bigger pipe.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 11:32 am 
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Location: Oss, the Netherlands
I just compared my (1.0) catback with my GF's (GTi) and the pipe is the same diameter, the muffler is bigger though, so that should help. I'm thinking of buying a Bosal catback, but first I have to get rid of the cat itself. :D

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'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:04 am 
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Location: Sacramento CA
Glasspacks sounds pretty good but the fiberglass breaks down after awhile and car gets louder and louder.

I kept the pipe stock diameter to the cat inlet. Had the shop install a new cat and then new 2" pipe layed all the way back to stock exit. I use the stainless steel ricer mufflers but not the 3" outlet ones. These have a removeable silencer that is a 1 3/4" outlet. It is nice a deep sounding like a stock gixxer. But using this type of muffler allows you to adjust your sound by pulling the silencer (one bolt) and inserting your own packing. I use stainless steel wool for packing to adjust back pressure and sound.

I guess I like to have options that I can control :D

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 1:14 pm 
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Location: Oss, the Netherlands
I went out and got a bosal catback today. It was an instant bolt-on. Muffler is much bigger and has a double tailpipe, but it fits right where it should. Didn't have to cut the bumper or anything. The sound is great too :D :D , same as before, but with a much deeper tone. When I feel at the tailpipes, it 'flows', where the stock pipe kind of 'puffed', if you know what I mean :lol: As for performance, I think she's a bit quicker now, but I haven't tested properly yet. Tonight I will. I'm very happy with it so far.

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'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 6:16 pm 
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Location: Holden Alberta
as some of you know, on my g10 performance build I'm running 2 1/4" from the header collector back. all mandrel bends, tig welded with 2 glass packs (with a 3" X 6" cancelation zone) and a home made resonator muffler. the requirement for back pressure is a myth... engines exist in vaccuum, why the hell would you want your exhaust pressureized?!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 11:15 pm 
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Location: Holden Alberta
i think i'm going to do a wright-up on basic (performance) exhaust theory to assist those wishing to build their own system.
i feel there are too many misconseptions reguarding exhaust systems as a whole. alot of it is fueled by marketing and even more by simple personal ignorance... :thwack: remember, you can be right for all the wrong reasons, :dunno: so of course take every thing i'll be saying with a grain of salt. there is way more going on in a system than meets the eye, so please keep in mind, each component has a very important roll and can have a very large impact on the rest of the system.
so i will also invite you to :search: around a little yourself if you feel i'm wrong. i have done alot of research and think it's time we have a good referance post like this kicking around for others.

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The other 5% are good 'ol Alberta boys saying "Hear, hold my beer... NOW WATCH THIS!!!".
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 4:01 am 
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So if no back pressure is so good... Why do 4-2-1 headers yield more hp/torque in the low/mid rpm range than say a 4-1 'race' header?

Also, High Flow Catalytic Converters are far superior than the OEM ones in that they, flow more, kill the rasp, keep the exhaust stink away, and do still signifigantly reduce the amount of nasty chemicals that make it out into the air we breathe. Oh and they are like 1/10th the cost... :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 7:03 am 
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gamefoo21 wrote:
So if no back pressure is so good... Why do 4-2-1 headers yield more hp/torque in the low/mid rpm range than say a 4-1 'race' header?



Exhaust gas velocity. and scavenging.

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