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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 2:57 am 

Joined: Sun Apr 07, 2013 4:01 am
Posts: 87
Location: AZ
The vinyl part of my 88 Sprint turbo dash was a hot mess
Dashcracks.jpg [ 61.17 KIB | Viewed 966 times ]
and I decided that I needed to try to do something. Looked simple after watching this video Not quite this simple. I did mine with the dash board intact (not removed from the car & windshield in). The vinyl came off with a heat gun in pieces and flakes. The problem then was the urethane sponge dash padding underneath had a lot of cracks raised areas and old burnt brown foam. So I decided that the worst parts would be cut out and replaced with a spray urethane foam Great Stuff (GS) Window &DOOR.
GSw&door.jpg [ 20.84 KIB | Viewed 966 times ]
Placed masking tape/paper all around the dash padding followed by cutting out old foam around the big cracks, cleaned areas w/ acetone and filled in with GS. Also places where holes/crevices etc found in the foam were filled in as well. The GS is somewhat pliable before and while setting so I tried to shape it as close to original/desired shape.
GSfilled1.jpg [ 98.55 KIB | Viewed 966 times ]
GSfilled2.jpg [ 106.2 KIB | Viewed 966 times ]
After overnight curing, I used an extended hack saw blade to get things close and sanded down the rest best I could.

New dash installation.
Looked all over the web and found/summed up the following

choose marine vinyl as it is UV resistant, i.e. regular vinyl is not >> Went to JoAnn's Fabric store and bought some Navy blue Marine vinyl.

Contact cement should be high temp i.e scotch 77 was said to not be good in heat. 80 or 90 was considered OK. Weldwood Contact cement red can (original) some say yes, others emphatically no. The best, used by upholstery shops, was DAP Weldwood HHR (High Heat Resistant) except the smallest unit is a gallon at $32. I chose "Scotch 98 High Temp Contact Cement" from Lowes' which was $16 for a 20 oz. can.

Cut the vinyl into a piece with lots of extra space for adjustment error etc.. Wiped all areas glued with acetone & sprayed 2 coats contact cement on both dash foam.board and new vinyl material waiting 6-7 minutes before laying pieces together. I started on the left side (next to the steering wheel) and worked it to the right in sections. Cut the center console, glove box and vent holes as I went along leaving extra overlap until final trimming. Once I got all the new vinyl glued down I trimmed with small scissors & razor knife with at least a 1/2" extra vinyl over the grey solid plastic interface areas. I went around with a screw drive and tucked that 1/2" below the solid plastic and trimmed anything that wouldn't go under (this tuck part is really important). Here's the new dash not a perfect job but looks orders of magnitude better than my old dash.
Newdashlook.jpg [ 57.03 KIB | Viewed 966 times ]

Lesson I learned that would make this a better job next time.

I thought the vinyl would cover small imperfections in the underlying foam repairs. it didn't hide them that well. I subsequently learned that GS will not stick to wax paper so it can be used to make exact molds of the dashpadding, which I wish I knew before. I would also use the cheaper GS product called Big Gap Filler, as it is denser (less air pockets) than the GS window sealer.

The Scotch 98 High Contact cement didn't work as well as it should of for the price. I re-vinyled my door cards and needed more contact cement 1/2 way through the 2nd door card. Went to Lowe's and bought some Loctite® Spray Adhesive Professional Performance 300 and that outperformed the Scotch 98 and was less than $10.

PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 7:47 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
So how much for materials, total?

DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
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DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:39 pm 

Joined: Sun Apr 07, 2013 4:01 am
Posts: 87
Location: AZ
Cost here was for the dash and both door cards.

-1.194 yrds. (45") of Marine Vinyl (comes in 55" rolls) w/ a 50% off JoAnn online coupon for $10.74 (normal $17.99/yrd). This was enough to do the dash and both door panels. You can buy any length of the 55" rolls if one wants to just do the dash i.e 55" x #.

-Great Stuff was $4.50 (used less than 1/2 can) and the contact cement was $16 for the 20 oz. Scotch 98 + $9 for the 15 oz. Loctite 300 (needed only 1/4 can of Loctite) . All at Lowe's.

So dash and both door panels done for roughly $40.

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