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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 2:39 pm 

Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2008 5:48 pm
Posts: 100
Location: Norway
I have a very korroded block and gearbox (on outside) in my gti.
Anybody have som nice tips how to get it clean and shiny again. Someone ever painted head, block and gearbox?

PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2002 5:26 pm
Posts: 1939
Location: Etobicoke, Ontario
well your going to have to start with the obvious and use an engine degreaser and high temp high pressure washer to get all the gunk off..

After that I would use a scotch-brite pad and a wire brush and scrub the aluminum to remove the corrosion..

From there some hightemp engine paint; colour of your choosing should lay down nicely..

Don't forget to mask off stuff you dont want to paint!

"Don't argue with stupid people. They just bring you down to their level and then beat you with experience."

PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 4:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11679
Location: columbus, ohio
i used a wire wheel brush on an electric drill to knock the crust off the twincam engine i used in my red vert. this pic shows the places i cleaned and what it looked like before i ran the wire wheel.

i used a matte finish high ceramic content/ high temperature silicone based black paint, in a quart can through an outfit named eastwood company. it's a 500 degree f paint that maintains it's finish for a long time. in a gloss finish, which i have used on other projects in gloss black and vintage chevy gray, maintains it's gloss for years. the engine block on my turbo3 is still very shiny in the chevy gray. here's the red vert's twincam in the matte black.

i highly suggest that you use a powder coat finish on the valve cover. for some reason all the valve covers i have painted just look bad after a year or 2. powder coating holds up to chipping and color fading for many years. this valve cover was on this black engine for a year.

i swapped out the valve cover for this one in a different powder coating.

i also got so very tired of building cars only to have them look "tired" after a year in our climate. paint just starts to look bad after about a year while powder coating is much more durable. i just found a great powder coater and kept sending him parts for my project car, batch after batch, until i had nearly every bracket, cover, and mount on the car powder coated using maybe 3 colors as a theme for everything. even the springs on my car are powder coated. wheels, windshield wipers, suspension bushing clamps, the covers on the bottom for the fuel and brake lines, brake caliper yokes, license plate frames - it's hard to find parts on the car that have not been powder coated in silver vein powder.

i also replaced every bolt, nut, and washer i touched with stainless steel hardware. the humidity and winter use of salt on roads here also turns hardware into rust balls within 2 or 3 years and that appearance turns me off as well. :blackeye:

1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 3:42 pm 

Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 10:43 pm
Posts: 720
Location: Texas 75150
What T3 is doing works extremely well. He always does great work.
I took a different approach to the bad corrosion. The black pitting of the aluminum
goes so deep that removal is impossible.
I use glass beading to do my finish work. It will get both the outside and the inside
of Blocks, heads, and transmission cases clean. I also hear that soda blasting will work
as good as glass beading, and you can just wash with water the soda residue out of the oil
galleys with a water hose. With glass you either block off all the holes or spend a lot more
time scrubbing the everything clean of glass beads.
3491 shows an engine block with all the holes plugged off ready for glass beading.

IMG_3491R.JPG [ 553.64 KIB | Viewed 1381 times ]

3493 shows a part of the block blasted.

IMG_3493R.JPG [ 577.41 KIB | Viewed 1381 times ]

The trick to keeping the aluminum looking bright and shiney is once they come out of the glass beader,
I spray them with a good high temp coat of clear paint. On the aluminum that is still showing black pitting
I use some flat aluminum paint to cover the pitting then high temp clear to seal the aluminum.
3212 shows a set of GT transmission cases after the glass beading and clear coat. Note the addition hole for the
lower engine to transmission housing support bracket. All external bolts get
glassed beaded then a hot tank black oxide finish. I hate rusty bolts on a rebuild.

IMG_3212.JPG [ 518.82 KIB | Viewed 1381 times ]

3255 shows a DOHC engine and GT transmission getting close to installation.
I used high temp semi gloss black to paint all the mounts and brackets. Glassed beading them 1st to remove
the years of crude.

IMG_3255.JPG [ 571.3 KIB | Viewed 1381 times ]

I would also recommend that you get taps and dies to chase all of the threads before you assemble
the engine and transmission. Don't do the rod bolts or nuts. As this will blow up your engine.

97 Geo Metro LSI,1.3L-GT-DOHC-16v,4.10 5-speed,A/C,170,000,suspension lowered 1",4 wheel disk brakes,15"alloy wheels with 185/50-15 Toyo's,GT bucket seats,analog oil pressure gauge,cruise control, new paint job. 40 mpg at 65 mph.
Good, fast, cheap. You only get two.

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