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 Post subject: 12" box size.....
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2006 11:38 pm 
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Location: New Hampshire
i'm mounting 2 12" subs in my mk2, and what i was hoping i could do is build a deck that's mounted on my back seat so when i fold it down the deck comes w/ it so i can still get to my spare..... so i was wondering if anybody had some design ideas.... i don't know stereo systems well so i was hoping i could get some help w/ this design.... thanks.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 2:11 am 
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Aside from mounting the enclosure right to the seat I can't see how else you would do it.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 3:10 am 
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or mount the sub in a custom enclosure behind the wheel well on the side of the car.. can get access to spare and still fold down the seats for more space.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:19 am 
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another thing i was curious about is that my woofer system is gonna be 1000W set up.... so will i need a capacitor, or a new alternator or both.... like i said i'm a bit clueless to stereos, so all the help i could get would be greatly appreciated....

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:54 am 
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don't bother with a capacitor, they are virtually ineffective for storing enough energy for anything other than a transient peak. they won't hold enough energy to maintain the system voltage long term.

as a matter of fact, the inrush current to charge the capacitor will cause a high initial load on your alternator. the alternator is pushing pretty hard at start up to recharge the battery and adding the capacitor just loads up the alternator more.

you will need to install a cable from your battery to the physical location of your 1000 watt amp to carry the roughly 80 amps that the power amplifier will use at full output. better figure on using a 4 gauge cable fused for 85 amps. a higher output alternator would be really nice. if you're running a 3 banger the alternator is probably only rated at a 35 amp output. the gt cars run a 55 amp alternator. if you run your 1000 watt system you'll be losing about 55 amps (with a 35 amp charge rate) with every hour of operation which will drop your battery voltage over time. that loads the entire electrical system even more. most amps will have safety circuits that will shut them down when the voltage drops below a certain limit to protect the amp's electronics.

swapping a 35 amp alternator to a 55 amp unit is a bolt on deal. anything else requires a fat wallet. a GM 105 amp alternator would be an attractive modification but fitting a new set of bracketry to mount it would probably be a good project in itself.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:11 am 
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so when i go to napa to get a new alternator... do just tell them i need 55 amp alt for my metro..... im still a bit confused sorry about all this...

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 12:18 pm 
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50MPHippy wrote:
so when i go to napa to get a new alternator... do just tell them i need 55 amp alt for my metro..... im still a bit confused sorry about all this...


Tell them you want the alternator for a Swift GT. In simple terms your amp draws more power than your electrical system can adequately supply current to. Idealy you will want to try and custom fit a larger alternator than the factory one. As Richard said the GM's work well but take custom brackets to fit them. If you can't spring for a new alternator setup at least get the larger GT alternator. Every little bit helps. Just an FYI...I ran a 400W MTX Class A amp in my Swifts for a while and made a small collection of fried alternators. 1000W just adds to the workload of the amp.

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