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 Post subject: Dynamat Feedback
PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:14 am
Posts: 107
Location: Winnipeg
Anyone who has ever installed dynamat into there car come chime in here. Let us know how it went for you, if it fixed the problem, how much you needed, how happy you were with it etc. I'm thinking about putting this stuff in to minimize the rattles at the hatch and im sure there lots of others debating on this stuff. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 3:50 pm 
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King of Pompous
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Really depends on the type of rattles your trying to get rid of. Many can be fixed by tightening loose panels or using foam between two parts that are contacting each other. Dynamat has its place but please don't get the idea that a square foot of the stuff will be a night and day difference. It takes a good amount to deaden a car or body panel properly. This goes with Dynamat or any of the other brands.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 4:21 am 
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Sad but True...
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5 layers on the doors,3 layers on the roof and 3 layers on the floor in the 1996 Metro I had years ago.The door shut with a solid "THUD" and when you knocked on the panels was a solid "Thud". I used 2 layers of Dynamat Original on the floor,and one if that Dynamat stuff that had the silver backing on it,5 layers of the silver backing Dynamat on the doors, and 1 silver backing,and 2 layers of Stinger "Pro Roadkill" on the roof.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 6:46 am 
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Location: Perth, Australia
allmtrswft wrote:
5 layers on the doors,3 layers on the roof and 3 layers on the floor in the 1996 Metro I had years ago.The door shut with a solid "THUD" and when you knocked on the panels was a solid "Thud". I used 2 layers of Dynamat Original on the floor,and one if that Dynamat stuff that had the silver backing on it,5 layers of the silver backing Dynamat on the doors, and 1 silver backing,and 2 layers of Stinger "Pro Roadkill" on the roof.


How did you get the door trim back on? I had enough trouble getting it on with only 1 layer!! Talk about over kill!!

I use Dynamat on my front doors atm, no speaker as yet, but I've used Dynamat before, and know the results will be amazing.

Here are a few pics

Image
Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 5:06 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Your Dynamat looks similar to my "Second Skin", but I put it on the inside.

http://www.teamswift.net/album_page.php?pic_id=10244

Still haven't tested it on the road, but am hoping for results similar to yours.
Any suggestions for a decibel tester?

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 10:59 pm 
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Yeah I'm a real slack cat, I did the sound deadening nearly 2 years ago! No speakers in yet, I want to get some custom door pods done so I gotta organize that, and i've been more focused on HP than tunes lately.

Do you mean a DB test inside the cabin after the sound deadening? Honestly I didn't notice a real change in DB from outside after I did the sound deadening, I've only done my doors thou. Been told the best place to quieten down your car in the hood and inside the wheel arches. But no quanity will quieten my car down, its one loud rattleing thing!

You do get that nice 'thump' closing of the doors, which sounds better than the rattleing tin it was before! But I am a bit concerned of door sag over time.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 11:07 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Yeah, inside the cabin. Some guys on this site have posted "65 decibel levels "versus a louder one, and I was wondering how a guy could check it. That is - if there's a cheap way to measure the sound inside the car before and after.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
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DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 2:17 am 
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Well you could take a measurment of the cabin noise before you did the mat. You would need to induce a repeatable level of noise (say like having some pink noise played outside the car at x loudness) that could be measured with an RTA or Termlab. Not likely something that can be done for nothing but I suppose you could sweet talk a shop into using the excercise as a demo for future customers ;).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 4:59 am 
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I had a 1996 Metro.The Dynamat was applied to the inside of the door,not where the door met with the door panel.The Cloth faced Cardboard roof was easy,but was mainly out,so I didnt damage it when bringing in/taking out/building walls. Overkill?Naw,when you are competing(At least what I was doing)people were filling their floors with Concrete!

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1991 Suzuki Swift GT.
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If my Swift was as fast as Tg or m's car I'd be famous...
My car is a trailer queen 'cause it's too slow to merge safely into traffic


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 12:05 am 
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allmtrswft wrote:
people were filling their floors with Concrete!


Well I guess they can kiss there resale value on their car good bye!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 12:16 am 
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Hertz wrote:
Well I guess they can kiss there resale value on their car good bye!!



I've never seen a full blown SPL car have any kind of resale value worth mentioning ;).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 6:35 pm 
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Location: az
Has any one tryed this stuff? http://www.fatmat.com/


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