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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 9:20 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:00 am
Posts: 89
Now, because Mk1 swifts had basic radio/cassette stereo's, and had no clock or electronic presets to upkeep, and they didnt draw much current, they didnt have a 12v battery wire (white in Mk2 and 3) in the factory harness. So one is needed, one would just run a 12 gauge wire with fuse from the battery, but I have a better solution, take it from the ignition switch batt wire, usually white/green on the car side of the harness or white on the switch side of the harness. i just used a scotch-lok wire tap connector. easy and works like a charm. Remember, the batt wire on a stereo is not just for memory, it supplies all power when running, the acc wire is to tell the unit to turn on and off with the key. And i have replaced that wire nut type connector with soldering and heatshrinking.

here is a pic

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 2:14 am 
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Sad but True...

Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:20 pm
Posts: 2973
Location: Saskatchewan
without even reading the thread, the best place anytime to ever get a constant 12V is a fused line directly from the battery. and always go thicker than you plan on running. theres a chart for how much power you expect to use vs the guage of the wire somewhere on the net


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 4:33 am 
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Mk1 fiend
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Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2006 7:37 am
Posts: 296
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Well actually both the Mk1 Suzuki Swift and Holden Barina's (being the same thing) did have a 12v battery/constant wire in the harness separate to the White Green ignition that you have used.

The white yellow (WY) fed most of the operational prefuse for the constants such as horn, interior, distributor, light switches etc etc and many of the radio/cassettes that were sold as factory in the cars (both Suzuki/Barina) also had presets and also fed off this wiring. The WY was also used as a wire from the alternator on some models as against the WG often used.

The white wires on a Mk1 only fed the horn and interior lights after the fuse box.

This is the same wiring on the standard models as well as the GTi .. the GTi having constants including clock as well.

I do not know if this relates to the US and European Mk1 models and the many derivatives.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 7:34 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:00 am
Posts: 89
but did the batt wire in the radio harness have its own fuse? cos remember, with that old radio, all the running power would have been fed by the acc wire, not the constant like it is today with aftermarket head units. and even if it was drawn from the constant, the radios back then had no meaningful current to worry about. The ones these days DO.

Look at any decent aftermarket CD/Tuner these days, and you will find that the yellow BATT wire is larger then the ACC wire, which is only for switching.

With the wiring from battery to the car in MK1's, in the earlier ones, or MB Barina's ('85 - oct '86) there was only 1 wire, a white/yellow one which fed the whole car and was the charging wire as well. On ML Barina's (oct '86 - '88) they revised it and ran a seperate circuit (white/green) for the ignition switch and alternator charging. Seeing as this wire would have the least current draw at night, I used it.
especially at night where the head/taillights are on, drawing about 22 amps and then i crank up the stereo drawing 8 amps, that would really be pushing the limit of the fusible link and the cable itself, which is about 12 gauge (25 amp current capacity)

The factory harness had been cut out when i got it and new speaker wires had already been run to the rear, they still used the front speaker wiring but that didnt last long, they had run a fig 8 cable from the battery for power and ground to the HU, mind u there was no fuse or anything and the cables were wedged under the battery terminals. The only power wire they had used was the ACC wire (white/black) and the cigarette lighter socket wasn't connected. I have upgraded the wiring for the lighter socket and run the power wire straight to the ACC wire on the ignition switch. That way I can safely draw 15 amps when using my inverter.

I have checked everywhere behind my dashboard, I cannot find the constant 12v wire, i DID find a connector (see pic) far up underneath the dash on the passenger side that had ACC, BATT (from the dome/horn, go figure) and a whole bunch of other wires, and just maybe on the cars that were destined to have the radio/cassette that u mention, they connected an extension harness to that and ran it to the dashboard.

anyhow thats my 2 cents.
ben


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