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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 11:46 pm 
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
I am running a JL 500/1 amp, and it cuts out badly, I want a new alternator and battery.

Since the stock alternator is a measly 55 amps, which alternators will fit these cars with no modifications?

Thanks a bundle guys!


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 8:18 am 
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It shouldn't be cutting out that badly. Isn't the JL a class D? I've run 1200W Class D amps with some dimming but nothing hard enough to power it down. Might want to test your alt and see if maybe its a little tired. Have you upgraded all the grounds/power under the hood?

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 Post subject: alt.
PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 12:18 pm 
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I actually ran one of those for quite a while, when i first got it I installed it on an 81 toyota celica and i know that alt. wasnt all that beefy either but never had probs out of it. now that i have another amp i just put in my metro i made a simple mistake, when running it i put it on lowpass filter and then plugged in my left AND right rca plugs. :oops: then proceeded to run the amp in a bridged mode, and it was cutting out, so after tinkering and then it dawned on me I pulled one rca plug out and now it operates quite well. so it may just be simply that. :D

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trying to go turbo but the wife thinks it will cost too much for my 93 metro so now i have to "wheel & deal" my way there, any help would be great.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 2:43 pm 
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What?

Pull out an RCA?

I am so confused right now...


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 Post subject: alt.
PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 3:54 pm 
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yes. if you are running that amp in the bridged manner then you may only need one rca plugged into the amp, i cant remember that for sure but it is a quick and fast check. it is considered a "monoblock" meaning you can run the positive from one side (left or right dont know) and the negative from the other to "bridge"....here im kinda in a time crunch try this
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps ... page_id=30
that should help if not just go to http://www.jlaudio.com and you should be able to find all the info needed.

and yes "m" it is a class d amp. :D

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trying to go turbo but the wife thinks it will cost too much for my 93 metro so now i have to "wheel & deal" my way there, any help would be great.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 5:46 pm 
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to run an amp in a bridged mode, the circuitry that enables bridging inverts the input signal to one channel while the other side remains normally connected. low frequency audio usually is mixed in a mono configuration so that the left and right channels recieve the same signal.

if one channel is inverted and you connect the speaker's voice coil between the outputs of both channel, the signal out from the amp on one channel swings high while the other one reacts to the low side. the increased voltage between the high and low peaks generates a lot more current developed at the voice coil.

if the amp you are using is truly configured in a bridged stereo mode, pulling one rca cable cuts the output current. some amps are set up so that you throw the switch and only plug the left rca cable in for an input. it all depends on the circuit design but the ones that drive both channels with one inverted put out a lot more current.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 10:05 pm 
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I suppose the other thing to check is to make sure the subs are wired up right and not at too low an impedance for the amp. If you decide to replace the alt and bat you have a few choices. To the best of my knowledge there is no direct replacement high output alt for the Swift. You need to make a bracket and then use an alternator from a different vehicle. I would use a GM unit becasue they are very common and there are dozens of high output versions. Battery wise I like Odyssey by far. I used the Optimas in the past and they were great but IMO the Odysseys are built better. If you aren't playing the stereo while the car is off and you want to save some ching just get a good quality batter from your local parts source and you should be fine.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 10:49 pm 
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there's an internet order house that serves the samuri and tracker community who sells a conversion kit for the sohc 4 cylinder 1.3. i've heard that it works on the metro/ swift variants, too. you can buy just the brackets or the full set which includes a one wire, gm style alternator.

the name of the merchant escapes me but it's here in the archives somewhere.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 4:28 pm 
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When you say that it's cutting out, do you mean when the bass hits hard or do you mean that it goes off completely? If it's while the bass is hitting hard, you might check the ground (make sure that there is no paint between the terminal & body) & power connections (it is going straight to the battery with at least 8 gauge & preferably 4 gauge right?). Might be chocking the thing for power. You should never have problems with the amp cutting out even with the alternator completely dead. 12v is plenty to run the amp from the battery straight (unless the battery is bad). So, you most likely have a wiring issue.

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What is normal anyway?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 5:20 pm 
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
normalicy wrote:
When you say that it's cutting out, do you mean when the bass hits hard or do you mean that it goes off completely? If it's while the bass is hitting hard, you might check the ground (make sure that there is no paint between the terminal & body) & power connections (it is going straight to the battery with at least 8 gauge & preferably 4 gauge right?). Might be chocking the thing for power. You should never have problems with the amp cutting out even with the alternator completely dead. 12v is plenty to run the amp from the battery straight (unless the battery is bad). So, you most likely have a wiring issue.


I've been told the same thing over and over.

My amp is run with 4 gauge, with a 60A fuse, my amp-chassis ground is solid 4 gauge, metal to metal.

Battery ground-chassis 4AWG
Battery ground-block 4AWG
Alt-battery 4AWG


The wiring is solid, I don't know why it would be cutting out.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 7:15 pm 
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Well, if it's not a wiring problem, it's probably not the alternator. Not that it would hurt to upgrade, but it won't keep the amp from cutting out. That sounds like another problem (possibly the amp). You didn't mention if the amp completely cuts off or if it kind of studders with the music. That is an important detail.

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 Post subject: amp
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 9:14 pm 
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wow, thats nice knowing you have 4 awg from the alt to the batt. as far as the sub being wired wrong, unless its one of the new v2, the old 500.1 will do 1.5-4 ohm variable. so unless you got a bad sub ill say it is the wire as well, and correct me if im wrong but most the time keep your ground to 6 inches or less. good luck.

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trying to go turbo but the wife thinks it will cost too much for my 93 metro so now i have to "wheel & deal" my way there, any help would be great.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 9:56 pm 
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Humour me and try the amp in another vehicle...or try a different amp in your car and see if it cuts out.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 10:41 pm 
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Quote:
Humour me and try the amp in another vehicle...or try a different amp in your car and see if it cuts out.

Funny, that was going to be my next suggestion.

Quote:
correct me if im wrong but most the time keep your ground to 6 inches or less.

Actually, it could be 6 feet long if need be, it just increases resistance. I shoot for under 2 feet myself.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:38 pm 
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If you still want a bigger alternator, I found 2 alternators at work today that I think would work with minimal modification.

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP180825/veh ... Detail.htm

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP181741/veh ... Detail.htm

Unfortunately, I couldn't find out what they fit. The first one has a newer style 4 pin GM connector on it and the second is the old 2 pin GM. The only problem with the second one is the fact that it is huge. With a 6 5/8" dia. case, it might be hard to get the top mount to fit right. Both have an almost perfect bottom mount.

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