TeamSwift

Home of the Suzuki mini-compacts ! Your Home for all things Suzuki Swift, Geo Metro, Holden Barina, Chevy Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, and Suzuki Cultus. TeamSwift is a technical performance oriented community!
It is currently Fri Nov 24, 2017 2:27 am

Underbody braces, turbos and more!

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Battery Vs Sub
PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 5:07 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:14 am
Posts: 107
Location: Winnipeg
Well I only have a 12" hooked up in the back of my geo 1.0 with a monoblock amp to my weak 55 amp alternater (if its even that). Now when sitting at lights the bass cuts out unless I bring the rpms up to make up for it. is it the battery or the alternator that this problem applies too. I'd think it was the alternator seeing as how everything runs off that when the car is on. Im thinking the battery is only used to start the car and thats all.

Am I Wrong? Please correct my logic if applicable. I bought a weak battery (new battery consisting of 440cca).

_________________
Image

1994 Geo Metro 5 spd: All stockish. Re-built head, and lots and lots of donar parts :) B to the ER'

1995 Camaro Z28 6 spd: Magnaflow 3" Cat-back, K&N, skip shift elim. and thats it...for now.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 5:32 pm 
Offline
King of Pompous
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2001 4:22 pm
Posts: 5596
Location: Ottawa ONT.
Generaly it would be an alternator issue more than a battery but you didn't state the size of your amp so its hard to say :).

_________________
LNLC Founding Member

FAKE FRIENDS: Never ask for food.
REAL FRIENDS: Is the reason you have no food.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:32 pm 
Offline
Moderator
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:16 am
Posts: 8044
Location: Ontario, Canada
Is your cable big enough for the length?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 7:24 pm 
Offline
Sad but True...

Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:20 pm
Posts: 2973
Location: Saskatchewan
and is it properly grounded? ie, sandpapered the paint to wherever you mounted it too? alotta people dont sandpaper it... bothers me lol

_________________
1991 Swift GT Build G10 +25 psi + other goodies
1996 Metro Build QR25de swap, still undecided where to take it
the lolcar family


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 12:57 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:14 am
Posts: 107
Location: Winnipeg
The amp is an 800 watt (slated to be that is..) kenwood. the quage of the wire is fairly thick so that should be fine. where its grounded is sanded too. however it may be a bad spot (its grounded right behind the rear seats in the corner on the drivers side). however if the grounding was in error then my problem would be prevalent all the time i'm imagining (not only at idle).

In theory im thinking that the motor only being 1 liter isn't, at idle, letting off enough drive to the alternator to be sufficient for hard bass. And thus that even if i got another alternator (say a 105amp out of a 83 camaro) it would pose the same problem (small engine, at idle, not driving the alternator enough).

Does this sound right to you guys..because my theory is based on very little actual knowledge.

Another thing i noticed is that when all is very cold (-30 degrees celcius) the problem SEEMS to be more prevalent. However this could just be because the car hasn't be working for as long meaning less stored power..(where ever its stored that is).

Sorry for the long post, just trying to get the most out of my potential feed back. Thanks!!

_________________
Image

1994 Geo Metro 5 spd: All stockish. Re-built head, and lots and lots of donar parts :) B to the ER'

1995 Camaro Z28 6 spd: Magnaflow 3" Cat-back, K&N, skip shift elim. and thats it...for now.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 10:18 pm 
Offline
King of Pompous
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2001 4:22 pm
Posts: 5596
Location: Ottawa ONT.
Easy test to do is put a volt meter across the battery terminals when the car is idling and see what the voltage is. If its very low then you know you have an alt problem. The engine size won't matter as its RPM's that will determine what the alternater is putting out voltage wise.

_________________
LNLC Founding Member

FAKE FRIENDS: Never ask for food.
REAL FRIENDS: Is the reason you have no food.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Battery Vs Sub
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 4:14 am 
Offline

Joined: Wed May 28, 2008 6:24 pm
Posts: 209
Location: Escondido / San Deigo, CA
alts power output varies with RPM, your battery is probably slowly being killed, unless the wire connecting the alt to batter, or headlights to batter are too small. Electrical current flows to the path of least resistance, so if your using 4ga for the amp and 10ga for the lights (for example) the amp can pull power away from the lights when the bass hits if there is not enough to go around. Im not really sure it is important to sandpaper the gound bolt as it should be threaded into metal itself and grounded through the bolt if using proper hardware, I don't think this is your problem.

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Battery Vs Sub
PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:40 am 
Offline
Sad but True...

Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:20 pm
Posts: 2973
Location: Saskatchewan
I recently put 1200 REAL rms wattage (not some shitty sony advertised number or anything) to an alpine type R, and I swear when im driving and it hits real hard, I feel the car slow down

_________________
1991 Swift GT Build G10 +25 psi + other goodies
1996 Metro Build QR25de swap, still undecided where to take it
the lolcar family


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Battery Vs Sub
PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 10:35 am 
Offline
King of Pompous
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2001 4:22 pm
Posts: 5596
Location: Ottawa ONT.
Justintoxicated wrote:
Im not really sure it is important to sandpaper the gound bolt as it should be threaded into metal itself and grounded through the bolt if using proper hardware, I don't think this is your problem.



It may not be his problem but you want as much clean surface area as possible for the contact points which is why they get sanded to bare metal. Put a dab of dielectric grease on the bare metal to keep it from corroding.

_________________
LNLC Founding Member

FAKE FRIENDS: Never ask for food.
REAL FRIENDS: Is the reason you have no food.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Battery Vs Sub
PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 11:29 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:11 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Vidor, TX
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think a capacitor may solve your problem. I've never done it myself but I've seen it done. From what I gather your amp is drawing current faster than your electrical system can supply it so what I think you can do is put a large capacitor inline for the power feeding your amp. A capacitor is essentialy a battery that can charge and discharge very quickly. It saves power when your sub isn't drawing a lot between beats and discharges it when it does. Works kind of like a shock absorber between your amp and your electrical system. Should sound a lot better and be less shock to your battery and altenator. You might want to think about beefing up your altenator and/or battery too, but either way a nice smooth power input to your amp is gonna make it work better and last longer along with everything else electrical. Also, if your amp gets to hot it will effect it's performance too so you might want to bear that in mind and think about relocating it if it's somewhere it can't get good air flow and out of the sun. I'm not 100% sure about where to install the capacitor but I think most people in the know about big systems use one for that reason. Hope this helps.

_________________
94 Geo Metro 1.0L 5 speed Green "Baby Girl"
94 Geo Metro 1.0L 5 speed Red "lil' Red"


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Battery Vs Sub
PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 11:32 am 
Offline
Sad but True...

Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:20 pm
Posts: 2973
Location: Saskatchewan
airguard1318 wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think a capacitor may solve your problem. I've never done it myself but I've seen it done. From what I gather your amp is drawing current faster than your electrical system can supply it so what I think you can do is put a large capacitor inline for the power feeding your amp. A capacitor is essentialy a battery that can charge and discharge very quickly. It saves power when your sub isn't drawing a lot between beats and discharges it when it does. Works kind of like a shock absorber between your amp and your electrical system. Should sound a lot better and be less shock to your battery and altenator. You might want to think about beefing up your altenator and/or battery too, but either way a nice smooth power input to your amp is gonna make it work better and last longer along with everything else electrical. Also, if your amp gets to hot it will effect it's performance too so you might want to bear that in mind and think about relocating it if it's somewhere it can't get good air flow and out of the sun. I'm not 100% sure about where to install the capacitor but I think most people in the know about big systems use one for that reason. Hope this helps.

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=35437

_________________
1991 Swift GT Build G10 +25 psi + other goodies
1996 Metro Build QR25de swap, still undecided where to take it
the lolcar family


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group