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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 7:30 pm 
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Location: Abbotsford, BC
Well, I ask this in hopes of getting brief reply. well the ones I removed have some dirtied areas and the glue is not so great anymore. So as I'm trying to remove the old glue with isopropyl it's really slow. I bought some glue that said worked with clear vapor bariers. I plan to put Dynamat on my doors, but I need to put them on after the barier is on ? I need to know if these are really neccesary because it would save me time and effort putting these back in.

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1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 7:56 pm 
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I put the sound deadening inside the doors my doors on my Chevy Sprint, covered in alum foil. I did not put back the vapor barriers, however, I made sure that the water drain holes in the bottom of the door were clean and will not trap water inside the doors..... Since my Speakers are inside the door, moister can affect them, but they are not that expensive to replace ................................

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1985 Chevy Sprint Mk1 G10 5 Speed Sky Blue


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:13 pm 
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I see. I assume the vapor barrier is supposed to act as an agent against moisture and condensation. Say, that when it is very cold outside and warm inside, the doors could condense in the inside and the plastic barrier protects somewhat against this ? Furthermore when I thought closely there is no way my vapor barriers comprised with the heavy-ness of the dynamat against the plastic it would be a mess to try and install and the dynamat can only work if there is a tight seal between the backing and the steel door. Now that I think of it Ill forgo the reinstallation of the barriers. Plus, this will take some stress off installation as they didnt re-fit that great anyways (at least the one I re-glued)

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1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:28 pm 
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It's not a vapour barrier, and I suggest you put it back.

What it actually does is keep the water that runs down past the window seals into the door from destroying the inner door panel, and also getting into the car and soaking the capet etc., etc..

How much of a problem you'll create by leaving it out depends on the condition of your window seals, (BTW it's not IF they leak, they all leak, that's why there are drain holes) and how much rain you get.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:46 pm 
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Location: Everett Wa
You are right fordem, about the rail and the seals, my seals are right up next to both windows

I do think they still help with the condensation problem .......


Here in the Seattle, WA area, due to Global Warming, we probably will not get as much rain as we have in the past ....... :roll: :roll: :roll:

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1985 Chevy Sprint Mk1 G10 5 Speed Sky Blue


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:57 pm 
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I'll move this to the stereo section as it seems a little more apropriate there. You don't have to put the barrier back in if you've completely covered the door in deadener as it will act as the new barrier. If you've let openings and not sealed it right up though your going to have some issues.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:50 pm 
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m wrote:
I'll move this to the stereo section as it seems a little more apropriate there. You don't have to put the barrier back in if you've completely covered the door in deadener as it will act as the new barrier. If you've let openings and not sealed it right up though your going to have some issues.


Dang, issues ? Well I hope I don't get any issues because putting back the old barrier is too much work. Maybe after I cover the door panel in dynamat I can use tuck tape to cover the holes ?

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1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 11:37 pm 
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http://www.dynamat.com/technical_instal ... _menu.html


Look at the competition door install. Thats how to properly deaden a door...with a couple of exceptions. Myself I don't use the Dynaplate to cover the small holes. It looks like it would do the job well enough but (and I may be wrong here as I haven't used it) it doesn't seem like it would be stiff enough to do a perfect job. I use thin aluminum sheet (1/16-1/8" cut with a saw) or if the application allows I'll use 1/4" MDF. You can use anything structural really. Even tin plate. Just make sure that you put the sound deadener on it as well and that it doesn't rattle. I also haven't used the Tacmat either. Do it this way and your door will be way quiter and sealed off much better than from the factory.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 12:41 pm 
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Seems like after reading those guides Ill be doing the backdoors by just covering the metal panel with custom fitting pieces (I did not start by laying the whole mat over the panel and then cutting out holes) . The competetion door install seems to be really expensive since one would need to buy all those different mat types. For the front doors I will do outer door skin as well as the 'proper' way for the inner door skin. Pics should arrive soon.

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1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 1:32 pm 
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As I said. I only use one type of mat for the whole thing. I use Al sheet cutout to fit over the holes in the inner skin. Cost is mat + maybe $10 in aluminum.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 12:13 am 
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Well, I'm finshed with the door installs now. I layerd both the bottom halfs of the inner and outer door skin. Doing the top half seemed to take too much work for the little difference. Well the sound is super-great anyways. My head unit is like 18W RMS (50W mosfet) and my midranges are 100W RMS (polk momo db II ) plus tweeters flush mounted to doors. Will upload finished door later.
Image

Thanks for the advice everyone above, I now have the vapes removed and Im not going to worry about them anymore.

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1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 3:35 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
We can't buy rain here.
The MK1 looked like this before I put that little piece of plastic back on:

Image

A little bit of the underside of the hood shows the sound deadener similar to yours, but without the 'Dynamat' logo. Again, check the price of the fellows in Arizona. Their 'SecondSkin Audio' is the same thing for about half the price.
Image
We were worried about how it would hold up in the hot summers here.
Fortunately, it passes with flying colors.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 8:28 pm 
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finished door:

Image

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1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2008 9:47 pm 
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Looks Good ....................... :D :D :D :D

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1985 Chevy Sprint Mk1 G10 5 Speed Sky Blue


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:44 am 
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Sad but True...

Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:20 pm
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Location: Saskatchewan
looks clean good work

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1996 Metro Build QR25de swap, still undecided where to take it
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