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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:44 am 
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Is this a good idea to use as a sound deadner?? I want to spray the entire inside floor with this. If this works well on th floors I will spray the doors and side rear panels.

Any input is appreciated..

Ray G

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:51 am 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
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You can see the bedliner on the left, and the Second Skin Audio "Damplifier" on the right.
We used both, and it's like a Lexus inside. Very quiet. Almost too quiet. Might have to put a tachometer in it to make sure the engine is running. Oh wait. It's an automatic.
Yep. And cheaper than bread board stuff...or dynamat for that matter.
Call those boys in Phoenix and ask em for a free sample. Cheap is good. Free is better.

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Last edited by Phil N Ed on Fri Mar 13, 2009 7:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 12:54 pm 
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Some can work decently but not as well as a dedicated sound deadener. You may need to put a thicker coat of bedliner on to get a good result. Its been years since I've played with them though so I imagine things could have changed since then.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:17 pm 
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m wrote:
Some can work decently but not as well as a dedicated sound deadener. You may need to put a thicker coat of bedliner on to get a good result. Its been years since I've played with them though so I imagine things could have changed since then.


There is one put out by Dominion Sure Seal, it's a Butyl Rubber spray on. Stuff is just like spraying on good sound deadener. The problem with bedliner is that it is a hard vinyl, so it's not the best at absorbing vibration.

I spray the rubber rocker panel protectant and then I spray a layer of the bedliner. Sort of to give it a hard crust that protects the rubber.

Also make damn sure you rough up the paint with some 120-240 grit sandpaper, and then clean it out, you need good adhesion or you'll end up with a layer that floats on top of the paint and does nothing.

8)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:00 pm 
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just buy some b-quiet its cheap, very similar to dynamat and easy to use. this is already the "cheap" alternative, how far must you go?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:02 pm 
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gamefoo21 wrote:
The problem with bedliner is that it is a hard vinyl, so it's not the best at absorbing vibration.



Well most of the sprasy deadeners harden up pretty good too. The important thing is the weight of the product as that is what really dampenes them. I've used spray on rocker guard inside enclosures to deaden them up a bit but it takes a lot (I've used 4-5 cans inside a 1.5 cube enclosure) to make it worth the while and spraying a car with it would be too much money. Admittedly I use it more to make the inside of the enclosures look more "finished" (I find it looks better than when I coat the insides with fiberglass resin) but the added weight of it could help with the accoustics...though I doubt enough to tell the difference.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:53 pm 
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m wrote:
gamefoo21 wrote:
The problem with bedliner is that it is a hard vinyl, so it's not the best at absorbing vibration.



Well most of the sprasy deadeners harden up pretty good too. The important thing is the weight of the product as that is what really dampenes them. I've used spray on rocker guard inside enclosures to deaden them up a bit but it takes a lot (I've used 4-5 cans inside a 1.5 cube enclosure) to make it worth the while and spraying a car with it would be too much money. Admittedly I use it more to make the inside of the enclosures look more "finished" (I find it looks better than when I coat the insides with fiberglass resin) but the added weight of it could help with the accoustics...though I doubt enough to tell the difference.


I guess that's true, but I don't think they harden to point of bedliner where it is a hard sheet of plastic afterwards. :lol:

That's true, the cans are pricey since there has to be so much, accelerant inside for a small amount of product. It helps though when it's on sale, and it's like 399 for 750grams. The trick is though, only the kind of rocker panel protectant I listed is free from asphalt and is a butyl rubber that stays behind. As a result it's regular price is around $8 a can vs. the $5 bucks for the "asphalted paintable" stuff. Lack of smell ftw!

I heard B-Quiet, is asphalt/butyl hybrid and only their expensive stuff is full blown butyl rubber?

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B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:30 pm 
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gamefoo21 wrote:
m wrote:
gamefoo21 wrote:
The problem with bedliner is that it is a hard vinyl, so it's not the best at absorbing vibration.



Well most of the sprasy deadeners harden up pretty good too. The important thing is the weight of the product as that is what really dampenes them. I've used spray on rocker guard inside enclosures to deaden them up a bit but it takes a lot (I've used 4-5 cans inside a 1.5 cube enclosure) to make it worth the while and spraying a car with it would be too much money. Admittedly I use it more to make the inside of the enclosures look more "finished" (I find it looks better than when I coat the insides with fiberglass resin) but the added weight of it could help with the accoustics...though I doubt enough to tell the difference.


I guess that's true, but I don't think they harden to point of bedliner where it is a hard sheet of plastic afterwards. :lol:

That's true, the cans are pricey since there has to be so much, accelerant inside for a small amount of product. It helps though when it's on sale, and it's like 399 for 750grams. The trick is though, only the kind of rocker panel protectant I listed is free from asphalt and is a butyl rubber that stays behind. As a result it's regular price is around $8 a can vs. the $5 bucks for the "asphalted paintable" stuff. Lack of smell ftw!

I heard B-Quiet, is asphalt/butyl hybrid and only their expensive stuff is full blown butyl rubber?

by expensive you mean 1/3rd the cost of dynamat? screw just doing your doors/trunk with dyna, with that cost I did the whooole car, roof, ground, doors, places you cant see. did it for like 150 bucks

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:44 pm 
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So something like Rhino Lining or Line-X I should not go with??

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:19 pm 
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swift13b wrote:
by expensive you mean 1/3rd the cost of dynamat?



Using a rocker guard cost considerably more than Dynamat for the same results.


Raygo: I think the best thing for you to do is ask the guy who sells the Rhino for a living. They have a few different applications and can surely answer your questions better than we may be able to.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 9:34 am 
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m wrote:
swift13b wrote:
by expensive you mean 1/3rd the cost of dynamat?



Using a rocker guard cost considerably more than Dynamat for the same results.

then this should be a no brainer. my gt build has pics

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 12:12 am 
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I have used latex roofing patch with sand mixed in. It's cheap and easy to use.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 2:02 am 
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Metropwr wrote:
I have used latex roofing patch with sand mixed in. It's cheap and easy to use.

why add sand?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 2:28 am 
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density I would imagine.but why spend all this time and effort into mixing up your own contraption when you could buy the cheap map andjust lay it down? its bad enough you have to clean the area well before you do anything..

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:10 am 
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It adds a whole bunch of mass for really cheap. Latex roofing compound will stick like hell to most surfaces. The mat I have used never really stuck all that great.
I just like that you can paint it on wherever you need it with ease. You don't need to add sand, it works great as is.

When I get a chance I will take a picture of it.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 3:23 pm 
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Metropwr wrote:
It adds a whole bunch of mass for really cheap. Latex roofing compound will stick like hell to most surfaces. The mat I have used never really stuck all that great.
I just like that you can paint it on wherever you need it with ease. You don't need to add sand, it works great as is.

When I get a chance I will take a picture of it.

it was hard to slide under the door reinforcement. in fact it is bonded to the door in the center. painting would be easier and faster.
i painted the bottom seam anyway. Metropwr kills 2 birds with 1 stone. :D

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 5:17 pm 
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If you want to mass-load do not use normal silica sand, pick up some metallic media-blasting media like Aluminum Oxide or Iron Slag which are probably about 2-3x denser and you can also choose what grit size you want.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 4:28 pm 
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I bought a $40 roll on bedliner from walmart, and I am going to try that...I will let you know what it is like...if the damn car ever gets done!

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:49 am 
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ajh wrote:
If you want to mass-load do not use normal silica sand, pick up some metallic media-blasting media like Aluminum Oxide or Iron Slag which are probably about 2-3x denser and you can also choose what grit size you want.


You could also use small lead shot used for shot shell reloading to get maximum density.

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