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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 4:04 am 
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Have you got a sway bar in the back of that thing?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 9:15 am 
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ROV wrote:
What kinda rear springs should i use in a mk1 ....because i still get some body roll.


A tiny bit of body roll is not always a bad thing with cars that are as light as ours. I'm surprised you say this though, as from your pictures the car looks pretty darn flat around the corners!

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 3:27 pm 
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Location: Roumania
It's a pretty fast car around the corners, the thing is that my rear is a bit off ...the bushings are worn.
@dattman i haven't yet , i have a slight problem with the anchor points on the car and on the axel. Your pics would be usefull :).
The problem is that if i try to place it facing the rear tire well there is the anchor point in the middle of the car that i will have to cut out.
When i try to place it facing the fuel tank ...the mounting point are way up, about 10cm so i would have to mount it in a an angle position .
Your suggestions are welcome.

P.S: thinkin of p29 pistons for next season.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:48 am 
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Location: Roumania
Hello people,
My cams arrived from Mike along with a set of YCP p29 pistons that i ordered.
I will be using the 222/9.27 lift cams and other mods in this season.
This post will describe the difference between the ycp piston vs stock gti piston,since every related thread had no real data in it.
First impression on the p29 ycp piston is that it's lighter than the oem swift gti one, also it seems that it's weaker in terms of design but i guess that will have to be discussed in case o failure after fitting them.

The dome on the p29 is 5.8mm thick vs 5mm on the swift gti one.
Taking into consideration the fact that i skimmed the head 0.75mm i will have to skimm the dome of the pistons 0.8 in order to lower the cr to almost 12.5 -13 ,figure considered acceptable using 98 octane plus toluene or xilene.
The cr is approx because i'm using a calculator found online so i guess there is room for error.
The 5mm dome should be enough for a max of 50bar pressure , pressure that couldn't build up even in the extreme cases.
Don't ask me about the pressure calculation because my metal processing engineer is the one with math skill .
After skimming the piston dome 0.8 , i will cut the valve pockets in order to accomodate the gti valve angle, that is a little wider than the d16, plus to make room for the 9.27 lift cams.
It will take aprox 1.5mm to 2 mm in order to get the clearance right.I don't want to machine the quench area because it is the same as the gti one .

Here are some data regarding the pistons :

mm----------------- p29 D16a1 ycp--------------- vs ------------------swift gti
pin lenght ----------------56 -----------------------------------------------63
pin diam -----------------19.21 --------------------------------------------19.21
pin thickness--------------3.5 ----------------------------------------------3.1
pin to piston top----------19.3 ---------------------------------------------19.5
piston to rod space-------21.5----------------------------------------------25.6
rod small end lenght---------------------------------------------------------22.1
piston skirt-top-----------59------------------------------------------------56


With those figures in mind let's start thinking:
-there is a difference in the clearance in terms of rod small end to piston (horizontal clearance)
that is measured at 4 mm and because the pistons look like they are allready as light as they can be I will have to machine 1mm on each side of the inner piston pin hole plus 1 mm on eache side of the rod's small end. The rod can take it with problems because even the bronze bush sits a little inward , about 0.5.

Other small things are that i drillled another 4 oil holes in the pistons, because the ycp ones had only 3 and on high rev the oild wouldn't have had enough time to drain .
The hole were drilled the identical to the gti piston using a dremmel tool and matching drill bit.
Here are some photos .

Does anyone know the gti piston to deck clearance?measured by him or from a specs manual?


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d16pin vs gti.JPG
d16pin vs gti.JPG [ 243.99 KIB | Viewed 1922 times ]
bonus.JPG
bonus.JPG [ 316 KIB | Viewed 1929 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 11:05 am 
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Will the GTi rod small ends still fit into the piston? If not are you having the rod machined to fit or the piston?

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B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 11:13 am 
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The piston will need to be machined 1 mm on each side and the small end of the rod 1 mm on each side in order to fit correctly.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 11:26 am 
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Ahh, that's an interesting way to handle that problem.

Are you upgrading the big end con-rod bolts? I've only ever seen them fail from getting spun up to high and they started to stretch because the loads were getting to be too much. Either way stock rods should hold up quite well, I pushed 280/290psi compression on the pressed pin G10 rods and they didn't bend. Timing and knock control is everything though.

http://www.viatrack.ca/ has a really good stand alone 'knock' detection system, but it does rely on the user to adjust things.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 2:16 pm 
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Location: Roumania
very interesting :) i like the way i think.
Yes, it a great concern of mine since i spun a bearing but i have yet to find arp bolts or equivalent thatare a tight fit on the gti rods.
While doing some research on suzuki forums, i found out that d15 or d16 arp bolt work but they arent a tight fit so i have my doubts regarding that.
If someone who is using them and making 8500 rpm would shar his point of view it would be a great help.
I'll try to compensate my fear of bearing damage with low viscosity oil such as 5w30 full synth with zddp and mos2 in it and hope to modd the oil system to run at 7bar at high rpm.
I haven't tested the presure drop from the oil pump to the head but i guess it's a pretty huge drop. I'll try to buy a oil filter relocation kit and use the biggest filter i can find in order to keep the bearing cool , lubricated and with good supply of high pressure oil.
My aim for this year is to complete the engine and part of the suspension, over here i have 2 local hillclimbs, one is a high speed with medium corners and the other one is only 90 degree corners. The one with 90 degree corners is the one that i-m afraid of int terms of engine damage because it goes something like 1 8000rpm 2 8000rpm brake 2 4500-8500 3 7000 brake .....and that goes on for about 5 times until the end of the track . It's a real hillclimb because you start off at 0 m and in 2 km you get 6% climb angle with little time for the engine to breath and cool down at high speed.

Anyway ...i hope to get all this stuff sorted out by the end of feb and probably aim at a sticky with the d16 pistons in swift gti.
I will post all the detail here at each step of the build so that it's easier for other member to do the same if they want to without going all the trouble regarding measurements and stuff.

P.S: Thanks alot for the link! i was looking for a knock sensor standalone warning system.


Attachments:
harta_bucovat_portofoliu.jpg
harta_bucovat_portofoliu.jpg [ 437 KIB | Viewed 1925 times ]
bucovat2.jpeg
bucovat2.jpeg [ 108.09 KIB | Viewed 1925 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 12:17 pm 
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Location: Roumania
First race of the season was this Sunday.
@superfly Thanks for the cams. The are excellent .Huge power gain and very good rpm range BTW, you owe me a new clutch :D

First place in my class and 5th overall.

1 666 DAIANU ALEXANDRU VI 1:06.963 1:06.963 AUDI A4 2.0TFSI modified
2 415 DUTESCU MIHNEA DANIEL IV 1:07.385 1:14.124 1:07.385 0.422 Megane kit car
3 555 PIRVULESCU GHEORGHE VI 1:11.840 1:10.316 1:08.752 1:08.752 1.789 Impreza wrx sti
4 5 RADOVICI DANUT CONSTANTIN III 1:12.837 1:11.683 1:16.175 1:11.683 4.720 vw golf2
5 25 VOLINTIRU RADU I 1:13.993 1:13.136 1:12.950 1:12.950 5.987 Swift gti

Here are some pics


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 12:52 pm 
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Location: Roumania
I want to buy a new clutch kit since the one on the car is roast.
I've found Techniclutch that sells a "fas road" clutch kit for a good price.
Any opinions?
I wouldn't mind installing a used one as long as it works and is better than the stock one.
Also looking to buy an aluminium flywheel .
Anyone got these parts?
Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:13 pm 
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6PFKsxm9wI

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:19 pm 
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Location: Trinidad, W.I.
Spare aluminum flywhweels are a hard item to come by. Your best bet would be new from ebay or such place. I would recommend the Exedy clutch...its the only one from the OEM that I would swear by.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 5:24 am 
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I would agree on the exidy clutch, I have the Daiken Exidy heavy duty clutch, same organic clutch plate but the pressure plate has a bit more clamping pressure than standard, excellent value and it hasn't slipped and I haven't broken any driveshafts yet. :D


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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2011 12:24 pm 
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exedy clutch kit bought .

Looking to resurface the flywheel and the 1 mm out of the outer edge so that the pressure plate has a little bit more byte :)

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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2011 3:02 pm 
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If it's the pink pressure plate then you don't want/need any more bite...unless you are planning on boosting your engine.


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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 12:15 am 
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It's the standard daikin clutch kit for the mk1 gti.
I didn't have the money for a stage1 clutch kit, but i'm guessing it won't be any problem with it as long as i am careful with the gear changes.
I hope my mechanic is working tomorrow so that i can get the clutch kit in and maybe do a little tuning on the carbs and stuff.
I'll take photos of the burned clutch :)

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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 1:40 pm 
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Here's the little clutch that could.


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20052011104.jpg
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PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2011 2:07 pm 
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Dayum....that's what you call a toasted pressure plate!

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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 12:18 am 
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Another win this weekend. The exedy clutch is doing it's job.
Brakes on the other hand are cooked :(


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me.jpg [ 417.7 KIB | Viewed 1931 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 8:26 pm 
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great stuff. keep at it. i grew up with and around these guys most of my life, friends who started with a used up old class 8 and are now factory ford guinie pigs, bitd class 8s champs and regular race winners.. pays to be persistant..may lead to faster cars for you in the future....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJ028xdfmCU


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 5:32 pm 
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Thanks.I'll keep it up as log as i can afford it :)
What do you guys think of the videos?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjuoAfca8cg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uekVxUAjlsA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0lrjsmM-uY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQPVroymKEA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbt-bYuQBws

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdO2TEt0ZFA

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 9:45 pm 
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ROV wrote:
Thanks.I'll keep it up as log as i can afford it :)
What do you guys think of the videos?
...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbt-bYuQBws

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdO2TEt0ZFA


I love the vidoes. They are way too short :D In the last two vidoes, on exiting the tire chicane, 2nd gear low rpms seems like it is flat spotting until your reach around 4,500 rpm then it clears up.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 10:56 pm 
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Agreed. The exit from the chicane does seem to show as if you’re not building power quickly enough, until you get to mid-band rpm’s.

Excellent stuff though....nice lines in the first couple vids. Torque steer much? :)

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 2:39 am 
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MF89 wrote:
In the last two vidoes, on exiting the tire chicane, 2nd gear low rpms seems like it is flat spotting until your reach around 4,500 rpm then it clears up.


Yep sounds like it has come off cam, gears are too wide for your power band, what size exhaust? and what sort of exhaust manifold are you running ROV?

I just looked back through the photo's and noticed the twin carbs, thats the problem, until there is enough airspeed carbs won't make much power down low, had the same problem in my Datsun when I was running twin dellorto's, car sounds great at full power though 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:06 am 
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thats what the accellerator pumps are for...just more tuning required....as a carb guy, i know carbs loose very little in naturally aspirated race motors if any..i have seen countless efi vs carb dyno testing-- and carbs, when tuned, are always on efi's ass. get yourself a wideband.....or more gear ratio...or both =)


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