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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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 Post subject: Tip for fighting rust
PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 10:09 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 5:32 pm
Posts: 166
Location: Norway
Tip for fighting rust

I have a tip for you all to keep your Suzuki up and running for a long long time.

In order to fight rust, I recommend that the undercarriage, brake drum house, wheel suspension etc. is smeared in with the product “Owatrol Oil” every second year or so.

http://www.upkeepers.co.uk/Product/00059

It’s like clear oil that hardens, sealing the surface. You may apply it directly on rust if you like. I apply it using a long radiator brush. Note: Cover the floor with old newspapers etc. as it leaves permanent stains just like paint. You can also use linseed oil, but I find this product to a take a very long time to harden.

I find other products like Tectyl a bit messy to work with, it does not harden completely nor is it transparent.
The only place I have used it is in the wheel well.

If you are serious keeping your swift on the road for a long time, I recommend treating the undercarriage every second year with this stuff.

Here in Scandinavia they use brine on the roads in the winter, so Tectyl coating is standard when the car is sold.
But even this protection will wear down as time goes by. But I believe when a car is sold in a warm county, Tectyl coating is not present. This may explain these extreme rust pictures I have seen here on this site… :shock:

Apply this stuff every year or so, and I will promise the rust will never be present!

And no, I do not work for this company. I have tested it myself! :mrgreen:


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Last edited by marsbar on Wed May 13, 2009 3:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 10:33 am 
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Location: Oss, the Netherlands
My rustbucket got me thinking about prevention too. Tectyl is messy stuff, but I used it on some parts of the new car already. I've been thinking about welding a zinc-anode somewhere to the bottom, like they do on cranes and ships.

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'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 10:41 am 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Using this product correctly, how long would you expect a car to last?
Many cars on this forum have rusted through in only a couple of years without doing as you suggest.
It would appear that the most serious rust damage is where the front hub mounts to the body and where you place your feet while driving or riding.

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DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
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DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 11:27 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:57 am
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Location: Edmonton
Is there something similar available in Canada?


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 1:28 pm 
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if you wanted to weld to a spot where you smeared this stuff on, how easy is it to remove it?


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PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 3:25 pm 
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Location: Norway
if you apply this product correctly, and maintain it, the car simply won't rust.

My car is now 24 years old and has been kept outdoor in winters with brine. I also live by the coast and park the car near salt water every day!

If there are rust, remove the rust as much as possible. Then apply this oil. Let it dry for a few days. Overpaint if you like.

If you need to weld you have to scrape it off using sand-paper or a rotating steel brush.

This product is not intended to use on top of paint as it will destoy the finish.
On top of final paint you have to use proper polishing wax in order to seal the paint.

You should also treat hollow spaces, but this is work for a professional company since I have no idea where these spaces are not where to drill holes in order to apply it.

This will help the car from rusting inside-out.

Good luck :wink:



Phil N Ed wrote:
Using this product correctly, how long would you expect a car to last?
Many cars on this forum have rusted through in only a couple of years without doing as you suggest.
It would appear that the most serious rust damage is where the front hub mounts to the body and where you place your feet while driving or riding.


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PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2009 9:39 pm 
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Posts: 540
Location: Kent
Thats some good advice marsbar.

I also intend to seal the underside of my car but im planning to use POR-15. Anyone tried it before?

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 2:19 am 
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Peenutzz wrote:
...I've been thinking about welding a zinc-anode somewhere to the bottom, like they do on cranes and ships.


That'll only work if the zinc portion is well grounded (as in buried in the ground or submerged in salt water). There's a reason why cathodic protection hasn't been featured in production automobiles.

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...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 6:28 am 
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Lihtan wrote:
Peenutzz wrote:
...I've been thinking about welding a zinc-anode somewhere to the bottom, like they do on cranes and ships.


That'll only work if the zinc portion is well grounded (as in buried in the ground or submerged in salt water). There's a reason why cathodic protection hasn't been featured in production automobiles.


You got me doing some research :P Turns out parts don't need to be totally submerged, they just need an ion pathway between the zinc and the metal to be protected, like water or dirt. That means that if I had anodes properly welded to my wheelwells, they would only work during rain and as soon as they are dry, the rest of the car would still be rotting away :P

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 2:43 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, BC
If you trail a grounding strap from the zinc block that may work as well too.

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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 7:26 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 5:32 pm
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Location: Norway
You are on the wrong track here! A zinc block would be a good idea on your steel or aluminium boat and not your car.

The reason? :huh: The zinc block would only be in contact with the air which is a very poor conductor as we all know...

Salt water on the other hand is a VERY good conductor.

So it's definitely a dead end :drunk:

Try the following:

1) Use Owatrol oil directly on any rust you see

2) Or use a paint primer like Arcanol on bare clean metal

3) Use Tectyl inside wheel well

So, let's smear all those cars in before it's too late!


Lihtan wrote:
If you trail a grounding strap from the zinc block that may work as well too.


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 9:24 am 
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ehos wrote:
Is there something similar available in Canada?

Or the USA?
I want some.
john :D :D

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 4:17 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
swedish fish oil, used it on the saabs for 20 years.

similar products are available in north america under the name, waxoyl. ziebart is similar, too.

nothing beats not driving in salt and keeping the bottom of the car bone dry. :-P

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 5:30 pm 
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Lihtan wrote:
If you trail a grounding strap from the zinc block that may work as well too.


That would only be an 'electron pathway' instead of ions, I guess. That's where the water comes in. Could make a grounding strap with a piece of hose filled with water of course =) No, I think I'll just go for the oil treatment too. Much easier.

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2009 3:39 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 5:32 pm
Posts: 166
Location: Norway
Fish oil?! Just the name of it smells here on the screen...Yuk!
:shock: I think we Norwegians need to send you Swede some oil, and we can get some booze in return! :drunk:


t3 ragtop wrote:
swedish fish oil, used it on the saabs for 20 years.

similar products are available in north america under the name, waxoyl. ziebart is similar, too.

nothing beats not driving in salt and keeping the bottom of the car bone dry. :-P


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:59 pm 
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Location: CAMI Automotive / ONTARIO / CANADA
ehos wrote:
Is there something similar available in Canada?


KROWN spray .

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See The MR. SUZUKI Convertible here >>>> viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24728
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 2:05 pm 
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Location: Kent
Has anyone here used Por-15?

Thats what i intend to seal the underside of my car with when i've finnished welding.

Any opinions?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 2:33 am 
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Posts: 14
Location: Montréa;, Québec, Canada.
In Canada there is "Tremclad" antirust paint all purpose, no need primer, s basically its good for cars, I know some peple who used it on their beater, the results are good, gloss finish or flat, some colors, 40$ a gallon. I gave 2 layers on my 1987 Honda Civic wagon RT4WD hood and it looks good, I'll paint the whole car soon. and my civic lived in Canada its 23 years, for a civic it is enough clean, the wheel wells are still in one part without holes, the guy put some oil before but had it just 3 years, don't know how the first guy treated it.
My firefly was rust proofed underneath, so the frame is still good, but the rest is scrap.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 10:30 pm 
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I'm using a CounterAct electrostatic rust protection system on my Cultus. it is supposed to charge the entire surface and prevent oxidation.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 1:32 am 
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Hello,
I red your comment.Well nice information sharing,i must say.I am really pleased to see such article sharing at the community.Many people are just start the activity as craze,but the information that you have shared is must known to them.Please try to share more articles like this one,that is really superb.Thank you for sharing such nice post..

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 8:46 am 
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Location: Niagara Region, Ontario
Some input to your question about POR-15.

I have used it on my 50's car. Painted the entire frame, and whole underbody of the car. Although it does not see crappy weather, other than a rain storms. I am very happy with it. It is super hard when it is dry, it won't chip off. it's easy to put on, you can use a brush. You want to make sure you use the metal clean and metal prep products first. It's pricey, but it goes a long way. You can paint it too if you want.

Going to do my vert this winter, and will use it again.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 7:37 pm 
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I use Castrol chain lube. It comes in a spray can.

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