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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 9:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:25 pm
Posts: 4
Location: canada
The gas mileage on my '87 Sprint has gone down significantly and would like to do some emission trouble shooting but my car does not match my '87 Service manual - I don't have a 'Check Engine Light' on my display, there is no diagnosis switch under the dash and can't even find the ECM...

Any thoughts on this?

Regards,
S P


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:56 pm
Posts: 5627
Location: Emerald city Washington
spendril wrote:
The gas mileage on my '87 Sprint has gone down significantly and would like to do some emission trouble shooting but my car does not match my '87 Service manual - I don't have a 'Check Engine Light' on my display, there is no diagnosis switch under the dash and can't even find the ECM...

Any thoughts on this?

Regards,
S P

.
If you look real close i bet you will find a little two wire harness just below the cig lighter next to heater box above the gas pedal were the switch used to plug into
and I'm willing to bet my lunch money that if it is a North American 1987 Chevy Sprint you have a little engine light in your dash cluster
.
.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 1:36 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:25 pm
Posts: 4
Location: canada
Thanks for the great information and photo - I found the 2-wire connector you indicated - after checking with the service manual I shorted the 2 pins out and turned the ignition on but still no CE light.

The diagnostic 'switch' is there but there really is no 'Check Engine' light icon on the cluster - there is battery, seat belt, oil pressure and brake indicators but that is it. I will try turning on the switch at night, in the event the light is there but no cutout on the cluster.

Thanks again.

SP


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:25 pm
Posts: 4
Location: canada
Have made some progress on my 87 Sprint situation - turns out that since my Sprint was released into the Canadian market, it has way less in the way of emission control - simple Aisan carb, no oxygen sensor and no MCS.

Have been playing with the idle mixture screw, as that is about all I have to boost my gas mileage with.

Does anyone have a handle on a carb kit for the Aisan carb?

Thanks
SP


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 11:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
This?
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Quote:
Bought my '87 Sprint (non-turbo) new... best little car I ever owned. She is starting to show her age and given my success with all things Sprint, am thinking about 'moving up' to early 90's Sprint. Thoughts regarding comparison between the 2 model/years?


Your 85-88 Sprint
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will always remind you of your favorite little car. People to the East of you used to mainline on them, but the salt and rust ate them up. If you can protect your body from rust, then your car will last another 20 years.
If you get it to run right, then you can save some money and buy more easily obtainable early 90s models
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which are harder to work on, more complex, and more expensive to maintain...
but you will keep your earlier years in front of them and use them more often
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until they are crashed, broken, or rusted out. The earlier cars are more fun to drive, have better acceleration, and are more economical. Very few people have them anymore because people have forgotten how to fix them...especially the MR 08 Hitachi carburetor...except overseas.

The main problems you will encounter on your older car are ones of head and carburetion. You should make sure the float level is correct on your carburetor
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and maybe run a little (2 oz or so) of gas treatment through the tank every 3 months.
Your air screw initial setting is 1 1/2 turns out. You screw it in until it stops, don't tighten it!
Then, unscrew carefully 360 plus 180 degrees. Leave it set that way.
Recently, another fellow has been asking about his early model Sprint, and didn't even know what his 'second air valve' was. He has a lot to learn, eh?

The head is a simple fix; you buy one at the junkyard and have it professionally rebuilt while you drive the car as it is. Figure $200 for the head rebuild and you may as well pick up some rings and rod bearings while you're driving it, so when the time comes, you can do a complete 'refresh' including oil and water pump. Then you should have essentially a new engine and it should last longer than you would believe.
The cars aren't 'chick magnets', so if you want to snag a hot pair of legs, better just buy a 3, 5, 7, or 9 series BMW.
...but they do save you money.

You should do a compression test
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and hope you do better than the above.
Your compression results will tell you how much life is left in your car engine.
Don't be afraid to post your results.

If you want the best help you can get for free, then simply post pictures of your
engine compartment if you are asking about engine/carb/tranny questions
undercarriage if you are asking about suspension
and
interior if you are asking about things under the dash, etc.

Hope this helps. Until then, the 5 caballeros in the desert shoot you and their little brother a high 5!
Image

With your car, work smarter and not harder. It was cheap to buy, it's cheap to fix, and it's really cheap to operate. Think in terms of vacuum leaks rather than carb problems, and maybe exhaust valves when everything (except compression) checks out.

Fix it, drive it, save your money, and buy that hot car you can impress all your friends with!

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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