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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 9:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 3:52 am
Posts: 1545
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
oh darn... both of things is totally different! Now it made a sense. :lol:


Pacapo, no worry... we, Canadian, probably not bothered about it. Heck SuzukiTom is wayyy nice than I am. =)

Oh yeah you are absolutely right about safety but again... It depends on how people think about minimum safety level is. Just remember maximum safety level is... don't drive the car and take the bus. ;p

Sometime I wish we have auto laws in Japan at here. I mean auto law in Japan is very serious to the extreme so we can live longer as them.

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sorry bout my bad english


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2014 1:12 pm
Posts: 56
Location: St. Louis Mo
pacapo wrote:
suzukitom wrote:
Joeyman,

thanks for clarifying that you meant radiator fan thermo switch, rather than temp sensor wire you originally mentioned.

It makes sense now!

Cheers
Tom


To the OP: you shouldn't drive a 20+ year old car for 2 years and do no work on it. Safety first; maintain the vehicle in a safe manner for the sake of all people on the road - not only yourself...


why would I do work to something that isn't broken? I change the oil every 3K miles and have had to put one new tire on it. I get 40mpg and go anywhere I want with it. I'm about to put new brakes on it here real soon and I also ordered rear control arms and both front control arms from rockauto to be installed soon. other than that I get in and go.


Last edited by Joeyman on Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2014 1:12 pm
Posts: 56
Location: St. Louis Mo
CMA wrote:
oh darn... both of things is totally different! Now it made a sense. :lol:
.



just clarifying the official name of it per the wiring diagram if you seen where I posted a picture of the wiring diagram.


Not real sure why you're being sarcastic.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 4:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:36 am
Posts: 882
Location: Vancouver BC
Quote:
just clarifying the official name of it per the wiring diagram if you seen where I posted a picture of the wiring diagram.

Not real sure why you're being sarcastic.


Joeyman, I don't think there was an ounce of sarcasm in our replies. :thumbsup:

CMA and myself both thanked you for taking the time to clarify what you meant to say. Your original wording meant that we thought you had replaced the temp sensor wire, rather than the radiator fan thermo switch. Both of these wires exist, but if the coolant temperature sensor wire had been grounded, it would not have explained why your fuse blew. Your clarification simply means that other people who read this thread in the future will be able to better able to identify the fault as well as the solution.

I find Teamswift forum members helpful - and we have thick skin!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2014 1:12 pm
Posts: 56
Location: St. Louis Mo
Another issue I have with my car is sometimes more so than often after car has been driven and I park it for lets say a half hour and when I go to fire it back up. Car will start but quickly die. I could do this a few times if I wanted to but what I do to keep it running is baby the gas pedal and it'll stay running. Its becoming very annoying. Cold starts it fire's right up and will stay running. Any idea's on that matter?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 2:51 pm 
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Location: Vancouver BC
Stalling symptoms after the engine is warmed up, or upon a warm restart, is an indication of possible failing injector. If the car always starts reliably when cold, this strengthens the diagnosis of a failing injector. (specifically, an injector coil shorting when hot)

At some point, if the injector is indeed shorting, the frequency of stalling will be such that the car will stall or begin lurching while driving at a steady speed.

A used Metro fuel injector from Pic n Pull is $7.99 US.

An alternative possibility could also be a failing ignition coil, but from what you described, it sounds more like an injector problem.

Good luck!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 3:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2014 1:12 pm
Posts: 56
Location: St. Louis Mo
suzukitom wrote:
Stalling symptoms after the engine is warmed up, or upon a warm restart, is an indication of possible failing injector. If the car always starts reliably when cold, this strengthens the diagnosis of a failing injector. (specifically, an injector coil shorting when hot)

At some point, if the injector is indeed shorting, the frequency of stalling will be such that the car will stall or begin lurching while driving at a steady speed.

A used Metro fuel injector from Pic n Pull is $7.99 US.

An alternative possibility could also be a failing ignition coil, but from what you described, it sounds more like an injector problem.

Good luck!


its been steadily getting worse over the past 5 months. it is on RESTART only after motor is nice and hot. shut car off go back out in half hour and it gives me trouble. but if you give it gas and give it a quick few revs she'll stay running and not give me anymore issues.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 6:18 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:14 am
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Location: Prince George B.C. Canada
Joeyman wrote:
suzukitom wrote:
Stalling symptoms after the engine is warmed up, or upon a warm restart, is an indication of possible failing injector. If the car always starts reliably when cold, this strengthens the diagnosis of a failing injector. (specifically, an injector coil shorting when hot)

At some point, if the injector is indeed shorting, the frequency of stalling will be such that the car will stall or begin lurching while driving at a steady speed.

A used Metro fuel injector from Pic n Pull is $7.99 US.

An alternative possibility could also be a failing ignition coil, but from what you described, it sounds more like an injector problem.

Good luck!


its been steadily getting worse over the past 5 months. it is on RESTART only after motor is nice and hot. shut car off go back out in half hour and it gives me trouble. but if you give it gas and give it a quick few revs she'll stay running and not give me anymore issues.


I have the same problem in my '96 Blazer. I blame it on a leaking fuel injection. When cold, it starts great but as it warms up it becomes harder to start. I can even leave it for a few hours once fully warmed and it is still "bitchy". All the leaking fuel is still puddling in the intake. Depress the peddle and it starts fairly quickly but still struggles a bit. I don't have to "rev it a few times". Are you sure you need to or will it clear up on its own?

Do these symptoms sound familiar?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 11:32 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2014 1:12 pm
Posts: 56
Location: St. Louis Mo
top down@-40 wrote:
Joeyman wrote:
suzukitom wrote:
Stalling symptoms after the engine is warmed up, or upon a warm restart, is an indication of possible failing injector. If the car always starts reliably when cold, this strengthens the diagnosis of a failing injector. (specifically, an injector coil shorting when hot)

At some point, if the injector is indeed shorting, the frequency of stalling will be such that the car will stall or begin lurching while driving at a steady speed.

A used Metro fuel injector from Pic n Pull is $7.99 US.

An alternative possibility could also be a failing ignition coil, but from what you described, it sounds more like an injector problem.

Good luck!


its been steadily getting worse over the past 5 months. it is on RESTART only after motor is nice and hot. shut car off go back out in half hour and it gives me trouble. but if you give it gas and give it a quick few revs she'll stay running and not give me anymore issues.


I have the same problem in my '96 Blazer. I blame it on a leaking fuel injection. When cold, it starts great but as it warms up it becomes harder to start. I can even leave it for a few hours once fully warmed and it is still "bitchy". All the leaking fuel is still puddling in the intake. Depress the peddle and it starts fairly quickly but still struggles a bit. I don't have to "rev it a few times". Are you sure you need to or will it clear up on its own?

Do these symptoms sound familiar?


IF I don't rev it. car will just keep dieing


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 3:05 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:14 am
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Location: Prince George B.C. Canada
If your fuel leak is larger it may sputter and stall a few times before it clears out enough to run without giving it some revs. Crank it to starting a few times and see if clears up as you proceed without "clearing it out"..

Steadily been getting worse could indicate a failing o-ring or two in the injectors or a sticky injector that continually dumps fuel into the intake.

Does it restart fine after you fought with it to restart and shut it off again for a while longer or is it a pain again the second/third time?


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