TeamSwift

Home of the Suzuki mini-compacts ! Your Home for all things Suzuki Swift, Geo Metro, Holden Barina, Chevy Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, and Suzuki Cultus. TeamSwift is a technical performance oriented community!
It is currently Tue Oct 24, 2017 6:17 am

Underbody braces, turbos and more!

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 186 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 4, 5, 6, 7, 8  Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 4:09 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2003 11:40 pm
Posts: 174
Location: Jamaica, Kingston
just 2 small questions

suprf1y

how do you make the lift 0.340" from 0.295"(stock gti)? do you add material?

does more duration give the engine higher rpm power?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 1:29 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2003 11:40 pm
Posts: 174
Location: Jamaica, Kingston
do you have any gti cores now?

i want you to build be some cams but i cant get the cores to send you.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 3:54 pm 
Offline
Moderator
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:16 am
Posts: 8033
Location: Ontario, Canada
badboyscyari wrote:
just 2 small questions

suprf1y

how do you make the lift 0.340" from 0.295"(stock gti)? do you add material?

does more duration give the engine higher rpm power?


I don't add material, I grind the whole lobe, with a new profile. It involves, ussually, taking more material from the base circle to increase the lift.
Yes, more duration will shift the powerband up. You can use a 'rule of thumb' of 10 degrees(at .050") equals a powerband shift of about 1000RPM with the small 16V motors.
Stock intake duration is 192, and power is good to about 6500RPM. With my 210/340 cams, power has been made up to 8800RPM, which is where they stopped testing.
I do have cores right now.
PM me if you would like more info.

_________________
Contact 3tech: g10pro@rocketmail.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 4:49 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2003 11:40 pm
Posts: 174
Location: Jamaica, Kingston
cool

i just getting the money together.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 6:52 am 
Offline
Certified (nuts)

Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 4:07 am
Posts: 824
Location: Kildare, IRELAND.
How much 4a set of 210/340 wit no cores?
Is this grind the next grind up from stock?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:54 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2003 11:40 pm
Posts: 174
Location: Jamaica, Kingston
on sep 21 he said $280+shipping for the 210/340 gti cams


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 11:02 am 
Offline
Moderator
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:16 am
Posts: 8033
Location: Ontario, Canada
badboyscyari wrote:
on sep 21 he said $280+shipping for the 210/340 gti cams


On supplied cores, or as exchange.

_________________
Contact 3tech: g10pro@rocketmail.com


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 4:22 am 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2005 11:02 pm
Posts: 1
Location: CA.
I have one of superflies cams. :D 91 Geo 1.0L 3 cyl. Bored 20 thousandths over. Complete rebuildt, and balanced block.Not yet installed and running. Not through with Suspension mods yet. I've been thinking about some stronger springs for better cornering. :shock: I have a guy that will make a 2 1/4" exhaust system for me for $150.00 USd. U do'nt think 2 1/4" is to big? Do U? I also found a wing that mounts on the hatch 44" $169.00 USd :wink: Have you tried Denso iridium plugs yet?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 11:46 pm 
Offline
Former TeamSwift Admin
Former TeamSwift Admin
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2002 9:58 am
Posts: 8146
Location: Seattle, WA
stick with the stock ngk plugs if you want your car to run halfway decent, the iridium and platinum plugs just don't work well, esp. for the cost. 2"+ is just tooo large for a non-turbo 3cyl, 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" will work much better for you, check the non-turbo 3cyl section & general performance for more ideas.

_________________
'92 Swift GT, '94 Swift GT, '88 Turbo Sprint, '98 Swift ... all sold years ago


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 12:07 am 
Offline
Moderator
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:16 am
Posts: 8033
Location: Ontario, Canada
Look here

http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

Try to keep the topic to camshafts here.

_________________
Contact 3tech: g10pro@rocketmail.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:17 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2003 11:40 pm
Posts: 174
Location: Jamaica, Kingston
hey can my valve springs be old and tired???? i dont want my valvetrain to fail on me........


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 9:39 pm 
Offline
Moderator
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:16 am
Posts: 8033
Location: Ontario, Canada
Not likely, unless you have an insane amount of mileage, or have abused/overheated the motor repeatedly.
The stock GT springs are very high quality

_________________
Contact 3tech: g10pro@rocketmail.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: 1995 geo 1.0 - 5 speed
PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2005 10:05 pm 
Offline
banned

Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 9:57 pm
Posts: 9
Location: virginia
mike, i am new here, but not new to modification of cars. i recently picked up a 1995 metty 3cyl 5 spd. and i want to make it fast. i would prefer to make a custom turbo, but i am going to start with N/A first. if i bought your 375 cam, would i be able to turbo later with good results, or do you prefer a different grind for better turbo appeal? i haven't decided on a turbo yet, but the ihi rhb32 is looking like the one since it was a factory turbo and the manifold and dp are able to be bought/found. if i go with the 375 for N/A and change later that is not a problem, but what other mods do you recommend with this cam? i plan on getting a head or some headwork done. what is the stock CR on these motors? do i need to get pistons to compliment the cam? also what power ranges can you see out of this 375 cam and about 10:1 CR - with good exhaust?

also, do you have an updated list of cam profiles and prices?

thanks,
chuck

_________________
anyone want to buy a miata?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2005 10:58 am 
Offline
banned

Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 9:57 pm
Posts: 9
Location: virginia
bump. does anyone post on this forum?

_________________
anyone want to buy a miata?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2005 12:31 pm 
Offline
Moderator
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:16 am
Posts: 8033
Location: Ontario, Canada
miata-wheeelie wrote:
bump. does anyone post on this forum?

Yes, but you only posted the question 2 days ago, and likely at the busiest time of year for many of us.
I only recomend the 375 cam for race applications. Its not that wild, but it does have a long advertised duration, and will foul plugs in a daily driver/idle situation. The 365/222 is the way to go. It makes no diff whether you are turbo, or not. Cam based on your intended RPM range. This cam will give you power to 6500 without any problems. A 1 7/8"-2" free flowing exh. is recomended. A +10 timing advance sprocket should be your first mod. These cars are heavy, and need all the bottom end help they can get.
Stock compression is 9.5, buy actually closer to about 9.2. 10-1 would help alot.
Power numbers? I can't help you there. I have never dyno'd any of the 3cyl. motors.

_________________
Contact 3tech: g10pro@rocketmail.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2005 1:50 pm 
Offline
banned

Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 9:57 pm
Posts: 9
Location: virginia
i know you recommend the +10 advance sprocket, but if i mill my head .030" how much would that retard my cam timing? also, do you know how much i can shave a stock head and what the compression ratios would be? do you have a price list and a complete parts list of all the items you sell?

thanks

how much for the 365 cam? and sprocket? and where do i send the paypal?


oh, sorry for sounding crappy about the bump post, but i noticed that this thread had been started quite a few months ago and i didnt know if it was still active.

_________________
anyone want to buy a miata?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2005 2:02 pm 
Offline
Moderator
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:16 am
Posts: 8033
Location: Ontario, Canada
most of the stuff is priced on http://www.teamswift.net/3tech
I don't price the cams beecause there are alot of potential price differences
The cost of that cam would be
$160 + $35 core + $25 for the sprocket.
Shipping would be about $15
If I recall, you retard 1 degree per.020" of material removal from the head, but its easy to figure out.
You should be able to take about .100"+ from a metro head.
.040" is about the most you'd want on the street. More than that, and you can't run enough timing to make good power on pump gas.

_________________
Contact 3tech: g10pro@rocketmail.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2005 11:52 pm 
Offline
banned

Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 9:57 pm
Posts: 9
Location: virginia
i was reading that you were selling these for $125 plus shipping. i can send a core - no problem. will you still honor this price? also, can you give me a total with the +10 cam gear and shipping. also i need your paypal account name.

_________________
anyone want to buy a miata?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2005 10:40 am 
Offline
Moderator
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:16 am
Posts: 8033
Location: Ontario, Canada
Quote:
was reading that you were selling these for $125 plus shipping.

Where were you reading that?

It breaks down like this.
Grind service $130
Extra machining for that grind $25
Core charge $35 (send me one, and I will grind it for you, or send your old one back for a refund)
If you read the whole thread you would have seen that.

_________________
Contact 3tech: g10pro@rocketmail.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2005 6:35 pm 
Offline
Moderator
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:16 am
Posts: 8033
Location: Ontario, Canada
That was about a year and a half ago.
Before, and after that, I believe, there was an explanation of the core charge.
I don't expect there to be a price increase on cams in the new year.

_________________
Contact 3tech: g10pro@rocketmail.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2005 8:16 pm 
Offline
banned

Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 9:57 pm
Posts: 9
Location: virginia
i wasn't referring to the core charge. it's the extra grinding charge that bothers me.

_________________
anyone want to buy a miata?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2005 8:53 pm 
Offline
Moderator
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:16 am
Posts: 8033
Location: Ontario, Canada
miata-wheeelie wrote:
i wasn't referring to the core charge. it's the extra grinding charge that bothers me.

Where is there mention of an extra grinding charge?
If you cared to read up, you would find out exactly what the charge is for.
I am the only one that grinds this profile on the 3cyl. cam for 2 reasons.
a)Nobody cares enough to figure out how to put this grind on the 3cyl. cam, and make it work, and...
b)Even if they did, they want to go to the extra trouble of modifying it to fit, due to the higher lift, and resultant interference involved, especially for $25.
Its a bargain.
If you are not interested in my cams, go my my competitor who offers only one grind, and charges roughly double what I do, and get an education.
Thank you, and have a nice day.

_________________
Contact 3tech: g10pro@rocketmail.com


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 1:24 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 4:52 pm
Posts: 634
Location: Eastern Ontario
hey mike (or anyone) -

for the uninitiated (i.e. me) could you explain the theory behind the mpg/economy cam and how it achieves its goals when compared to the stock cam? also, i've read you recommend a different cam sprocket to change timing for the economy cam as well. could you explain that too?

i had a good read through this thread and while the past couple of days posts have been entertaining, i didn't see anything specific on that topic. which either means (a) people are smarter than me and don't need to ask, or (b) nobody's bothered to ask yet, or (c) i missed something.

if i had to guess, the lower lift = reduced internal resistance. shorter duration = slightly improved compression (assuming the stock cam's intake valve is open beyond BDC - and i have no idea if it is). but those are uneducated guesses.

an educated explanation would be great...

_________________
Image
www.MetroMPG.com ... www.ForkenSwift.com
... www.EcoModder.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 3:00 pm 
Offline
Moderator
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:16 am
Posts: 8033
Location: Ontario, Canada
suprf1y wrote:
I've been selling a fuel efficiency/MPG cam fore awhile. Since B'villetom has a few Metro daily drivers, and alot of experience with the 3cyl. motor, I asked him to test one of these cams for me. The fact that he is a cheapass, and loves his gas mileage, makes him an even better tester, as far as I am concerned.
Tom bought a 96 Metro with a bad motor, and wanted to use this as his daily driver. After completion, he was complaining that it was not only a bit of a dog, but also not as good on gas as the earlier cars. While it was a nice driving car, it just wasn't the same. I thought it was the perfect oppurtunity to get some testing done, and see if we could get the gas mileage up a bit.
Tom posted something up on the turbo haven, and since he doesn't care much for typing, asked me to move it here for him.

Quote:

I'm not building race motors right now so I have taken on a new project. As a little background, I have been driving 3 cylinder Metros for 3 to 4 years now. A 1991 and 1994 Mark II 5 speed, 2 door as a daily driver as well as for long trips. They are lightweight, nimble & fun to drive. In about 35,000 miles, the gas mileage has been between 44 MPG to 52 MPG consistently.

I bought a 1996 Metro 2 door 5-speed with a dead motor. I rebuilt the motor without modification and it is my driver now. It drives much better, doesn't sway as much and more quiet than the older cars but won't get gas mileage worth a hoot! It is an OBD II car which bothered me, but thats not the problem. I have run 18 tanks of fuel through it and its average MPG is 38.56, a long way from the Mark II 3 cylinder cars. I finally figured out why, it is 300 lb. heavier, approximately 2" wider and approximately 2" taller and is over geared. It looks so good; swoopy and clean but the same 3 cylinder is working its tail off.

I'm doing some R&D for Suprfly (Mike) on a new mileage cam. I did a hot compression test on the engine before I put the test cam in:
#1 - 182, #2 - 178 and #3- 180 lbs.
I did the same test after the new cam was installed: The hot compression test was:
#1 - 195, #2 - 185 and #3 - 190 lbs.
The compression increase is probably because of shorter duration which should help the low and mid-range power.

I was correct, my low and mid range throttle response and smoothness of the motor after the new cam was installed was greatly improved as well as drivability. I can do second gear roll outs from stop signs now and couldn't before. I would expect the top end power to be down but I'm still on the first tank of gas. I will provide more information on MPG figures later.

B'ville Tom

I assume that you've read this?
In short, you are right. The lower lift means less aiflow, and less fuel. The shorter duration increases cylinder pressure for more power, but also moves the efficiency range of the motor closer to where you will likely be using it, considering your high mpg aspirations.
Less airflow/fuel, less RPM, more MPG.
Its a great combo (cam/sprocket) for the heavier 95+ cars, especially if mpg is your goal.
As I recall, his mpg increase was around 8%, but that info is in here, too.

_________________
Contact 3tech: g10pro@rocketmail.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 7:15 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 4:52 pm
Posts: 634
Location: Eastern Ontario
thanks for the reply. yup, i had seen the posts you quoted.

ok, i've got lift & duration down, but why do you also adjust the MPG cam's timing with the new sprocket? how does that help with efficiency?

i think having it explained in this thread would help for others looking for info. (if i had to take a guess, i suspect the mpg crowd is probably less fluent on valve/cam dynamics than the racing/performance crowd.)

_________________
Image
www.MetroMPG.com ... www.ForkenSwift.com
... www.EcoModder.com


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 186 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 4, 5, 6, 7, 8  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group