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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 5:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 2:53 am
Posts: 6
Location: Regina, Canada
I used the Fluid Film It is a superior lubricant and provides rust and corrosion protection. You can even use it to wax your car.
Its awesome stuff


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 12:30 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:35 pm
Posts: 2433
Location: Regina, SK
yezok wrote:
I used the Fluid Film It is a superior lubricant and provides rust and corrosion protection. You can even use it to wax your car.
Its awesome stuff


I guess I shouldn't argue, I use it too. :lol:

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:52 am
Posts: 36
Location: Maryland
Does anyone by any chance have part numbers for either the Chevy part, or the Suzuki part? I just bought my car, and other than the trans mission rebuild, the drivers window is a royal pain!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 2:23 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 2:53 am
Posts: 6
Location: Regina, Canada
DickyDck wrote:
Does anyone by any chance have part numbers for either the Chevy part, or the Suzuki part? I just bought my car, and other than the trans mission rebuild, the drivers window is a royal pain!

No I don't


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PostPosted: Sun May 02, 2010 7:06 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 6:23 am
Posts: 1750
Location: Washington, DC
Suzuki part #'s, two door hatchback:

83410-50G00 Right door
83440-50G00 Left door

$77 at SouthWest Suzuki

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91 Pontiac Firefly Turbo
10 Suzuki Kizashi


Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency


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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 1:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2009 7:36 pm
Posts: 274
Location: Maplewood, NY
This has nothing to do with the regulator repair process, but I've been browsing for replacement parts for my GTi, and I got onto http://www.suzukicarparts.com/, and I see left and right window regulators available.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 6:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:21 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Oss, the Netherlands
I did my window yesterday and it's like new. I couldn't get the rail to bend in the right spot, but I solved that by putting two bolts in the slot, right were I wanted it to bend. I oiled the mechanism and used a tiny bit of silicone spray on the guide rail rubbers, now it goes smooth and straight up even at highway speeds. The wind noise is also gone now. I think that noise came from the mirror housing base, being pushed to the outside by the guide rail rubber that gets folded by a crooked window. Sharp edges in wind are noisy =)

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'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 7:54 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 22, 2009 2:24 pm
Posts: 38
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
All my regulator woes are from the glide rollers, they are always cracked. The crack eventually ends facing downward because of the downward pressure from the window above it. Getting the small wheel off the small axle it rolls on is doable but then even if it can be repaired, you won't then be able to get it back on the axle. The small axle is spot riveted in place. The wheel has got to be repaired while still on the axle. Often, it's not worth repairing as it is so flattened, it won't roll after the repair. I have repaired the roller by thoroughly cleaning all lubrication off it and the surrounding area, roughing up the surfaces and using super glue and letting it sit overnight. The rail can be straightened out by any workable method. As others have commented, the end vertical slide rails also have to be dealt with as necessary. One step at a time & common sense, containing items in a container(s), orderly placement of bits removed that have to be replaced, and it all becomes pretty workable. Every window is a little different than the next.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 5:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:57 pm
Posts: 67
Location: colorado
Wow, thanks for this great write up, and the pictures. Now I have fixed the driver side windows in both of my cars, it's such an easy fix after you know what your looking for and to do to it once you find the problem. Thanks again..

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Jon

'91 Geo Metro 3cyl 5 speed 12" wheels 50 + MPG.
'37 Chevy Coupe
'00 VW Passat 4Motion Wagon
'95 GMC Pickup short bed 4x4
'82 28 foot rv, but diesel is too expensive to drive now.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 5:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:35 pm
Posts: 2433
Location: Regina, SK
My driver side was fixable... my passenger side... I still can't use the window unless I stop and then close it. The regulator was so warped/twisted.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2010 5:56 pm
Posts: 1035
Location: Wahiawa, HI
I did the window regulator remove/repair thing today with great results.

Here's what I can add to the thread:

My horizontal fixed tracks weren't spreading very much (a tiny bit on the driver's side, so I just pinched it back a little rather than fabricating) in my case the cross members were bent and I ended up having a plate welded accross the back of the smaller one to reinforce it after straightening them both out.

The track attached to the glass on the driver's side was also spreading and getting rough. I found, while not a perfect solution, that I could swap that part with the one from the passenger's side (they are not the same but this still works) which fixed the driver's side and works as well as it did before on the passenger side. Doing both sides at once was helpful because the stuff that wasn't trashed in the passenger door helped me figure out what it was supposed to look like on the other side. Also grease was dry and sticky paste in both doors--not helping much.

I managed to break one window roller and the other door handle (already broken) in the process--my interior is getting brittle. I put in new door handles, but I am leaving the stupid trim around them off, and I think I might put stick-tack in my window rollers to keep them on rather than the clip because the clip was a serious pain in the butt and I don't want to carry another tool with me everywhere.

I don't really recommend anybody do this, but while I was waiting on a chance to get the regulator welded I pullled the window up with a strap and tied it off to the armrest to set the height. It was hard to "roll" up with one hand while driving but not hard to open to whatever level you want. Also whistled like crazy unless you open just slightly all the time--have to do this anyway with worn regulators, but if it's that bad you should just fix them anyway. Silly and kind of stupid, but it worked better than the broken regulator (the window could not be rolled down all the way, two hands to roll up). I am concerned the tie-offs I fabricaed could tear out my femoral artery in a wreck

This is seriously rigged, but it's worthwhile to note that with this set up I could take out the windows in less than 5 minutes and I hope it's good for a laugh...

Image

Image

Image

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Quote:
No one expects the Spanish Inquisition!

Spanish Inquisition Racing chip burning service--build yourself a custom chip!
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=57216


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
No need to worry about your femoral artery being torn out.
It is on the inside aspect of your thigh.
Remember the mnemonic 'VAN'?
If not, there's a vein, then the artery, and finally a nerve.
So use your 'modification' with impunity!
:thumb2:

I guess it wouldn't hurt to expand this door regulator thread to include a few parts on the door, so grab a seat and prepare for a LONG read...

Like you, I spent this past week fixing a driver's side door card, regulator and replacing the horizontal slide piece
Image
on the outside of the window. I also adjusted the hinges so the door shut right and fixed the seat belt from hitting the door...but more on that later.

There are a few things I can add.
The USA cars having the seat belt in the door ('92-'94) are a little different.
This post shows a '94 Swift.

Be prepared; you have NO idea what you will find when you pop that door card.
Here's what I encountered:
Image
Someone decided to run 3 bolts through the regulator and back them up with nuts on the inside.
Not impossible to remove, but they did bend the bracket a bit.
The point?
You may think that you will fix one thing on the door (be done in 30 minutes) and find 10 things that need repair.
So be prepared, that's all.

The door card is a particle board which deteriorates easily with moisture.
I shot a bit of water through a spray bottle at this lower section and worked a little bit of Elmer's Glue
Image
into the dark areas with a tiny flat blade screwdriver. Then I covered it with some wax paper and clamped it.
You are looking at the results. Those little holes are now firm and hold the push pins.
I didn't go overboard with the wax paper. Just enough to cover the holes and make it easy to remove, as shown.

Next, I used some weatherstrip adhesive (the yellow stuff) to glue the vinyl to the particle board and clipped it with some clothes pins.

The actual door lock on removal
Image
had a broken set of wires.
That is why I had to take it out of the door.
One Phillips screw and the mechanism is visible for cleaning and new grease:
Image
After checking the switch with an ohm meter, it appeared to be working, so it was probably a good idea to solder the wires back together:
Image
and then slide the little insulation back over the shrink wrap
Image

A word on door adjustment.
The outside latch is easy to adjust once you decide to go as deeply into the door as I did.
All you have to do is pop the little plastic 'keeper' on the inside of the latch, remove it carefully from the latch and twist the little nut/tit affair a few turns counter clockwise (looking from the top). That will cause the latch to be actuated sooner in the pull of the handle. This avoids the dreaded broken outside handle pulls that seem pretty rampant in neglected Swifts and Metros.
In case you are wondering what the little nut/tit affair is, here's a picture of it:
Image
and it is the shiny part sticking out to the right.

Maybe the last person to fix the door (there was broken glass inside the bottom of the door) didn't route the wires properly, allowing them to be sheared.
Here is a view down the top of the door through the window slat showing how close the clearances are:
Image

After the lock wiring, window regulator, and door hinges were adjusted lubed and/or cleaned, a new vapor barrier was made using some clear stock obtained at a hardware store and a template. Again, the '89-'92 template is fine, but you have to make allowances for the seat belt retractor.
Image
The clear plastic vapor barrier isn't really visible in the picture unless you look carefully.
There is a black tar like substance which is used to hold that plastic vapor barrier in place.
I always forget the name of that stuff, so I'll look it up again and post it here in case you want to go off and buy some for a later project.
CRL Black 1/16" x 3/8" Butyl Architectural Tape
(note the size; that is stock size...)

'The Devil is in the Detail' so here is a picture of a short section which should also get some of that tape:
Image
and here is another view toward the front of the door; make sure to avoid your push pin holes:
Image
(now the regulator has the original 4 Phillips head screws :thumb2: )

Here's a bit of '92-'94 specific information:
Getting the door to shut right might involve that seat belt metal part at the top of the door.
Use a tiny flat blade screwdriver to pop out the protective rubber cover and you will see 2 bolts which take a 10 mm socket:
Image
and it should be a snap to fix that if it is hitting.
Don't wait 4 years like I did! :oops: :oops: :oops:

Be patient, work carefully and pay attention to detail.
When you are done
Image
you will be amazed at how easily the door shuts. The damage to the door vinyl at the bottom is temporary.
The damage will fade with time.

Although I didn't take pictures, this project required removing the front fender and fender liner.
You will probably need to replace a few of those black push pins, as they get old and crack.
That gives you excellent access to the door hinges so you can adjust the door 'perfectly'.
Before assembly, a bit of sound deadener was applied to the inside of the fender and door.
You should also dig out a spray bottle of silicone for your window runners, and I found a part of one runner on the floor of the door, so I needed to pull out the 'weatherstrip adhesive' and glue that part back into the metal window channel.

The door lock has two sets of wires. The one set which was NOT broken work the automatic lock mechanism.
The other set apparently works a buzzer under the dash???
If someone has a factory manual on the subject, this thread would be a nice place to post the pages.
Maybe it's a bit late for this door, but it might help the next guy.
Now that this door is adjusted and put together correctly, it will be easy to take apart if needed, and there will be no surprises.

Having an engine which is efficient with no leaks is important; having a door which is quiet, opens easily, doesn't have to be slammed and a window you don't have to pull while rolling up?

Priceless!

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 11:05 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:56 pm
Posts: 6347
Location: Emerald city Washington
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.
Image

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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