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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 3:43 pm 
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Location: Abbotsford, BC
I'm trying to follow this guide for my 94 g10, but my setup seems to be a little different. Firstly, my cam sprocket is the spoked sort, and has two notches. I assume it's the one with the mark on the spoke.

Secondly, when I line up the cam sprocket, it is between strokes, as in I have to struggle to keep it in position. Is this normal, or did they put my cam sprocket on incorrectly (I just got the head rebuilt)?

Here are pics of my attempt at putting on the new belt:
Image
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:43 pm 
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Location: London, ON
It's normal if you can't quite get it aligned without fussing with it. If it sits in it's easiest position you won't have it properly aligned and it'll run like crap. You'll know when you start it if it's one tooth retarded. If it's one tooth advanced, it'll ping more than usual.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:26 pm 
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Location: Olympia, WA
Jaxx wrote:
Hey Guys,

I have a 93 Geo Metro Convertible and I want to replace the timing belt. I'm trying to find the right one on ebay but they have "4 Bolt Hole/Sprocket" and "5 Bolt Hole/Sprocket" Belts. How can I find out which one I need?

Thanks a lot guys!

Jaxx



I have I 5-bolt main on my '93 "Dust Bucket" convertible. It has a "spoke" cam sprocket and uses a round-tooth rather than a square-tooth timing belt.

Ongoing story of the saga of my Dust Bucket Convertible (with pics, but see page 3 for a good look at the round-tooth sprocket - it's not at TDC in the picture though):
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=43561

See the following link for an annotated picture of how to remove the timing belt on a 1.0 3-cyl block:
http://www.teamswift.net/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=870&image_id=17932

Not sure why the timing mark isn't lining up on the top... strange. Has the head been shaved? That might affect it, and if so, it seems like the sprocket alignment would be a half-tooth off in the counter-clockwise direction rather than where I see it in the photo.

Also... see that cam alignment pin under the edge of the sprocket bolt? I'm a little concerned that it looks like it's not sticking out far enough to touch the underside of the flange on the cam bolt... Read the bottom of page one on this thread starting at the "Ah hah!!!" to see what can happen if it's recessed too far into the end of the cam:
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=39843


Last edited by G-Whiz on Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:12 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:56 pm 
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Location: Cambridge
Thanks for the great link G-Whiz, There is a ton of useful information included in your thread, I especially enjoyed the pics.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:05 pm 
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Strength (safety and wisdom) in numbers!
That's why I LOVE this site! :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:41 pm 
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Amen


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 5:59 pm 
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Posts: 13
Location: Midwest
Hi Guys,

Got my performance head package back from 3Tech! Wow, what an amazing job he did ya'll. I can't wait to get her running again. Problem is this, and this is my excuse so I am sticking to it :lol: ....

It has been forever since I took it apart. I had to go back to the "sandbox" for a bit again.

I have installed the altered cam timing gear using the new marks and hole. I put had the tensioner stud and tensioner bolt loose. I turned the engine over two full revolutions. Came back to TDC trying to take out the slack and also make sure things rotated smoothly. No interference.

But...

I can't get rid of the slack in the belt. I have followed the 4 inch GM manual to the T. It says to tighten the tensioner bolt first then the stud. Still no help.

Any ideas?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 7:15 pm 
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Location: London, ON
How much slack are we talking? It shouldn't be 'tight', but have a cm or so of 'slackness'.

Also, are you sure it's the right belt? The right belt doesn't have much slack to start with.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 11:54 pm 
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Location: Alabama
I have a 1994 Swift G13, and it has a few differences. Like the 1994 G10 pictures above, I have the spoked design on the upper gear, and the 5 - 8mm bolts on the bottom. The G13 is packaged much more tightly. I had to break several plastic brackets and bend a plastic under body panel out of the way before I could see where the bolts were. Even when I got them out, the crank pulley wouldn't come off, because there physically isn't room! I tried prying, but to no avail. Since I don't have AC, I decided that instead of doing anything drastic like pulling the engine (which I don't have equipment for) I would bolt the pulley back on, and use my sawzall and a 12 inch blade to cut off the AC pulley. I just lined it up in the nearest groove, and cut away. If it started to stray, I rotated the pulley and started again. It worked really well, and allowed me to remove the pulley, replace the timing belt, and put it back on without a need for extenders on the sockets. I wouldn't recommend this approach for people that have AC and intend on keeping it, but it worked for me.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 2:00 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 03, 2008 11:37 am
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Location: Alabama
Oh, and I was wondering, while I am working on the timing belt I want to advance my timing... my question is, "How?". I have looked a lot online, and haven't found any good pictures describing the process. I stole this picture from the first post (thanks), but was wondering if I move the top pulley or the bottom pulley, and if I rotate clockwise or counter-clockwise. Thanks.
Image


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 2:49 am 
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Oh my god..

When you do the timing belt on a 4 cylinder you have to drop the front of the engine down, to get the pulley off.

Your car is gonna run like a rock crusher if you don't get that pulley balanced.

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I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 7:10 am 
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I bought a 10 degree advanced cam from 3 tech to accomplish this...no rock crushers for me.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:25 am 
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You can't advance valve timing by just rotating the pulley, one tooth is far too many degrees advance to work right. You have to buy an advance pulley that has been redrilled to get you half a tooth advance or something like that. I think a tooth is 18 degrees and reasonable advance goals are 6, 8, or 10 degrees.

Gamefoo21 is right, that's a balanced pulley, you probably just introduced an off balance thing. Might get away with it, but it's not a good idea.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:40 pm 
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wyatt wrote:
I want to advance my timing... my question is, "How?"

:shock:
Why not advance the distributor?
:huh:

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:49 pm 
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Location: Cambridge
that's spark timing, we're talking about valve timing


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:28 am 
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Location: wrexham, wales. UK
hi, thanks for that. so far it's on and pinking a bit. going to take it for a spin and see what happens. thank again. the chilton was no help what so ever. 96 swift GLS 1.0 still drives on............ :arrow:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 3:17 am 
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Location: Levittown PA USA
all the pics are gone?? I have to do my timing belt tomorrow (it broke tonight) I have an entire kit coming in the mail. its sitting in horsham but UPS refuses to let me have it till its "scheduled" delivery date monday Grrrrrr

so $22 will get just a timing belt and do tensioner etc.. when I get the parts monday.

its a 94 xfi any help would be greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 11:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2015 2:28 pm
Posts: 38
Location: Canada
how do i know if i need to replace the tensioner or not? it looks kinda scratched up but not too bad... couod i replace the belt then replace the tensioner in a couple weeks?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 11:16 am 
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Yes, that will be fine. Technically tensioner should be replaced at around 200k or second belt change. In reality Suzuki tensioners have an incredibly low failure rate and it very likely will last as long as the car does. Give it a spin to make sure it doesn't sound awful, but otherwise continue on and get the car running with a belt change. If you plan to go back in later, I'd replace the waterpump and camshaft and crankshaft seals. Those are very common to leak, and are often misdiagnosed as oil pan leaks. Armed with the parts in hand, this job won't take you to long at a later date, just need to have a plan to remove lower crank bolt if you don't have a good impact on hand.

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