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 Post subject: broken door latch fix
PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 10:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 9:37 am
Posts: 1172
Location: Memphis, TN
I know many have had the opportunity to open a door only to find out that it will not. I recently had 2 doors
do this. Here's my simple $1.50 fix and what I used. Yeah you could go to the junkyard and find some working
handles but how long before they break?
Image
machine screws, nuts and washers, a 1/8" drill bit, 10MM wrench (if you want to pull the handle-not necessary),
door panel thingy (to remove door panel or the big flat head screw driver), a small flathead screw driver, phillips
head screw driver, and some tape to put the moisture barrier back together if yours was torn like mine,
scissors to cut tape.
First, remove arm rest with phillip head screw driver. Then start removing the door panel. Along the edge
you will feel some tension, these are plastic retainers. Gently pry along to ease them out.
Image
Next, remove the window crank. You will need to use the small flathead screw driver in and push the metal tab out.Image
Image
Next you'll remove the handle bezel. I used the flathead screw driver again to gently raise the tabs on the
bezel away from the mechanism on the door. Here's a pic of how the tabs look. It was difficult to shoot and
show how to do it.
Image
Image
Once you get the panel off, you'll have a plastic moisture barrier to peel away. Just peel the end were the
work will be done, at the locking mechanism.
Image
Alright, now the fun stuff. 9 times out of time, when you get to the handle, it will look like this. Image
If you look down at the bottom of the door, you'll find this little jewel.
Image
This is what it's supposed to look like.
Image
I believe it's just a piss poor design because the plastic barrel is taking on the stresses of someone popping
the latch and pulling the door at the same time.
Now, get that trusty screwdriver and 1/8" drill bit and stick it in the
plastic barrel hole. Drill all the way until it pops out the exterior side.
Image
Then go on the outside and drill inwards to wallow it out a bit. Image
Not too much because you will want the screw to have a little bite to hold it in place.
Washers, nuts and bolts
ImageImage
!st stick the screw in from the inside out. This will give you threads in the plastic. Now stick the screw from the outside in, like so.Image
If you didn't wallow the hole too much, it should be pretty snug fitting. Now remove the OEM screw from
the plastic barrel.
Image
And put the assembly back together.
Image
Notice I used the existing broken pieces. This is a good guide as to how far to tighten the nut and since the pieces aren't really stressed anymore, it doesn't matter that it's broken. I thought about cutting the plastic barrel off and using a metal sleeve of some sorts but I thought this would do the trick.
ImageImageImage
And this is the view from a 5'7" guy. Hardly noticeable. I was going to paint the screw head black but thought....the heck with it. I'm just glad I can open my doors again. :D Enjoy.
Image

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 5:45 am 
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Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
That is a great How To you posted! Nice job.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:37 pm 
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Nice DIY. Will add to my 'arsenal' of tricks.
Thanks!
:D

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 8:42 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2007 9:01 pm
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Location: Massachusettes
Nice to know this is a widespread problem rather than just mine!

Good writeup! That damn window crank clip was holding me back from fisxing this problem last weekend, now i know how to defeat this evil!

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95' Metro 4-door 1.3L
Takedowns:
1991 Toyota Corolla
1975 VW Micro Bus
1989 Toyota Torcel
1994 Buick Roadmaster

"haha, well in normal cars he would actually be right"
"But yours isn't normal.......its canadian"


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 7:03 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:46 pm
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Location: Abbotsford, BC
nice guide. however - i'd recommend to change topic to MK4 door handle repair to make it more specific.

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2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 9:34 pm 
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1995Firefly4dr wrote:
nice guide. however - i'd recommend to change topic to MK4 door handle repair to make it more specific.


Why?

The door handles on my Mk3 look exactly like those.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 11:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:46 pm
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Location: Abbotsford, BC
fordem wrote:
1995Firefly4dr wrote:
nice guide. however - i'd recommend to change topic to MK4 door handle repair to make it more specific.


Why?

The door handles on my Mk3 look exactly like those.


Sorry, I meant to say MK3. The MK4 and MK5 are 1995 and up models - with the round door handles, not the square ones.

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1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:53 am 
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Location: Memphis, TN
yeah but I'm almost certain the MK4 are internally the same. It's been awhile since I've had my 96's door panel off.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2007 9:01 pm
Posts: 147
Location: Massachusettes
ok yesterday i tackled my rear door problem. Both outside door handles were not unlatching the latch. First off that rag trick to pop the clip off the window crank works amazingly good! :D next The Mk4 is different from the MK3 internally. MK4 has this small wheel like contraption that rides up and down in a little loop like thing (sorry i dont have pics i couldnt find my digital camera :cry: ) The little wheel was worn out and was just a little to small to make the latch pop, so i took a ziptie and put it in the loop the wheel was in so when the handle was pulled up the ziptie gave it that extra distance to make the latch pop.

The only thing that tripped me up was putting the door pannel back on, the little rubber seal that goes up against the window didnt want to go back over the door without putting up a fight.

_________________
95' Metro 4-door 1.3L
Takedowns:
1991 Toyota Corolla
1975 VW Micro Bus
1989 Toyota Torcel
1994 Buick Roadmaster

"haha, well in normal cars he would actually be right"
"But yours isn't normal.......its canadian"


Last edited by Dirty Mobster on Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:37 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 9:37 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:41 am
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Location: Texas
Awesome post. I haven't had this happen to my car yet, but i'm sure it's only a matter of time. I'll keep my fingers crossed that I don't run into this problem, but in the case that I do, this will be nice to have. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 1:40 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2008 3:03 pm
Posts: 13
Location: Brantford On, Canada
Grate how to my door handle is fine but I was having a hell of a time getting the window roller off to fix the door lock.

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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2011 3:39 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 05, 2011 3:22 pm
Posts: 1
Location: Corvallis, OR
OMG, thank you kindly for posting this much needed how-to! I've had trouble with the driver side door for a while and then today the passenger side went out. :( At least I know I'm not alone...numerous times I've gone to open the car (passenger side first, crawl through and push open the other door) I've had people remark about how they have/had to do the same with THEIR metro! Well, off to the hardware store I go. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 8:18 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2013 8:14 pm
Posts: 1
Location: Australia
That was indeed a good job. Quite complicated yet you had able to do it successfully.

Locksmith Goodyear


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