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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 9:03 pm 
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It is time for me to remove it. A search of Teamswift was not fruitful so this is what I found out.
Ammonia is great and heat helps A LOT !


"The typical warranty on window film is two years against cracking, bubbling or delaminating. The tint's adhesive eventually dries out, at which point bubbles start to appear. You may be tempted to try to repair the damage, but one bubble indicates that the glue is nearing the end of its life cycle. Instead, remove all of the film. This will save time and money whether or not you intend to re-tint the glass yourself or take it to a shop.

Materials and tools needed: black trash bags, undiluted ammonia, steel wool and a few razor blades or knife. window cleaner and paper towels.

Tips: 
The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag. 

Step 1: 
To over come separation between layers you must soften the adhesive so that both layers peel at the same time. This is very important, if you peel the just the top layer, you may as well just use razor blades as there is no way to peel the second layer off without picking at it for a few hours. You MUST try to peel both layers at once.
NOTE: 
You are more than likely to damage one or more of your defroster lines, when this happens, the cut line will not work anymore. Some cars have radio antennas mounted alongside the defrosters made of the same material. If you damage these, your radio antenna will not work! Be careful! Taking it to a tint shop to be done greatly increases the odds of saving the lines, but even a tint shop can not promise to save your lines, sometimes the film is just to far gone.


Step 2: 
First, clear the window of any obstructions, like the brake light, speaker covers etc. 

Step 3: Next cut open the garbage bag so that it will be big enough to cover the entire window. Spray some water on the outside of the back window and the lay plastic bag over the glass. Cut away excess plastic so that it is now roughly the same shape as the glass. 

Step 4: 
Next, lay a tarp over rear deck and seat, spray ammonia liberally on the inside of the back window. (Ammonia is very strong, I suggest you hold your breath during this step) and cover ammonia soaked tint with the plastic bag so that it won't evaporate. 

Step 5: 
Park the car with rear window facing the sun for about an hour. The film should now be ready to peel. 

Step 6: 
When you are ready to start peeling, leave the plastic in place so the ammonia wont dry. Get the peeling started with a razor blade in a corner where there are no defroster lines. Try to peel film off in one piece. If the ammonia dries as you peel, the glue will get hard again, so spray a bit of ammonia on the area as you peel. 

Step 7: 
Once the film is peeled you will need to scrub the adhesive off with ammonia and fine 0000 steel wool. Mop up scrubbed areas with paper towels before they dry. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels.  Inspect for missed glue (its clear and hard to see)


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daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


Last edited by xrw44 on Tue Mar 10, 2009 7:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 9:48 pm 
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Get a good razor blade and lots of Windex. Start in the corners and spray windex liberaly as you go. If you can get ammonia solution it works better but the resulting headache isn't always worth it. You can wear a carbon filter but more often than not the windex works well enough. I've seen some use a hairdryer on the outside of the window to warm it up. And as said in the article...don't cut through the defrost lines. There is a product out there made to weld them back but its never as strong as an unbroken wire.


Oh...and typical waranty in most places on a good metal based film is lifetime.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 2:33 pm 
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the heat gun works better for the rear window. better to use solvents on the glue than damage the grid. the heat sorta re melts the glue just enough that it'll wipe off the glass with a little effort.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 2:56 pm 
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Location: Atlanta, GA. USA
You spray ammonia and let it soak. Then use a razor blade to peel the edge up. Then as you pull keep spraying ammonia. Works great. Just smells bad.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 3:16 am 
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Location: New York State
xrw44 wrote:
The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag.

What do I do now that I've peeled off the top layer on my hatch window? Solvent? Heat? Hammer? I have patches of clear, half tinted and fully tinted glass. :lol:

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1994 Metro - MPH project (getting a DOHC G13B)
1994 Metro - MPG project (getting an XFi G10)
1992 Swift - Parts car (gone)
1991 Swift - Parts car (gone)
1990 Swift - Parts car
1997 Metro - Parts car (gone)
1993 Metro - Parts car
1989 Swift GTi - Parts car
1998 Metro - Parts car


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 6:43 am 
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Gasoline Fumes wrote:
xrw44 wrote:
The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag.

What do I do now that I've peeled off the top layer on my hatch window? Solvent? Heat? Hammer? I have patches of clear, half tinted and fully tinted glass. :lol:

if you have defroster wires dont scrape -- they say to use heat and soak for 1 hr as in my 1st post.

At 55F one of my side windows dry peeled in strips and then i sprayed and scraped until clean. :D
In the sun, another window was like a thousand price tags but not too bad. :) i found pulling the one sided razor blade in long strokes at an angle worked well.
Next: the hatch with wires. it peels in thumbnail pieces. :evil:

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looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 4:55 am 
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Best way I found was using a Razor and ALOT of Windex to lubricate the blade. With the Rear hatch window with the defroster lines,I just peeled the tint and scraped ALL the glue with a SOS pad(with the soap rinsed out) and again,ALOT of Windex. One other way I found was to use Steam to release the tint as a whole(Including glue).

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 5:28 am 
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Subject: How to remove window tint?

900Z1 wrote:
Tint Remover Secret....50/50 Mix... 409-Windex.. Eats the glue fast!

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looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


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