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 Post subject: Camshaft Swap - How To
PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 5:22 pm 
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Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
This has been long overdue, but the time has arrived for me to finally swap in my 3Tech economy cam and 10 degree advanced timing gear. I was going to wait until my other head project was done and just swap heads, but I can always transfer the parts. The car (Christine) is in the bay waiting patiently..............

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First thing is to remove the air cleaner assy and unhook the PCV hose and plug wires from the valve cover. To remove the valve cover, you need to remove the 4 nuts and then strike the seals counter-clockwise with a small hammer and screwdriver until you can get some pliers on them to thread them off without damage.........

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Remove the valve cover. Now we go to the water pump pulley and remove the 4 bolts with the belt still attached. You might have to use a screwdriver to hold it still.............

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Pop off the pulley and drive belt and this will expose the timing belt cover for removal, but first we need to remove the crank pulley. Jack up and safely set on stands and remove the right front tire. Now remove the small mounting bolts (older models have 4 and newer models have 5) and the pulley should come off with a couple whacks with a soft hammer.............

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Now you can remove all the timing cover bolts and remove the cover.............

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Line up the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley by rotating the engine slowly. Removing the plugs to relieve compression helps, but not needed.............

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Mark the timing belt with an arrow noting the rotation direction if you are re-using it..............

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Loosen the timing belt tensioner and remove the belt. Replace the belt if it looks due or questionable............

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Now we get to remove the camshaft. You can use a screwdriver through the cam holes if you rotate it and slide it through to hold it still so you can loosen the cam gear bolt or use an impact when it's out. Here is a reference pic so you understand..........
CLICK

Now remove the sideways bolt in cam cap #3...........

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Slowly loosen the 6 cam cap bolts. You may turn the cam slightly to relieve pressure from the lifters. This will not hurt anything, but please note the position of the distributor tabs and don't let it rotate after the cam is out. Remove the cam noting and comparing with the new cam so you know how it goes back together. Get a green scotch brite pad and clean all the cam journals and cam caps so they are nice and smooth again, but be careful not to turn the distributor tabs.............

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If you happen to tear the distributor gasket, apply a coat of RTV silicone to the side and it should seal up.

Get your new parts ready. I got the economy cam and gear and a new cam seal (Federal Mogul # 710310). Please note that older models have a solid cam gear, but the guide is the same. ...........

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Install the cam seal with a finger swipe of oil around the inner part and then use some locktite and install the cam gear to the cam and torque the bolt to 44 Ft lbs (all years) making note of the new marks on the cam gear if you have an advanced gear from 3Tech........

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Now liberally coat the cam lobes and journals with motor oil................

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Install the cam like you removed the old one and line it up to the distributor tabs...........

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Make sure the cam seal is lined properly and install the cam caps and torque to 96 in-lbs (all years)...........

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If you slightly rotated the cam during removal to relieve pressure, now is the time to rotate the cam back. Set the valve cover on so you can line the new mark with the notch in the cover.......

Install the timing belt and rotate the engine by hand 2 revolutions until the marks line up again and make sure they are correct..........

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Tighten the tensioner and re-assemble the rest just like you took it apart. Take an initial test drive and listen for engine ping (spark knock) while driving. If it is, then most likely, you are off by one tooth. Remove the belt and turn the cam counterclockwise one notch. If you notice lack of low end power, but good power at high RPM's, then turn the cam clockwise one tooth. You should be able to run this with the distributor fully advanced with the gear.

Hope this helps someone out there interested in these parts but worried about installation. Here are more torque specs if you need them.........
http://geometroforum.com/topic/1009792/

_________________
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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


Last edited by JohnnyMullet on Tue Apr 28, 2009 8:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:21 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Oss, the Netherlands
Very nice writeup. Clear pictures too. :goodpost:

With my car, the distributor gasket didn't survive, so I had to take the whole thing off and cut a new gasket. Didn't like the extra work :P

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:08 pm
Posts: 1254
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
All I have to say to other Geo Metro owners out there is that if you want more power from your 3 cylinder and better fuel mileage, then get the economy cam from 3Tech Performance and an advanced timing gear. It will pay for itself in fuel savings and smiles in no time =)

I know, it's only been a day and not long enough to get a fuel savings estimate yet, but the "Wow Factor" has got me excited :buzz:

_________________
Image
  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:24 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:06 pm
Posts: 1445
Location: Atlanta GA 30052
JohnnyMullet wrote:
... the "Wow Factor" has got me excited :buzz:

don't get too excited behind the wheel ! :jerkit:
:lol:

i predict you will see at least 1% increase in mpg starting May 1
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/fuels/420b05012.pdf

here is info on Winter Gasoline:
http://www.theoildrum.com/story/2006/9/13/234043/431

i expect to see much more mpg just from the blend. :D :D :D
All summer i easily got 53-57mpg. even 62 !
after Sept 15 it went to 47 and has stayed there +/-2 !

_________________
looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:39 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:08 pm
Posts: 1254
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Same here. In the winter my mileage was high 40's and in the summer I could get 60+ if I pushed it to do so. I really think I am able to accomplish 60 MPH at 60 MPH this summer.

I can now let up on the clutch in 1st gear without hitting the gas and the car will not stall since the swap :twisted:

_________________
Image
  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 6:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:06 pm
Posts: 1445
Location: Atlanta GA 30052
JohnnyMullet wrote:
Same here. In the winter my mileage was high 40's and in the summer I could get 60+ if I pushed it to do so. I really think I am able to accomplish 60 MPH at 60 MPH this summer.

I can now let up on the clutch in 1st gear without hitting the gas and the car will not stall since the swap :twisted:

:cheers:

_________________
looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 9:01 am
Posts: 116
Location: california
I too just installed the 10deg timing gear and preformance cam shaft, engine is running too rich and it hunts for an idle setting, you probably dont have that problem since you went econ cam, any Ideas how to solve the rich and idle problem..........Scott


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 6:11 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:21 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Oss, the Netherlands
I got a performance cam with +10 gear too, and yes, it's rich, and idle is lumpy, but ever since I upped the idle a bit, it's stable at 900-1000 rpm. Also, it's at it richest at idle, but it never caused any problem, except at MOT, they don't like 8% CO :lol: Best thing of the cam is the snappy 1st and 2nd gear, man I love that. Keeps up with a GTi up to around 65 kph :D

By the way, what kind of gallons are you talking about here? US or Imperial?

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 6:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:06 pm
Posts: 1445
Location: Atlanta GA 30052
Peenutzz wrote:
By the way, what kind of gallons are you talking about here? US or Imperial?


see Location under avitar
Ohio and GA are in the USA.
:D

_________________
looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 7:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:21 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Oss, the Netherlands
:oops: should have seen that coming :oops:

Wish I had your mileage 8)

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 5:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:06 pm
Posts: 1445
Location: Atlanta GA 30052
:D

Peenutzz wrote:
Wish I had your mileage 8)
1995 Swift 1.0GA, 0-100 kph: 15.8 seconds.


15.8 might be why you do not:

it takes a very light foot on acceleration
and a few other things.

there are many threads on economy.

_________________
looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 6:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:21 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Oss, the Netherlands
What I actually mean is:
Wish I had your mileage combined with my heavy foot :P I can get near yours (best about 53 mpg), but I don't really want to, so I don't really try. Like the cam (350/218) too much 8)
Still get 40-ish mpg, which is pretty good. Actually surprised me a little, faster car but pretty much the same mileage as stock. Heavy foot included. Me was happy back then :)

As for the 15.8: That's with the new car, stock except for a K&N replacement AF. Didn't swap the cam yet. 15.8 will then be around 13.3. Man I miss her screaming :(

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2009 8:29 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2003 11:31 pm
Posts: 2457
Location: New York State
Nice writeup.

I hope everybody notices the difference between in-lbs and ft-lbs. 96 in-lbs is about 8 ft-lbs. :wink:

_________________
1994 Metro - MPH project (getting a DOHC G13B)
1994 Metro - MPG project (getting an XFi G10)
1992 Swift - Parts car (gone)
1991 Swift - Parts car (gone)
1990 Swift - Parts car
1997 Metro - Parts car (gone)
1993 Metro - Parts car
1989 Swift GTi - Parts car
1998 Metro - Parts car


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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 6:04 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:06 pm
Posts: 1445
Location: Atlanta GA 30052
Gasoline Fumes wrote:
I hope everybody notices the difference between in-lbs and ft-lbs. 96 in-lbs is about 8 ft-lbs. :wink:

good point. :!:
It is uncommon sense to not over torq a bolt. the torq LIMIT is related to bolt diameter and hardness. Wet bolts take 75% of dry torq.

Always use the Factory numbers. Here is a general guideline for dry bolts :
Attachment:
Picture 1.png

This is from an abundant site - not so easy to browse. click on Next and Back
http://www.tpub.com/content/bridges/TM- ... 4P_388.htm

Since I have seen bolts referred to by head size, I will stress that the above table is using bolt DIAMETER.
Attachment:
Picture 3.png


This is Torq: :D


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

_________________
looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


Top
 Profile  
 
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