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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 7:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 5:42 pm
Posts: 1
Location: Nevada, USA
1998 Chevrolet Metro 1.0 liter 3 banger. 110,000 miles

A.First make sure the work area of the engine scrupulously clean.
Pressure wash, car wash spray, or scrub with an old toilet brush and degreaser and hose repeatedly. Any dirt or grit on the front main bearing seal area negates any seal installation

B. follow the excellent directions already in the topics to remove timing belt.
C. Remove the flywheel access plate. This is a quarter moon piece of steel on the bottom of the bell housing held in with 2 bolts.
D. Note at the 4 o'clock position as viewed from the front of the engine there is an excellent place to place a medium sized screwdriver in the flywheel teeth and wedge it against the bellhousing. If need be use a piece of duct tape to hold the screwdriver in position.
E. Place a 17mm closed end wrench on the pulley bolt and arrange a floor jack, car jack, or hydraulic jack so that it pushes up in a counter-clockwise manner against the wrench. Between the weight of the vehicle and the lift of the jack, the bolt will give way. A breaker bar for me will not fit in the available space.
F.Remove the bolt and pulley. Follow other topic remedies for removing the old seal.
G.Surgically clean the crank seal bearing surface. I use brake cleaner spray or carb cleaner spray. Wipe and rewipe using cotton swabs and lint free paper towels. If any burrs or nicks are present I buff them down with 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper that has been cleaned and soaked in clean oil. Repeat cleaning process.
H. Take the new bearing seal, put it in a small can such as a clean tuna can with clean oil and preheat on a double boiler until the seal is hot, pliable, yet easy to handle. Slip over crank.
I. Press the new seal home. I used a 27mm deep dish socket as a seal driver and tapped with with a small hammer around the perimeter until it started to seat. Then I used a pry bar and a wooden flat between the frame rail and the socket to press the seal home until it was flush with the engine housing front.
J. Reassemble per the earier topic discussions.

So far, so good.
leelew


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PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 10:01 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:21 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Oss, the Netherlands
I tried #E today, and it will only work when the wrench is expensive enough :lol: Mine wasn't, first I was lifting the car, until the wrench started to bend sideways. I ended up loosening the front engine mount and lowereing the engine. Then I was able to place a ratchet and use a 7 foot heavy pipe on that to free the bolt.

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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