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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:25 am 

Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2005 1:10 am
Posts: 540
Location: Kent
Not sure if this is gonna help anyone or be of any use at all but i hope it will.

I remember reading a while ago how dificult it could be to get the sump off of the bottom of the engine block. I did this myself a few days ago and thought i would share a prety easy way to get it off.

First, the obvious things have to come off. Those beeing the manifold and the brace that goes from block to transmition. We have also drained the oil by now, right :wink:

Then i removed the metal plate type thing that sits verticly next to the radiator. 3 or 4 bolts i think. This dosent have to be removed but it does make the job alot easier for both visability and access. (sorry, just remembered my front bumper is off! Not sure if said metal plate is removable with bumper in place? :huh: ) But like i said, its removal is not a must.

Then get under the car and remove all 16(i think) bolts(10mm?) and 2 nuts from the sump.

Then get some fishing line or something similar and pull it between sump and block working it back and forth trying to break up as much sealant as possable.

Then have a look at the front left corner of the block. Notice how it is squared and dosent follow the curve of the sump. Use that edge to pry againt to seperate the sump from the block. Put the flat part of a chisel againts bottom of the block. Gently push or lightly tap it with a hammer so its between block and sump. Then pull the chisel up and you should notice tha sump start to seperate. There should be a lovely sucky sound of the sealent breaking! :lol:

The pic shows the corner i mean and the tool i used. Remember to be carefull not to damage either mateing surface. As for putting it back on. Well, i aint got that far yet! :D

Like i say, not sure if it will but i hope this helps somone. :D

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 3:09 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2008 3:44 am
Posts: 436
Location: castlerock Wa,
Also don't forget to tap all of the bolt holes on the oil pan with a hammer. when they are tightened some time people go a little over-bored and mushroom the oil pan where the bolts go. that is the number one reason the oil pans leak.

If you ain't First your last - Ricky Bobby

1990 swift GL Twincam swap
Hyundai trans swap- in progress

PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 12:35 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2007 9:43 pm
Posts: 494
Location: Everett Wa
Very good post ............... I like the point about the tapping the oil pan holes .. :D :D :D :D :D


1985 Chevy Sprint Mk1 G10 5 Speed Sky Blue

PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:16 am 

Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 7:47 pm
Posts: 1292
Location: Trinidad, W.I.
Excellent post...I have to do this myself, but I think I will be pulling the entire block off the car as I want to take a look at my rod & main bearings.

~the other Ralph~
Certified Suzuki Owner:
MKIII Swift GTi - The Green Destiny!
2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!

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