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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2010 4:11 pm
Posts: 6
Location: Paso Robles, CA
This is my second post on this topic with no answers as of yet. I recently bought this car with the temp sender switch broken and before I fixed it the thermostat failed and I overheated it badly and blew the head gasket. The car ran perfect before the overheat.

After replacing the Tstat and broken hose the car would not idle down. I have read that the thermostatic valve in the Throttle body sticks open, so I took off the throttle body and plugged the small hole in the manifold. This idled the car down nicely, but it ran very rich at idle and blew black smoke. It ran great at higher speeds. The air inlet idle valve also would no longer adjust.

I then removed the throttle body and plugged the bottom of the valve at the rear of the throttle body with 5 minute epoxy. NOW IT WILL NOT IDLE BELOW 3000 RPM! I am now off to remove the throttle body again and take take it apart. PLEASE HELP! :oops:

SORRY I REALIZE I HAVE POSTED THIS IN THE WRONG PLACE AND DON'T KNOW HOW TO MOVE IT.


Last edited by drewmann on Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 3:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
drewmann wrote:
This is my second post on this topic with no answers as of yet. I recently bought this car with the temp sender switch broken and before I fixed it the thermostat failed and I overheated it badly and blew the head gasket. The car ran perfect before the overheat.

After replacing the Tstat and broken hose the car would not idle down. I have read that the thermostatic valve in the Throttle body sticks open, so I took off the throttle body and plugged the small hole in the manifold. This idled the car down nicely, but it ran very rich at idle and blew black smoke. It ran great at higher speeds. The air inlet idle valve also would no longer adjust.

I then removed the throttle body and plugged the bottom of the valve at the rear of the throttle body with 5 minute epoxy. NOW IT WILL NOT IDLE BELOW 3000 RPM! I am now off to remove the throttle body again and take take it apart. PLEASE HELP! :oops:

So, let's get a few things straight.
First, this is your second post on this topic but
viewtopic.php?p=377134#p377134
you did get a reply.
(You were asked to change the O-rings in the injector.)

Heat is the biggest enemy of any engine.
Once you overheat an engine, the rings lose their temper.
So, you need to change them.

Next time you ask for help in the FAQ section, make sure you include
-year
-make
-model
-engine
-transmission
and what you think caused the problem.
If you want to save yourself some time, you can post in the section which is particular to your vehicle.
For example, if you are working on a '91 Metro 4 door automatic :shock: :shock: :shock: you can post here:
viewforum.php?f=5
and specialists in those cars will be more likely to help.
Teamswift is an internet community with people from ALL OVER THE WORLD, so try and keep that in mind.
BTW, did you follow the advice of drbobw and change the O-rings?
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50458
This is an excellent site for help on your car.
Unfortunately the best help isn't free - you will have to do some of the work.
If you didn't change the O-rings and didn't post your results, don't expect the next guy to be more 'friendly'.
Frustration has no place in automobile repair. If you cannot find the problem you aren't looking in the right place.
Automobiles have no emotions, they are an inanimate object. It does you NO GOOD to get frustrated.
Learn to control your emotions and you'll be a better mechanic.

Your next step?
Compression test, and post your results (same advice you would get whether you were in Argentina, etc.)

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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