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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 9:00 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:06 pm
Posts: 1445
Location: Atlanta GA 30052
This may apply to all our cars but I have had to fix the trip meter & tach in my 1994 GT.

The tach from a flat top cluster will not work in a curved top cluster.
But I did put the tach from a curved top METRO cluster into the curved top GT cluster.
If the # of cylinders is different, you will have to change resistors as covered elsewhere at length.

The trip meter is extremely integrated with the odometer and speedometer so I did not separate.
I pulled a speedo from a curved top METRO cluster but it requires a lot of of modifications to the housing and circuitry.
I was able to see where 3 parts had worn / broken and fixed with JB Weld which is an excellent 2-part epoxy steel available at autoparts retailers. My garage was 55F so I let it set overnight and then used a heat gun (hair dryer will work) to get it hard. We don't want to deform the plastics! I set it on my pant leg so I can tell how hot. Back off if it hurts. 5 minutes are not enough. 10 min works.

The tolerances are tight; around 1/2 mm, so use a nail or pin to apply the epoxy.
I removed the plunger shaft and arm while "welding".
To repair the reset function, I had to wedge 2 parts tightly in place and then "weld". The entire horizontal shaft at the bottom had to be "welded".
There was considerable wear on the blk arm and wht lever. I used a file and sandpapers (to #2000) on the blk piece. I added 2mm of JB to the wht lever.

Here are pics

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looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg

PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 9:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
If you have a weak trip odometer on a car (I do) this is a great thread.

I had the wrong idea when I first read this thread but now have been corrected.
:shock: :shock: :shock:
He used the JB Weld in two areas.
One I had correct.
It is to the right of the row of zeros in this picture:

The second area that he glued I guessed incorrectly.
It is not the area to the left of the 9999.
(That is a metal part.)
He glued the black part below the row of ones (1111) in the above picture.
You have to look carefully to see the JB Weld.

Again, correct me if I am wrong and here is an additional picture to help explain:

DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

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