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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 5:55 pm 
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Location: Roscommon, MI
I can live without wipers on a daily driver, but heat is a must. I took the heat out of my Eclipse, and then I had to drive it up to Michigan in November. Bad idea.

Another thing that I've found I don't like is the road noise created by removing all the carpet and sound deadening. Aside from that, I'm also more interested in listening to the radio while I drive rather than the handling difference from stripping everything out.

Honestly, I love the idea of weight reduction and I'm not against removing everything unnecessary. But these days, I want a little more comfort than performance. Carpet, body panels, heat, radio. If the car isn't fast enough... well then I guess it's time for a turbo. :)

Of course, the bonus with the turbo is that it helps quiet down the exhaust!


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 Post subject: lightness
PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 3:51 pm 
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Location: brazil, indiana 47834
well...9 pages of reading and came up with this one.
1 the hood, my 93 is rusting anyway so why not make one. take small tubing 1/2 maybe 3/4 and start from the hinges and run the the edges. then when it starts to turn put it in a pipe bender and make the turn. do this with seperate pipes and weld in the center where the hood latch would be. then you can stretch a small thin sheet of metal pref would be aluminum and rivet it to the bars. then use hood pins instead of a latch and pins instead of hinges if you like that too.
2 as for the steering wheel i took off the old one and hit it with a sawsall to get just the hub out of it, placed on a cheapy 3 spoke and put four self tap screws in it, then bolted it back on. it was a bit of a diff.
3 then i have been tossing this idea around as well. i also read about how some are adding to the back end to reduce the drag created behind as you drive. this will solve both in some cases. i havent measured it but if you took your time you might be able to get the rear hatch off a geo storm and cut into the top just behind the door pillars (2 dr htch) where the rear windows mount. and fab from there to meet where the old hatch did, it may save some weight if done right and reduce the drag. but then again it would have some storm parts attached to it, but it would be from the geo family. kind of like a camaro iroc. or just cut a really big section out and fab in a plexiglass moon roof.
4 aluminum oil pan, radiator, engine mounts,
5 got one- shave .040 off the head not only do you save weight but up the compression which will help.
5 i think lander had doors and hatch made from fiberglass, the one that does the uphill racing.
6 the shifter linkage could use some aluminum or even a fiberglass pole, i think aluminum cause you can bend it and it can take rocks. and handle too.
7 new a-arms, i seen the rear wheel drive setup being done with bmw axle but he made new frone a arms.
ill try to think of more as it comes along. just for 10 min i dont think was too bad. 8)

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trying to go turbo but the wife thinks it will cost too much for my 93 metro so now i have to "wheel & deal" my way there, any help would be great.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 3:40 pm
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Location: Enhaut PA (usa)
does anyone make carbonfiber hood or hatch for the metro or swift? I know they make them for the festiva

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2006 10:47 pm
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Location: burlington,ontario
stock plastic headlights, with brackets= 1lb 4 oz
glass head lights = 4lb

didnt think there would be that much of a difference between them


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:37 pm 
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Location: St.Thomas
whats the weight of a JDM Mk2 sedan Gl? 'Base model wid no ac, etc'

Tryin to find out if the base model 4door SEDAN is lighter than the 2dr gti's of the same era.

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 2:41 am
Posts: 173
Location: Canada
Fuel pump only needs 1 juice wire (pink) and the other 2 are just for the fuel gauge. So, don't need those 2 wires, if you know what you can get off a tank.

My car weighed in at 1980 lbs last year, could be a wee bit lighter this year.

If I had a wishlist, it'd include lightweight headers, and and underdrive pully. I don't know if I'll go with an aluminum flywheel. Never know.

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"Apollo 13", 436,600km | 89 Swift GTi -dead-
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 12:03 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:57 am
Posts: 280
Location: Edmonton
Gonna strip the fly for autocross!

No front or rear bumpers, no hood, no rear hatch, No glass except front windshield. I will have it all removeable and replaceable so I can put it back to 'street' or strip it down at the autox.

I'll post pics of it with no rear bumper. It's only 4 bolts!


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 2:56 am 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 2:26 pm
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Location: Switzerland - Zürich
long time ago...

here i have found something special i think :lol:

a vauxhall corso CSL style!

Image

Image

how much waight do you save with this mode???

i men the original roof is 2mm thick... and the airodynamic is going worse than bevore...

but when you have a sunroof hohle in the roof, why dont make it biger and get some carbon :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 7:21 am 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Just an FYI, I've been looking into one of these for my car

Image

http://www.turntechbattery.com/TurnTech ... lcome.html

They're not cheap, but it's about a 30lb weight loss.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 7:54 am 
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looks nice and smal.

but has it enough power for the road car?

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 8:59 am 
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He recommended the 7.5 AH, which would be fine.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 9:27 am 
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well not for me i need next summer more than that for free programable ecu.

you need 4 pieces from them for enough power ant thats the the waight of ah normal gelatine batterie :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 9:31 am 
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You would need 1, 7.5 AH battery, which would be about 1 kg.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 9:59 am 
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try it out and report your dayli drive experiance here pleace!

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 10:49 am 
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Location: Regina, SK
Something to note, Lithium batteries hate the cold, so I'm not so sure how these will hold up to -30c.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 11:39 am 
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Who cares? It's never -30 in SW Ontario :lol:

They have excellent reviews by the bike guys.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 2:03 pm 
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suprf1y wrote:
Who cares? It's never -30 in SW Ontario :lol:

They have excellent reviews by the bike guys.


Find out their operating temp range, is all I'm saying. Many lithium batteries shed most of their charge/capacity by the time water freezes... =)

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 3:27 pm 
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My car is a summer only car, but I'm thinking if you're hardcore enough about lightweight to spend $200 to lose 30 lbs, you'll find a way to deal with the cold :lol:

turntech wrote:
How is the low/high temperature performance?
The batteries don’t provide as much power initially as a lead acid battery at low temperatures (40F or 3-4C). HOWEVER, the battery will self heat during the pulse, as the battery warms it provides more amps. The battery will get stronger rather than weaker as more starting attempts are made. Once the battery has warmed it will provide full power regardless of the outside temperature. The colder it is the more pulses that will be needed, for instance at 40F one pulse may be needed (or a 5-8 second starting pulse) at 0F you will need 4-5 pulses to warm the battery.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 4:47 pm 
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Location: Christchurch NZ, quake capital
Thats excellent, I can start my work car off a 7.5ah alarm battery (just) and that has stuff all cranking amps compared to the turntech battery, with it so small and light you can mount it close to the firewall in the engine bay, no need to relocate it back inside the cabin with the associated heavy copper cable.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 7:44 pm 
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That's what I was thinking.
You could mount it on the firewall, just above the starter, to keep the cable as short as possible.

I wanted to get the 5 AH, and swap it back and forth between the bike and the car, but he said the 5 would be borderline to start the car.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 1:51 am 
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Location: Christchurch NZ, quake capital
I currently use an 18ah alarm battery in my swift and it has 11.5-compression and an aftermarket ecu on quads with no cold start facilities, even though it's a el cheapo chinese made battery it has always started, I would be inclined to get the 5ah model as it has 240cca and add a piggy back connector to the terminals so you can plug in a back up battery if it ever goes flat, if you can use it in your bike then thats even better.


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