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 Post subject: starter relay FAQ page
PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2003 12:49 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2001 11:55 am
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Same page, just added some notes and info to it. It's not set up totally 'newbie' friendly, but if you have some basic mechanical/electrical understanding it should be more than enough to do it yourself. Any qs, just ask. <br><br><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href="http://www.angelfire.com/ky3/teamswift/starter.html">www.angelfire.com/ky3/tea...arter.html</a><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END--><br><br>My car has still yet to 'click' and I don't forsee it happening any time soon. <p><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="font-size:xx-small;"><!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>Kyle Jones<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.angelfire.com/de/ksj/myswift.html"><br>Junk-Yard Turbo set-up, formerly NOS-fed, constantly evolving 1989 Suzuki Swift</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--><br><br></p><i></i>


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2003 1:08 am 
When my VW was having that problem I ran a wire from the hot side of the ignition to a momentary switch and used that switch to start the car. But now thinking about it I would use a relay on that switch with low draw current to trip the main starter solenoid. <p>Proud owner 2000 Metro poor mans special edition, 1984 Suzuki SJ410 poor mans rockcrawler (needs turbo 1L), 1992 Ford Aerostar Cargo van(The big white piggy, needs more dents and scars), 1964 POS Baja VW (needs to be put back together).</p><i></i>


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 Post subject: Re: Kyle
PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2003 10:21 pm 
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So, does the solonoid get bypassed if going the relay route? Assuming YES, unless otherwise. <p></p><i></i>


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 Post subject: Re: Kyle
PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2003 11:37 pm 
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The wire that went to the solenoid now triggers the relay. The relay is fed from a direct feed from the battery (if you do it properly), and this feed now goes to your new all-powerful power source feeds the stock starter solenoid. <br><br>Problem is that the stock solenoid doesn't want to fire on the 9.5volts it was getting when you turn the key over. The relay however can switch over to the new feed on that low voltage. <br><br>The new feed gives your solenoid hopefully 12volts.<br><br>My car still has not 'clicked' and don't forsee it doing so. <br><br> <p><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="font-size:xx-small;"><!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>Kyle Jones<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.angelfire.com/de/ksj/myswift.html"><br>Junk-Yard Turbo set-up, formerly NOS-fed, constantly evolving 1989 Suzuki Swift</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--><br><br></p><i></i>


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 Post subject: Tests are back!
PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 8:26 am 
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On a Swift having a fairly consistant clicky starter problem. We changed nothing but the switch harness. Fixed it 100%. No more problem after a while.<br>Find the Metro harness from a low mile car. This will fix the main problem. Then if you put the relay in. This will make sure that it does not happen again. <p></p><i></i>


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 Post subject: Re: Tests are back!
PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 10:20 am 
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thanks a bunch. <p></p><i></i>


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 9:13 pm 
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I already repair a Hyundai stellar who wuz having the same trouble.. and the guy dont want to spend money .. i put some<br>plumb or lead on the copper part where the black where and the little hole.. and it did work superbly ...<br><br><br>See ya!<br> <p>Glass-Shadow <br>Suzuki Swift GS 94 DOHC Power Steering<br><br>www.geocities.com/robert_audette2001/1.html<br></p><i></i>


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2004 5:32 pm 
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Moved this to the FAQ section as there is lot's of good info in here. Cleaned out a few of Jomo's posts too...did you know you can run 4AWG from the ignition the the battery?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2004 7:47 pm 
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Location: Cobble Hill, B.C.
My newer Swift GT, 135k km, had the clicking-but-no-cranking symptom about once every 5 starts. This car has been garrage kept and pampered all of its life. I wired in the relay fix when the car was off the road during the winter and have never had the problem since (after a few weeks on the road now). Strangely enough the older Swift GTi closing in on 400,000km and outside most of its life never had this problem.

The previous owner of the newer Swift had the solenoid replaced twice in error :-P Thanks Kyle :D


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 Post subject: Re: Kyle
PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2004 3:08 pm 
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whattheeee wrote:
The wire that went to the solenoid now triggers the relay. The relay is fed from a direct feed from the battery (if you do it properly), and this feed now goes to your new all-powerful power source feeds the stock starter solenoid. <br><br>Problem is that the stock solenoid doesn't want to fire on the 9.5volts it was getting when you turn the key over. The relay however can switch over to the new feed on that low voltage. <br><br>The new feed gives your solenoid hopefully 12volts.<br><br>My car still has not 'clicked' and don't forsee it doing so. <br><br> <p><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="font-size:xx-small;"><!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>Kyle Jones<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.angelfire.com/de/ksj/myswift.html"><br>Junk-Yard Turbo set-up, formerly NOS-fed, constantly evolving 1989 Suzuki Swift</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--><br><br></p><i></i>


Do you have a wire diagram, what is connect to what with this relay?

Samuel

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2004 3:18 pm 
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Here is my reading comprehension: (sorry)

STARTER MOTOR - to - BATTERY POS (don't touch)...Correct assumption?
---------------------------------------------------------------------
STARTER MOTOR (B/W wire) - to - RELAY 87 (bottom slide connector)

RELAY 87A - to - IGNITION

BATTERY Positive - to - RELAY 30

RELAY 85 - to - (ADD GROUND WIRE) to firewall

Confusement with RELAY 86? It mentions goes to the starter.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Is this correct?

Samuel

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 7:57 am 
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Here's a wiring diagram that illustrates how things are supposed to be properly wired:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/lihtan/detail?.dir=6952&.dnm=9999.jpg
You can also use the diagram as a basis for putting relays on your headlights.
I'll post a proper picture once the server move gets finished.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 9:54 am 
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Ok. Let me get this right:

RELAY 30 - to - BATTERY POSTIVE

(Remove old battery to starter voltage wire)

RELAY 87A - to - STARTER POSTIVE TERMINAL


RELAY 87 - to - STARTER SOLINOID slot

(When voltage is applied, it jumps from 87A to 87. 87A post is left empty.)

RELAY 85 - to - GROUND TO CHASSIS

RELAY 86 - to - CAR IGNITION SOURCE (Original connection)


This means I remove the old POSITIVE WIRE from the battery to the STARTER since I have rerouted the voltage to the relay?

Samuel

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2004 2:40 pm 
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Image

This is what I was referring too.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 5:36 am 
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Here's my starter relay wiring diagram:
Image
The relay terminals are not labeled, because this is intended to be a universal wiring diagram. Regardless of whether you're using Bosch/Hella automotive relays, industrial contactors, solid state relays, or some random OEM relay from the wreckers, the wiring is all the same. Relays almost always have a wiring diagram on the casing, showing where the terminals go. Basic understanding of common circuit diagram symbols is a good idea for anyone that wants to understand automotive wiring.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2005 4:10 am 
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I noticed no-one in this thread mentioned poor grounding.

I had the click-no start problem today on my Swift GT in storage. It turned out not to be the starter solenoid switch but corrosion (verre de gris?) buildup where the battery ground cable bolts onto to the transmission case under the battery tray. After cleaning the bolt, cable and transmission threads, I added an additional extension ground wire running to a starter bolt to reduce the likelihood of this happening again.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 2:51 am 
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Test your voltage during cranking at the battery. When my truck had a bad engine ground, I was dropping to like 8 volts on crank. With a new engine ground, everything stays above like 11 volts.

If you are just checking voltage at the solonoid, you could be seeing the voltage drop from the whole system, not just that wire


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 5:15 pm 
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Been chasing this one for a while. Glad I finally checked the FAQ in this section... :oops:


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 3:16 pm 
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I've recently noticed that when i crank 8valve engine, it cranks normally then slows for half a second or so then goes back normally...

One day my wifey tried starting and when she switched the ignition... as usual... the dash light came on and the external fuel pump made it's noisness ... but when she tried to crank... nothing... dash lights still were there...

Battery is good and fluid level is @ max. I had a reading of 14.4v on the volt meter the previous day...

I replaced the starter and even tho it now cranks... it still slows down (not everytime) ...

what could cause this... ??

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:33 pm 
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Hey guys, Lithan pointed me here. Looks like I am having this issue. So I think I understand how to wire up this relay, but what relay do I need? A SPST or DPST or a SPDT? Sorry I've never messed with relays before!

Secondly, I hear the problem described as a click, click, click noise. Mine is a single click. Does that still fit this issue? (I should add it is the problem that it works fine and starts fine most of the time, but every 5 starts of so I just get a single 'click' then nothing.

Also in trying to make this as idiot proof as possible (trust me I need things spelled out!) I've added to whattheeee's relay diagram. Does this look right? Thanks guys!

Last question, do we need a fuse on the 10 gauge wire that goes from the battery + to the relay?

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