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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 10:46 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 4:03 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Newfoundland
As the topic suggests I am having the no low beam issue.

My car is a 98 swift with the 16v 1.3. It has 134,000 kilometers.

The problem began, or was noticed after a drive with the wife and kids where we followed a map which put us on a course to a road I would not have wanted to take my Suburban 4x4ing. The poor car was in 1st gear for most of the dirve on this 10 km stretch or rocks and shaken alot. I was impressed that it climbed the hils and over the rocks I pointed it at. I just used common off roading sense which to my suprise worked well in the little car. they do have quite the clearance for a small car don't they?

So now after returning from a drive I note that in the reflection of a vehicle infront of me I have one DRL out, and when I switch to full headligths I have no low beam, but do have high beams when activated. I figure I have shaken the filaments to pieces from the rough road and then proceed to purchase 2 new bulbs and install them. The low beams did not work and after much searching I retired for that day.

The next day the low beams did function and I was happy thinking I must have been operating the switchs incorrectly. Well 1 week goes by and I am out for a drive and my low beams begin to flash on and off then but come back. Very starnge. I end up picking up some pizza hut and when I return to the vehicle the low beams are no longer for this world. I end up driving back home with the DRL's(they do give off enough light).

I then do a search and some have mentioned corroded wires in the fender? While others have mentioned somewhere near the fuse box under the dash. I have poked around under the dash and noted some relys are there, they seem fine nothing burnt, and no fuses are blown. Can someone point me to where this light issues is normally resolved?

I am of the mind to wire up my own 3 way switch and just run +12V to each prong on the bulb with a ground and use my DRL, low beam, and highs thru that and an inline 15 amp fuse. But surly there is a better way to fix this problem.

Any help would be accepted. Thank You.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 11:00 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1408
Location: Alberta, Canada
I see two different problems come up on those light circuits. One is no headlights at all or intermittent no lights. This doesn't seem to be your issue, but i would recomend checking this anyways: there is a plug that comes down from the steering column light switch and goes into the fuse box. The main headlight switch feed wire gets hot and corrodes there. It usually quite apparent which wire it is, because they all get hot and it shows, even if the lights are still working properly.
Now, onto your problem. I think that you are very likely seeing a poor connection in the combination turn/headlight switch. Its fairly easy to gain access to it after removing the steering wheel. Install new, used, or take it apart and clean all the contacts and it will work perfectly again. Its tedious to take apart, but i've never seen one 'broken' only a bit of carbon on one or two of the contacts. Usually by jiggling the lever enough you can pretty much diagnose the switch by getting your lights to flicker one more time.
One other thing to note is that the switches changed from year to year. I do know that 95 and 97 are different. Just something to be aware of if shopping for a used one.
Good luck with your repair, or hooking up a new switch instaed!

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 11:15 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 4:03 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Newfoundland
thanks for the reply. It seams heat was an issue for these little cars headlights from the more reading I have been doing. I will go out to the car and wiggle jiggle the turn signal stalk to see if anything happens. I will also check the fuse box under the dash near the pedals. Down there which connector am I looking at or should be focusing on? One that is above the fuse panel?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 11:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:46 pm
Posts: 1099
Location: Abbotsford, BC
yes, the 98+ model the DRL box got removed from under the left front fender to under the dashboard beside the steering column. way the hell embedded back there and you have to remove the dash-b to get at it.

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1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 11:29 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 4:03 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Newfoundland
ok just finished trying to wiggle the stack to get a flicker and nothing. I can hear the relay clicking under the hood when the switch is turned in each position.

Now the fuse box under the dash has a clear multi wire connector runing beside the box and clipping onto it with no actual wires running to the box. then there is a clip with wires on the top of the box i can't see but can feel. there is alos a black connector I can see on the fuse box and it has 4 huge wires, much larger guage then the rest. Which connector is the one with the heating issue?

Now 1995 firelfy mentioned the DRL box is buried behind the dash. Is that a source of this type of problem as my DRL's function properly. they turn off with the parking brake pulled and turn off with the headligth in the full on position but the low beams do not come on. It's very tight trying to get under there as I'm 270 lbs. It's easier to work on my suburban in that regard

Edit Went back under car again and found a black conector, 2 pins wide by about 14 pins long on the center top of the connector. unpluged it and then there were no lights. replugged it and back to the same problem as before. When I did have it unpluged i did not see anywhere that was burnt. There are more connectors under there, was I in the right area?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 12:56 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1408
Location: Alberta, Canada
I hope i haven't lead you astray at all, I made a mistake assuming the 98 would be the same as a 95-97. Oops. I will take a peak at a 98 tomorrow and see if i can see the connector to check. Sounds like you may have gotten them all checked already. Perhaps they beefed up the connector for the 98+ models. Need a wiring diagram to check much more. Is there one on here you can use for reference?

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 1:37 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 4:03 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Newfoundland
I tried to look at the wiring pdf files but they would not work on my "at work" computer. Also the DRL controller may be high up so I haven't checked the connections there yet. Need to pull the bottom of the dash panel to get more room I think

Thanks for the help so far.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:46 pm
Posts: 1099
Location: Abbotsford, BC
i can get you a big image of the electrical diagram for the DRL but from a 2000 metro service manual. although the wires should be the same...

_________________
1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 4:03 pm
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Location: Newfoundland
That would be great. I'm still trying to find the possible burnt connector but no luck so far.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 16, 2008 9:24 pm
Posts: 1
Location: canada
do you have daytime running lights? I had this problem and just fixed as of now, it turned out to be my daytime running light module


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 7:57 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, BC
There's a problem with the grounds in your headlight circuit. Our cars used a permanently connected positive, and a switched ground. The DRL circuit has it's own dedicated ground which is why it can operate independently from the low beams. The high beams also have a dedicated ground to themselves. The ground wires are carried all the way up to the combo switch, so your switchgear should be checked the same as your fuseboxes, harness terminals and main grounding points.

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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 3:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 3:25 pm
Posts: 4
Location: North Carolina
I also have a '98 Metro with the exact same problem. Only mine is a 1.0/5spd.

I checked on a DRL module at the dealership and I think I'll go another route. I did however get a schematic printed of the DRL module. Maybe I can bypass the DRL's and allow the lowbeam to still operate with the switch.

Lihtan, you said the High beams have a ground to themselves and the DRL as well. Is there a way to disable the DRL and substitute its ground for the lowbeam? Or maybe another way instead of using the trusty soldering iron on the DRL module?

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'88 Sprint, G10/5spd
'92 Metro, G10/5spd
'98 Metro, G10/5spd
'98 Chevy K2500, 6.5TD/5spd
'95 Subaru Legacy AWD, 2.2/5spd
'87 IROC-Z Camaro, 5.0/auto
'87 Z-28 Camaro, 5.7 LT1/6spd < in progress


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 11:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 6:22 pm
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Location: Vancouver, BC
Yes there should be a way to modify your wiring to restore normal headlight operation, and disable the DRLs if desired. I have throughly investigated how to do this with MK2/3 vehicles, and there is a thread in the electrical section about this. The wiring is different in the MK4/5 vehicles, so for those that want to embark on this mod, be prepared for a solitary journey.

_________________
jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 7:19 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2015 10:20 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Pa
There is a wire harness under the steering column. Took me 30 seconds to locate it. It will have a burnt connector. Just bypass the harness for that wire. Very easy fix


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 7:24 am 
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Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2015 10:20 pm
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Location: Pa
Mine is a 99 3 banger.


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