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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 5:43 am 
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Location: WA
I just got done replacing my clutch and flywheel and got everything back together and filled the transmission up with new synchromesh. Then I began filling the coolant up and noticed a small puddle forming under the engine. I located the source of the leak and it's the coolant hard pipe that you atach the upper radiator hose to. It's leaking right where it goes into the back of the water pump.

I believe the reason it's leaking is because the hard pipe has a bracket that bolts to the end of the transmission and I had to bend it to get enough clearance to drop the tranny out. The bracket is still all bent up but it's bolted in place. The pipe I noticed had come out of the water pump a little but I manage to get it back in all the way but it's still leaking. I haven't even turned the engine on and it's already leaking. The pipe can't go in any further.

How do I fix this? I think I need a new hard pipe with a bracket that isn't bent. Is there a rubber seal inside the pump that the pipe mates up against?



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 6:52 am 
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There is an O-ring at the end of the pipe. The same exact thing happened to me when I did my trans replacement............................

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Along with that end bracket bolt, I had to remove a 10MM bolt located on the block just above the starter and carefully wiggle the pipe free. I found an O-ring the same size from a simple shop O-ring kit, added some vaseline to it and when the hose popped on, it felt good. It felt real good.

Good luck.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 7:59 am 
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It was a pain in the ass wasn't it? The writeup somebody did on here for removing the tranny said to remove that pipe first and I kept trying to find out how it was held in place but I couldn't see back there so I left it in.

Did that 10mm bolt you mentioned actually bolt the pipe in place? Is there a factory service manual on this forum that will cover a 98 metro? What about a factory parts catalog?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:40 am 
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Location: WA
Found the factory service manual final edition on ebay for $50 plus shipping. Worth it if it's better than the bullshit haynes and chilton put together. I have both books and they're both pretty bad and each one gives different torque specs. Stupid crap like torque spec will be "45-70". I've seriously seen that before. Shouldn't a torque spec be one specific number, not some stupid range? Then you check the other book and it's different.

The 1991 subaru legacy factory service manual was more expensive but has 6 books plus a right hand drive one for $105 shipped with insurance.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:42 am 
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Location: Chester County PA
Hey Dude....been there, done that too. ;-)
'cept I actually btoke my pipe.......
doublecheck the oring as Johnny suggested.
It's a bear trying to get at it. You need to remove the intake again. :-(



Good luck




Jimmy


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:11 am 
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Remove the intake? Again? I never removed the intake in the first place. That how to never mentioned removing the intake yet it said to remove the pipe.

Unless you're just talking about the black plastic air filter housing. But I doubt that...


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:31 pm 
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Bozo the crying clown

Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:19 am
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Location: Chester County PA
I could be wrong but.........I remember there was a screw clamp thingy that held the pipe in place...Couldn't see it unless you removed the intake.......Besides...how else are you gonna check the o-ring if you don't take the whole thing apart????


To make the job "fairly easy".......get a craftsman ratcheting box wrench set...or at least the 12mm one for the intake nuts...
that one in the middle is a b1tch......




Jimmy


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:38 pm 
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Location: WA
I've searched 100 times on this forum and google and nobody has the parts catalog for the dealerships. So I've been trying to find the parts on one of the chevy oem distributers and I found the pipe I need. Doesn't give a part number though which pisses me off. It appears to have a tab near the water pump probably right under the intake as you said that a bolt would hold it in place. Which means the bolt holding mine has to be gone because I moved that pipe half an inch and I doubt you'd be able to do that with the bolt in place.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:40 pm 
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The pipe is 41.46 plus probably about $12.95 for shipping. Rip off. Problem is that illustration does not show an o-ring or seal of any sort.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:02 pm 
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I figured out how to make that stupid GM online distributor show you the part numbers. It's kind of a pain in the ass but at least it works. All you have to do is add the parts to the cart and then go to checkout and once you do that it takes you to the checkout and shows your part and also shows the part number to the left. I put that in and it came right up with my part.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:14 pm 
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I noticed on the parts diagram that the hard pipe is different than earlier models. Earlier model Suzukis had a shorter pipe that was straight, and used a rubber hose to connect to another pipe segment that was attached to the tranny. When doing a tranny replacement, you could just disconnect the rubber hoses, and leave all the hard pipes alone.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:19 pm 
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Yeah the 94 and earlier I think have a shorter pipe. It doesn't have the curved part on it. Also, the pipe in that picture is facing the wrong direction. It's supposed to run the same way as the engine. Parallel to the radiator but in that picture it's perpendicular to the radiator.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:26 pm 
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I've had this one for sale for ages, but it has the curve in it. Basically, it's mint.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:37 pm 
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Bozo the crying clown

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I guess my memory did serve me correctly. ;-) There's the hole to bolt the pipe to the manifold. :-)

Buy the pipe.....The old one is probably boogered up if you didn't remove the screw.


Jimmy


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 10:17 am 
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Already bought the pipe just waiting for it to be shipped. That pipe is similar but different than mine. My pipe has a 90 degree bend and there isn't a nipple coming out by the curve in the pipe.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 2:13 pm 
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Phil N Ed wrote:
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I've had this one for sale for ages, but it has the curve in it. Basically, it's mint.

how much and does it have a new o-ring on it? im in a similar boat, except I was just gonna silicon mine to the block :p

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 3:40 pm 
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swift13b wrote:
Phil N Ed wrote:
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I've had this one for sale for ages, but it has the curve in it. Basically, it's mint.

how much and does it have a new o-ring on it? im in a similar boat, except I was just gonna silicon mine to the block :p


Image

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 3:49 pm 
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I just pulled the tranny on my 94 metro and that same pipe started leaking at the pump. I didnt disturb it at all and it is very secure. Did the 94 series have an o-ring, I will replace it and perhaps high temp silly cone??


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 9:42 pm 
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What's with the shotgun? I have one that looks a lot like that.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 3:16 pm 
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Bozo the crying clown

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Uh....I'd think youd know if if you had one of those. That's a Franchi SPAS.





Jimmy


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 9:05 am 
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I wasn't saying I had one of those. I just said it looks similar to mine. I have a Mossberg 500a 20" with pistol grip. Holds 6 rounds in the magazine 1 in the chamber.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 1:02 pm 
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Actually It's a gun from a video game I play, half life 2.
http://half-life.wikia.com/wiki/Shotgun_(HL2)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:00 pm 
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Yeah that gun looked familiar. I play that game as well. Well I used to. I still play CS source and I'll play the new HL2 episodes when they come out.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:22 pm 
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Same thing happened to me after replacing my trans. I got lucky and after a few 20-30 mile runs it stopped leaking :D

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 12:09 am 
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That o-ring just doesn't like to be moved at all. No need to be chasing down pipes and installing new ones. Just get a new oring and install it. The intake doesn't need to come off. There is one awkward 10mm head bolt holding the pipe in place under the intake. Pull it out, replace the oring and away you go.

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