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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 9:48 pm 
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Never Blown wrote:
ok i have 2 problems...and i really need some help...(1992 Geo Metro 1.0 3 cylinder)

Problem #1- after aquiring the car, decided to give it a tune up etc. etc. did all of that and it was fine ended up needing a timing belt...but along with that it needed a timing seal etc cause it was leaking, so after changing that and getting it all fixed up the fan belt started squeeking. So i took it back to the shop, they tightened it up some, and problem solved. Nope. 2 days later still squeeking but only at start up and it squeeks for about 20-30 seconds then stops.

Problem #2- i installed a sound system, nothin too dramatic but still its kinda loud, but at night, headlights on, and the heat on as well...the car starts to shake uncontrollably, and sometimes, the fan belts either start to slip or something because they start making that loud whining noise.


So i would like for that entire car shaking to be completely eliminated and the fan belt squeeking to stop...

i was thinking of maybe buying a bigger alternator or something but im not even sure if that would fix the problem

How can i get these problems solved?


Thanks in advance


Bump your idle speed up a bit. The tiny 1 liter shakes at normal idle speed with a heavier load on it. You have to really tighten the alternator belt. Put a prybar between the back of the block and the alternator to get some real leverage to get that belt tight. It is loose, that is why it squeals when you hit it with a heavy load or stab the throttle. Make sure you run new belts on it. They are dirt cheep.

Mike


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 9:53 pm 
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Location: PA
Belt dressing maybe? I had the same problem before with the squeaking but never got a chance to mess with it, because my engine died. Don't worry though the engine didn't die because of that, it was an oil burner.
Post a message if you have any luck getting it to stop, because i an interested in the solution also.


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 Post subject: idle shake
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 10:08 pm 
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Location: near Burbank, Calif
Try putting a voltmeter on your car
and notice what it shows during
the death rattle idle.

Your sound system could be pulling
it down.
s/b above 13 volts.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 10:09 pm 
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WE0H wrote:
Put a prybar between the back of the block and the alternator to get some real leverage to get that belt tight.
Mike


You had best be VERY careful if you do this. Putting a prybar in there will probably overtighten the belt and you risk damaging the alt. Try a new belt if it hasn't already been done. I had the same engine you do and it gave me some problems like what you are experienceing but it can be solved. How much power are we talking about with regards to your stereo?

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Last edited by m on Mon Oct 20, 2003 12:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 12:13 pm 
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Not sure on the idle speed but if you are pushing anything more than 300WRMS in these cars you are running the alts hard and eventualy they will fail. They are only around 50 amps in the Swifts and my be lower on the 1L. Like I said, try a new belt tensioned properly. That's what I did with mine and it worked fine with a 425W Class A sub amp! Also, hen you check the belt again make sure that the alt bracket is straight. Mine wasn't perfect and caused a lot of tensioning problems. You could see the powerdered rubber around it from the belt wearing so quickly.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 6:32 pm 
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You really should install a 4-rib belt setup. It would stop squeeking without having to tighten the belt like a maniac with a prybar. You will have to change the alt pulley, water pump pulley and crank pulley from a 1.3 (gt or not). Go to your local remove-yourself scrapyard so you can get all those parts for cheap. Crank pulley's holes will have to be redrilled because there is 4 bolts on the 1.0l instead of 5 on 4 cyl engines. Just take your stock pulley as a gig to help you drilling new holes.
You might as well install a 1.3 alternator while you're at it, they'll fit right on. I have a brand new, stock Gt alternator, in case anyone is interested (so much for a plug :lol: )

3-rib belts does not have enought wraping surface on the pulley to withstand more than 60 amps. Keep also in mind that overthightening will quickly wear out your waterpump.

Good luck!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 2:17 am 
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if it is like my 1.0L, it only had a 35 amp alt. maybe a good idea to check you water pump, if it is starting to leak, it can leak on the pulleys and make the belts slip. also i would HIGHLY recommend installing larger cable to from the alt to the fuse box, and the fuse box to the battery. made a big differnece on my car.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 2:18 am 
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oh, and for those whose got to see my new cable for the alternator, i have also fab'd up another to run to the battery as well!

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 10:23 pm 
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Run a piece of 4 gauge from the alternator to the battery and you should be fine. Also add a 4 gauge chunk from the neg. terminal to the body.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 6:56 pm 
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The cable is going to the alternator, not the starter. Positive on the battery to the pos on the alt. I just added mine to the wiring that was already there instead of replacing the cable that goes to the fuse box as well. It will work the same. You may be able to get a Bosch unit to fit your car. I've heard that they do an 85A alt. for the Swift. You will have to change the pulleys like what Jar said. I wouldn't worry about a bigger battery unless you listen to your music with the car off a lot. If your hell bent on getting one I've had good experience with Optima batteries. I use a yellow top but will probably change to a red top. If you do a lot of engine off listening you could do the yellow top. They both work excellent.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 7:02 pm 
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Why don't you just read my post?

Upgrading your alternator with a stock 3-rib belt will be totally useless. It will slip all the time. Leave your stock cables alone and start by doing something valuable first.

once the 4-rib conversion is done, you can install any 100 amp GM alternator with only a slightly modified alternator mount bracket.

Here's my setup to give you an idea:

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