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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:30 am
Posts: 17
Location: Iowa
No I got your last post and the manual was quite helpfull. I did the checks I could with a code reader and voltage reader and every thing checked out. I dont have a live date stream reader.. If so I'm sure the problem would be fixed by now as well.

Can you tell me if there is a second temp sensor on this engine and where its located?? I found the one on the thermostat..

Thanks,


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:37 am
Posts: 1059
Location: Vancouver, Best Cannabis
i think you should buy the real factory service manual so you can get your problem fixed because it's turning out to be a very advanced issue that is not going to be fixed over the internet.

_________________
Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 3:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:30 am
Posts: 17
Location: Iowa
I might have figured out what is wrong. I hooked a Ohm meter up to the IAC valve.. it registers as 58 while the meter is set on 2000k. I read on a website that it should be between 7-13 ohms. This site was not car specific. Is this a generic rating for all cars? I guess if so then this in my prob..??

Can anyone here help me with what this reading on suzuki should be. I looked through the manual silver bullet sent me but I didnt see it listed. Thanks,!


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 5:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Resistance of ISC = 30-33 Ohms according to Figure 6E 136 of downloadable manual.
You have section 6E?
Still waiting to hear why you haven't posted a single picture/video of your problem.
The longer you delay, the longer it will take to get this vehicle repaired.

...and it's the only one broken on the WHOLE site... :shock: :shock: :shock:

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 6:44 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:37 am
Posts: 1059
Location: Vancouver, Best Cannabis
i think you should try to source a complete throttle body (including sensors) from a wreckers to eliminate some variables.

_________________
Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:49 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:46 am
Posts: 1
Location: Oregon
Curious about this problem, my car is doing the same exact thing.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 11:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:30 am
Posts: 17
Location: Iowa
No unfortunatly it hasnt been fixed yet. I guess I'm just dealing with it. The second I put it in park I just shut it off. I kind of suspect its the IAC but I havent been able to find a used one at a junk yard. (must be a popular part)

New ones are about 250-300 bucks. The thing that kills me about it is when the motor is not up to temp it works fine. As soon as it hits operational temp... away it goes... up and down. FKN annoying. Any questions you want to bounce off me...? go for it. Ive tried everything, I can tear this thing apart and put it back together in my sleep. Hope I can help. If you figure it out let me know!!! Ive never been this stumped before!!!!


The other problem is the nearest suzuki dealer is 200 mi away from here. I also suspect a huge diagnostic bill. When people look at the car funny and ask why it doing that, I tell them its the intercooler cooling the engine inorder to obtain maxium fuel efficeny... some believe it! Good luck!!

Nick


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2008 2:22 pm
Posts: 61
Location: Western Mass
Interesting. My GTi has the fast up and down rev too, but it is opposite of you in that mine does it when the engine is cold, and when warm it goes away.

I adjusted the TPS per factory manual. I replaced the IAC (Did you pull off the bottom or your IAC and take a look? There is a flat spring with like 3 attaching points, and one or two are often broken.

The next step for me was going to be the lower temperature sensor/sender thingy. The one in the block, not the one on the t-stat housing.

This problem and the ticking hydrolic lifters are what I have left to do to my swifty. But I usually just start it up. And after it is warm, drive it with no issues.

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1989 Swift GTi in da garage!
1971 Datsun 521 Rat Truck


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 1:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:30 am
Posts: 17
Location: Iowa
Well, Problem fixed!!!! I finally ended up finding a used Throttle Body!!! I got it for about 50 bucks, it had the IAC and TPS on it. It only took 3 months for one to be available on ebay.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:39 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2015 7:54 am
Posts: 1
Location: CA. USA
I was sure hoping that you would figure out the real problem since my wifes 1998 metro is doing the exact same thing except it does not care what temperature it is running at. And well maybe a little other difference I haven't heard mentioned. On startup (hot or cold) idle rpm will be very high for about10 seconds, then it goes into the rapid up down cycling. Any time there is a load on the engine it runs normal. As soon as the engine is coasting (ie. not supplying power nor adding drag to the wheels) the rapid surging resumes. Doesn't matter if I am doing 10 mph or 60 mph. As soon as I put it in gear (any) it puts enough load on the engine to make the surging stop, but the high idle speed makes it hard to slow/stop the car. On flat ground it idles at about 35 mph in Drive.
Quote:
here, 13 pages of high-res photos from the factory service manual covering troubleshooting idle speeds, the IAC and TPS, and default values for engine controls read on the code scanner.
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=5FG0MNP9

The link to the 13 pages of high-res photos from the factory service manual does not work anymore (old post), and I think it may have been very usefull. Any chance of aquireing those pages? This car is driving us crazy.
We've tried most of the things suggested in previous posts and will try the rest while awaiting your quick-fix answer (in a perfect world). :|
1998 Chevy Metro 1.3L Automatic


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