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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 5:36 pm 
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Gosh, my belt is walking too. I tried redoing it but it keeps doing the same thing. More investigative work.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:07 pm 
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Once the belt goes while the engine is running Internal parts can be SEVERELY damaged or destroyed... you may have more problems than a belt slipping off

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 1:46 pm 
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I replaced my tensioner and it fixed it. I think if you crank down on it, it messes the tensioner up. Just my theory.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 12:30 pm 
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Hi Guys,
Well I'm back to work on my Swift.
I did the compression test again and this is what I got.

dry 220, 140, 225, 230
wet 280, 220, 250, 300

wet=2tsp of oil in the cyl. (if that's the correct way of doing it)

Took the water pump out re-installed with a new one and with no tension the belt stays right on the edge of the cams, If I put any tension what so ever, the belt start to walk out towards the fender, more the tension, the faster it does it.

Conclusion... NO IDEA WHAT'S GOING ON!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 1:04 pm 
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crisjacof wrote:
Took the water pump out re-installed with a new one and with no tension the belt stays right on the edge of the cams, If I put any tension what so ever, the belt start to walk out towards the fender, more the tension, the faster it does it.

Conclusion... NO IDEA WHAT'S GOING ON!!!


I think maybe then you figured it out. More tension makes it walk so maybe uhmmm you have TOO much tension on it???

Is the original spring still there for the tensioner or are you tensioning it by hand?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 1:15 pm 
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crisjacof wrote:
Hi Guys,
Well I'm back to work on my Swift.
I did the compression test again and this is what I got.

dry 220, 140, 225, 230
wet 280, 220, 250, 300

wet=2tsp of oil in the cyl. (if that's the correct way of doing it)

Took the water pump out re-installed with a new one and with no tension the belt stays right on the edge of the cams, If I put any tension what so ever, the belt start to walk out towards the fender, more the tension, the faster it does it.

Conclusion... NO IDEA WHAT'S GOING ON!!!

I do.
You've either got a bad compression gauge or time to rebuild the engine.
#2 is too low on both your tests.

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 1:51 pm 
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Well the original spring is there, and with that tension the belt stays just on the edge. if I try to adjust a little the belt starts moving.

And yes I think is time to rebuild the engine, but now its not the right time. I'll have to wait on that, and try to get more miles out of my little friend.
Thanks guys.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 7:26 pm 
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Personally, I think 220 dry and 280 on a wet test are both extreme. Make sure you're testing it right.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 7:45 pm 
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I also think your compression numbers are too high. 300psi in they 4th hole is a lot. i would recheck it with a different gauge.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 10:58 pm 
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crisjacof wrote:
Well the original spring is there, and with that tension the belt stays just on the edge. if I try to adjust a little the belt starts moving.

And yes I think is time to rebuild the engine, but now its not the right time. I'll have to wait on that, and try to get more miles out of my little friend.
Thanks guys.



So basically what your saying is that you are adding more tension to the belt after the spring has already applied the correct amount of tension? You do realize that you do not add more tension to the belt then what the spring provides?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 11:05 pm 
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TheINCRide wrote:
crisjacof wrote:
Well the original spring is there, and with that tension the belt stays just on the edge. if I try to adjust a little the belt starts moving.

And yes I think is time to rebuild the engine, but now its not the right time. I'll have to wait on that, and try to get more miles out of my little friend.
Thanks guys.



So basically what your saying is that you are adding more tension to the belt after the spring has already applied the correct amount of tension? You do realize that you do not add more tension to the belt then what the spring provides?



:goodpost:

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DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 8:01 am 
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Before I replaced the timing belt, I checked where the tensioner was(exactly right in the middle of that little plate that you move around with the spring) I had never serviced this timing belt before, so I assumed that was the correct tension.
I did put it back just with the tension of the spring, I read that somewhere. And the belt is staying on the edge of the camshaft pulleys. Good enough for me.
Now on the compression test, this is how I do it.
Take all the spark plugs out, one by one I install the tester, and crank it until it pumps five times,
On the wet test I add 2tsp of oil on each cylinder and do the same.
Is that correct? I don't know I read it somewhere also.
Thanks guys.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 9:21 am 
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Ont the test, you're also supposed to open the throttle all the way up. I think #2 still has issues but it's hard to tell how much with the other numbers being so off.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:59 am 
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crisjacof wrote:
Before I replaced the timing belt, I checked where the tensioner was(exactly right in the middle of that little plate that you move around with the spring) I had never serviced this timing belt before, so I assumed that was the correct tension.
I did put it back just with the tension of the spring, I read that somewhere. And the belt is staying on the edge of the camshaft pulleys. Good enough for me.
Now on the compression test, this is how I do it.
Take all the spark plugs out, one by one I install the tester, and crank it until it pumps five times,
On the wet test I add 2tsp of oil on each cylinder and do the same.
Is that correct? I don't know I read it somewhere also.
Thanks guys.


not only that but you remove the 'main relay' which control your ignition and fuel system, turning these two off when diong the compression test. the haynes manual gives a great how to guide.
and btw, i removed my tensioner spring. i just use slight finger pressure on my tensioner, works fine :)
weight removal, u know :razz:

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 7:08 pm 
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Have you eyeballed your cam gears to make sure they are dead straight? just a thought.
If you can't eyeball them, run a ruler agaisnt them.....

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:51 am 
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Hi guys, thanks for all the replies, finally I got it going (with the belt on the edge),
Took the car to a mechanic for a compression test, and got similar numbers +-10 psi in general.
Good news are my gas mileage increased!!! Some how I'm getting 5 more miles per gallon. 37.5 gpm to be exact.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 3:45 pm 
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Bump

I just figured out why this is happening.
It is because the little plate that tensions the idler is bent . This can happen is you over tighten the idler. Replace that and the cam belt won't wonder off the gears.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 8:07 am 
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that skewing of the belt is caused by camber at the tensioner pulley. the tensioner has to lie completely flat against the block and be square against the crank and cam pulleys.

the crank pulley has a big washer that traps the timing belt at the bottom. the belt skewing makes the belt feed off of the cam pulley(s) because that's the only place it can move. :wink:

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