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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 6:53 pm 
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I just remembered having a serious starting trouble when I first bought the GTi, it was the TPS (I did got a code though). One thing that could cause this is a missing connection between terminals C and D (idle switch) when starting. I just tried starting the car with the throttle pressed partially and all the way down (idle switch off in both cases) and I had to crank it for a long time 3 times before it started (barely).
I don't see how this could be related to your engine's starting problem, which seems to be somehow related to one it's component's temperature; but I would check the TPS just to be sure. Here's the link: Lihtan/gti/tpsadjustment.pdf

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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 8:46 am 
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Thanks for the replies guys.

My tps is fine....one of the last things I did was to loosen it a bit and try it in different (out of spec) positions. The ECU threw the relevant code but the engine still would not start.

Something is still preventing my injectors from firing during the cranking sequence....and I need to know what. :(

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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 3:17 pm 
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has anything been done with the wiring? possible the ecu is losing power while cranking?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:28 pm 
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Hey guys, I just have to jump on this thread. I am currently having the same problem as PBC137. I have a 1993 MK2 GTI, cultus intake, cultus cams and a G15A block. For the past 3 years I have only managed to drive this car for 6 months :cry: . A few months ago a friend had asked me to take him out of town and I obliged. During that trip I drove a route I have never driven before, very remote place, I was in need of gas some time into the trip but there was no petrol stations in sight, so I just drove the best way I could to conserve on petrol til I reached the nearest town. Whilst driving my friend was controlling the audio system (1200w amp 2x12' Subs with 4 farad capacitor and a Hifonics 640w playing mid and high), he had it quite a way up, never had it there before but it was a great distraction from my gas woes. Driving along I had to slow down, almost a complete stop, to maneuver a few potholes in the road and the car just shut down! :shock:

I thought the gas was so low that maybe it had shifted from the fuel pump and sucked air and stalled, however when I turned the key it started up without issue. So now I was driving way more conservative and again I had to slow for more potholes, she shut down again. So now I was thinking that maybe somehow the audio was interfering with something and causing the car to stall, so I turned off the audio. A few more miles into the journey I made a deep bend and the car back fired :o That was a definite sign that the gas was low, every corner of a certain degree had a back fire to go with it. I then saw a sign that we would be in a town shortly so I pushed my baby a little more. When we got to the town and the petrol station was in sight I got a bloody red light :x , I stopped and the car just stalled again and no magic turns of the key would get it started again. I had to push the car off the main road unto the shoulder, got some petrol, tried starting the car with no result. Held down the throttle butterfly to WOT and it started but very erratic, I could drive the car from that location to a friend's shop but only when revving over 4000rpm once I fall below that it stalls.

So we are at the garage now and the car refuses to start again, I changed the gas pump cause it should be dying if not dead, still it would not start. Ran checks for codes, only code was 12, checked for spark (got spark), checked for fuel reaching the rail (fuel was getting there), checked for injector pulse (no pulse). Took out the ECU, no visible signs of scorching, no burnt smell, still took it to a technician, he said he found something and changed it, put the ECU back in still nothing, no pulse and no start.

Towed the car back home after a week of trying to get her up and running, parked her and prayed. Just last week decided to start working on her again and she won't start, new battery and all, car turns over strong but no pulse. Decided to check for codes but when I put in a fuse in diagnostic switch and turned on ignition the Check Light does not blink :shock: So now I am lost, for some reason I am not getting an injector pulse and my Check Light is not responding.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? PBC137 have you resolved your issue as yet?

I have started stripping down the car today and will be pulling the dash tomorrow and start downing some wire tracing, also will be trying to fix the Check Light. I would like to know what could prevent me from getting an injector pulse? What components on the engine tell the ECU to fire the injectors, is it the CAS in the distributor and the coil? Where should I be looking to identify and solve problem?

Thanks a lot in advance for the help.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 10:16 am 
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Sorry for the late reply.

If you are definitely not getting injector pulse then your problem is half solved.

Check the wiring harness from the ecu wire clips right to the injector harness for continuity. Check your distributor (rotor, magnetic pick up, air-gap).

Check your tps and maf sensors.

Report back. 8)

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 12:37 pm 
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Pcb137 did you solve the problem?

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1991-GTi: JE 75mm 11:1 pistons,Ported head, Single UD pulley (OCC),Sandros chip,Aluminium flywheel,3tech 222/365 cams, Cultus headers,Cultus IM,50mm tb,Crane cams adjustable cam gears,Apex suspension, 4.39fd GB.
1989-GTi: 3Tech 210/340 Cams,Cultus IM, B&G springs, TD04L turbo, Apexi SAFC, Suzukird UD pulley, Circuitse7en dual boost controller, AEM wideband, AEM water / meth injection kit, HKS bov.
2001-Altezza AS200: Stock.-sold
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 4:32 am 
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Location: Trinidad, W.I.
I took the car to a professional auto electrician who ran a diagnostic on the ecu with his device and it is showing up as a cold start issue. Afaik, the G13b has no independent cold start sensor, but I may be wrong. Any help/ideas on this guys?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 7:36 pm 
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Well the Water temp sensor does in a way...

Teeth might be able to comment more, but the car has fuel maps for open loop (cold engine ignoring the o2 sensor) and closed loop (warm engine).

I am having an issue with mine, where when the engine is cold from sitting at night it starts easy, but after i get to work it sits all day and the afternoon sun has warmed everything up it is hard to start. Have to hold the pedal to the floor to get it to fire or it will just flood!

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:07 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
the twincam doesn't have the same type of fuel enrichment you might be thinking about but it does have the fast idle valve on the rear of the intake manifold. that amounts to a temperature controlled vacuum leak. it also has the ecu controlled iac solenoid, another part of the fast idle control system and also an induced vacuum leak.

i pulled that idle valve off my twincam and installed a blanking plate. my red vert is a summer car and doesn't need the problematic fast idle stepper. it starts up and goes directly to the base idle speed.

the best advice i can offer is to go through the diagnostic check list you will find in the factory service manual.

you may have a bad coolant temp sensor (clt) which would cause the injection system to provide poor fuel enrichment control as well as hard starting.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 11:00 pm 
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Spoke to the auto-electrician today, he said i need a water temp sensor and maf sensor as those were the two codes on the diagnostic and they would reappear every time he clears the codes. He also said the engine is over fueling badly.

I have a spare of each but unknown condition. Will swap and see.

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2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 4:52 pm 
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t3 ragtop wrote:
you may have a bad coolant temp sensor (clt) which would cause the injection system to provide poor fuel enrichment control as well as hard starting.


^^^This^^^

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1991-GTi: JE 75mm 11:1 pistons,Ported head, Single UD pulley (OCC),Sandros chip,Aluminium flywheel,3tech 222/365 cams, Cultus headers,Cultus IM,50mm tb,Crane cams adjustable cam gears,Apex suspension, 4.39fd GB.
1989-GTi: 3Tech 210/340 Cams,Cultus IM, B&G springs, TD04L turbo, Apexi SAFC, Suzukird UD pulley, Circuitse7en dual boost controller, AEM wideband, AEM water / meth injection kit, HKS bov.
2001-Altezza AS200: Stock.-sold
2003-EVO7 GT-A
Aruba "one happy island".


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 9:35 pm 
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PBC137 did you find out what was causing the starting issues?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:13 pm 
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Location: Trinidad, W.I.
Nope, and I tried everything short of changing the ignition switch. A senior tech friend at the local dealership suspects this may be the problem.

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MKIII Swift GTi - The Green Destiny!
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