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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 3:20 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:04 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Washington
Hello! I'm new here. I have a '95 Swift in which the heater fan has had some issues... bought it earlier this year with 160K and in great mechanical condition. lo speed did not work, but the others did, at first, and now all but high is dead. High speed eventually had to be wedged in position with a wad of paper to work, so I read-up and saw that it was likely the blower motor resistor, so I just replaced that. Now I have high, but no other speeds. The resistor did have a small crack in the grey stuff that coats the coils, so I went ahead and kept the new one in there. Does the resistor create the 4 speeds of fan? Is the fan motor itself possibly bad, or is it something with the selector switch, which just looks like a cable with detent positions...

Another minor issue... I sometimes smell a little antifreeze when I use the heat. For the moment I'm going to monitor antifreeze consumption, but I don't see any leaks anywhere...

I'd love some advice on the fan issue, as it is driving me a bit nutty and I don't want to start throwing parts at it...


Help?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 8:17 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:14 am
Posts: 1897
Location: Prince George B.C. Canada
Yes, the resistor controls the speeds but it sounds like the contacts in the switch may be bad. You could try spraying some non flammable electrical contact cleaner in it.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 10:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:46 pm
Posts: 809
Location: Great Falls ,Mt.
The switch is most likely the problem. They get hot and spread apart so they don't make contact anymore. Take your control cover off and squeeze the top half down to the bottom half. If your fan works when it's squeezed together you need to wrap the switch with a couple of zipties to hold it tight. There are actually some holes on the outside edges of the switch that the ties will fit through.



Ken.........


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 10:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:36 am
Posts: 885
Location: Vancouver BC
Quote:
I sometimes smell a little antifreeze when I use the heat


By the time you can smell antifreeze through your heater vents, it means you have a least one pinhole in the heater core, and the fan is circulating a aerosolized mix of air and ethylene glycol into your lungs. This is dangerous, especially to your kidneys. Get it fixed.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 12:10 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:04 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Washington
91 ragtop wrote:
The switch is most likely the problem. They get hot and spread apart so they don't make contact anymore. Take your control cover off and squeeze the top half down to the bottom half. If your fan works when it's squeezed together you need to wrap the switch with a couple of zipties to hold it tight. There are actually some holes on the outside edges of the switch that the ties will fit through.

Ken.........


where is the switch? is it the lever to select the fan speed? Please let me know where it's located and ill check it out...

THANKS!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 12:15 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:04 pm
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Location: Washington
suzukitom wrote:
Quote:
I sometimes smell a little antifreeze when I use the heat


By the time you can smell antifreeze through your heater vents, it means you have a least one pinhole in the heater core, and the fan is circulating a aerosolized mix of air and ethylene glycol into your lungs. This is dangerous, especially to your kidneys. Get it fixed.



Is the heater core difficult to replace? Last heater core I did was in an old '82 626 and it was a nightmare!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 2:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:14 am
Posts: 1897
Location: Prince George B.C. Canada
It depends on your comfort level. It's a full day job for an average person with a mechanical mind if you have never done one. You may be able to get away with leaving the top dash mounts in place and only removing the lower and mid mounts. That should let you push the dash out enough at the bottom to pull the heater box but it may still be a tight fit. I haven't done a Mk4 heater core... yet (knock on wood).

If you now only have high with a wedge, it may be a combination of switch and resistors.

The odour may be an old problem that was fixed but not cleaned up. The PO may have fixed a leaking core but didn't remove the spilled coolant from the carpet.

Do the switch and resistors then keep an eye on your coolant loss (if you have any).

If you're not losing coolant, have your carpets cleaned or replace them, which-ever suits you.

Don't spend the time and money on a heater core that isn't leaking now. If you're not losing coolant (no damp areas under the heater, not topping up the reservoir/rad), then the core isn't leaking.

Also, you may be pulling in fumes from the engine compartment from a coolant loss under the hood. The intake for the heater is behind the hood.


That's my 2 pennies worth.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:04 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Washington
top down@-40 wrote:
It depends on your comfort level. It's a full day job for an average person with a mechanical mind if you have never done one. You may be able to get away with leaving the top dash mounts in place and only removing the lower and mid mounts. That should let you push the dash out enough at the bottom to pull the heater box but it may still be a tight fit. I haven't done a Mk4 heater core... yet (knock on wood).

If you now only have high with a wedge, it may be a combination of switch and resistors.

The odour may be an old problem that was fixed but not cleaned up. The PO may have fixed a leaking core but didn't remove the spilled coolant from the carpet.

Do the switch and resistors then keep an eye on your coolant loss (if you have any).

If you're not losing coolant, have your carpets cleaned or replace them, which-ever suits you.

Don't spend the time and money on a heater core that isn't leaking now. If you're not losing coolant (no damp areas under the heater, not topping up the reservoir/rad), then the core isn't leaking.

Also, you may be pulling in fumes from the engine compartment from a coolant loss under the hood. The intake for the heater is behind the hood.


That's my 2 pennies worth.



Thanks for the response! I will check those items out... Two items to clarify:
1. I only notice the coolant smell when the heater is on (more than 1/2 way) and the PO yanked all the carpet from the front of the car (hyper-miler)
2. THe high setting on the fan came back when I replaced the blower motor resistor.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 6:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:04 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Washington
Bosazga wrote:
top down@-40 wrote:
It depends on your comfort level. It's a full day job for an average person with a mechanical mind if you have never done one. You may be able to get away with leaving the top dash mounts in place and only removing the lower and mid mounts. That should let you push the dash out enough at the bottom to pull the heater box but it may still be a tight fit. I haven't done a Mk4 heater core... yet (knock on wood).

If you now only have high with a wedge, it may be a combination of switch and resistors.

The odour may be an old problem that was fixed but not cleaned up. The PO may have fixed a leaking core but didn't remove the spilled coolant from the carpet.

Do the switch and resistors then keep an eye on your coolant loss (if you have any).

If you're not losing coolant, have your carpets cleaned or replace them, which-ever suits you.

Don't spend the time and money on a heater core that isn't leaking now. If you're not losing coolant (no damp areas under the heater, not topping up the reservoir/rad), then the core isn't leaking.

Also, you may be pulling in fumes from the engine compartment from a coolant loss under the hood. The intake for the heater is behind the hood.


That's my 2 pennies worth.



Thanks for the response! I will check those items out... Two items to clarify:
1. I only notice the coolant smell when the heater is on (more than 1/2 way) and the PO yanked all the carpet from the front of the car (hyper-miler)
2. THe high setting on the fan came back when I replaced the blower motor resistor.



Just went outside and see that:
1. My reservoir is low
2. There's antifreeze on my floor beneath the center of the dash

Looks like I'm doing a heater core repair!
ANY INPUT / INSTRUCTION HELPS, FOLKS! :cry:

Greg


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:36 am
Posts: 885
Location: Vancouver BC
There are some good write ups on geometroforum.com on Mk4/5 heater core removal. It is a complex job, more so if you have A/C.

This Youtube video may be a little hard to follow, but gives you an idea of what some folks encountered, which made the job even harder when they tried to avoid removing the dash before replacing the heater core.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDKLXqB0320


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:04 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Washington
suzukitom wrote:
There are some good write ups on geometroforum.com on Mk4/5 heater core removal. It is a complex job, more so if you have A/C.

This Youtube video may be a little hard to follow, but gives you an idea of what some folks encountered, which made the job even harder when they tried to avoid removing the dash before replacing the heater core.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDKLXqB0320



I could not find a video but will check out the other forum… Thanks I will be attempting The repair this coming weekend


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 8:27 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 7:26 am
Posts: 16
Location: Earlsboro, Oklahoma
Our 95 Swift suffered a A/C or Heater blower failure yesterday on the way to Oklahoma City. It was another 80% humidity day and it was a hot trip up and back...Anyway, read up on this forum thread and went out and pulled the glove box cover off...reached in and felt the blower control and squeezed it together and the fan came on immediately...So, got a couple of plastic ties and wrapped them around the housing like instructed..It works fine now...It took about an hour to disassemble the glove box and wiggle around enough to get the ties in place...Kind of a tight squeeze..but it probably saved me hundreds of $$...So I THANK YOU all for the info..


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